When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There any downside to just removing the factory connectors entirely and replacing them with something a bit easier to work with? These connectors are a massive PITA. I can get the wires out ok for the most part but getting the new wires back in is horrid. By the third wire i was ready to blow the bike up and I have like 14 more to go.
I'm tempted to just get the wires out of both sides of the connector and rewire on a simpler connector. Any legit reason *not* to do this?
There any downside to just removing the factory connectors entirely and replacing them with something a bit easier to work with? These connectors are a massive PITA. I can get the wires out ok for the most part but getting the new wires back in is horrid. By the third wire i was ready to blow the bike up and I have like 14 more to go.
I'm tempted to just get the wires out of both sides of the connector and rewire on a simpler connector. Any legit reason *not* to do this?
None that I know of. Go with any good connector, just make sure to keep the wiring straight.
would depend on the year of bike, if it is a canbus system you could cause massive problems as some of the wires have a dual purpose and have a date stream passing though them beside the current . If your bike is pre canbus it shold not be a problem
....I'm tempted to just get the wires out of both sides of the connector and rewire on a simpler connector. Any legit reason *not* to do this?
As long as what you come up with doesn't compromise the protectiveness of the original connector against the elements.
Just make sure the connectors you source have the highest IP rating you can get to prevent moisture ingress. I sourced and used some IP 68 ones recently for the Drag Specialities LED tail light I fitted instead of cutting and splicing the wiring. If you make a good termination and do not alter the resistance value of the circuit, canbus or not, it will not make any difference. The ones depicted below were the solder variety.
I get how to do the halo. It can be white or orange on mine. The orange light is for the blinker but I don't get which blinker wires to hook it to. I'd like it to blink for safety reasons when wither turn signal is used. So the red extra wire gets to wait. Or was it the green. But I have the daylight running light as amber(orange) and the two wires that hang out are the two colors..there's a video of extending the wire you want and wrapping it around the low beam prong before plugging the three prong into the corresponding socket that matches. The center prong is the low beam. Just remember not to touch the wire to more than one prong when power is on. Jeeet..or zap!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.