Hi,
I am having a charging system issue with my 2005 FLHRCI. I first noticed there was a potential issue when I was riding at night a few times and noticed my headlamp brightness varied greatly at different RPMS. Then a few rides later I went to start my bike and battery was dead. Sorry to say I didnt do any testing at this time and just assumed I had a bad battery so ordered a new battery and replaced it which solved the varying headlight brightness issue but a few rides later I discovered I had a charging issue because the new battery was also dead.
I then started testing the charging system and discovered the following:
-I was only getting around 12.5 volts at battery while bike was running regardless of varying rpms instead of the 13-15volts I was expecting to see in order for battery to charge
-disconnected stator from regulator and tested//My stator was putting out the correct AC voltages at various rpms and did not have any shorts.(also opened the service cover on the primary and gave it a whiff. everything smelled fine. No electrical burning smell)

these tests led me to believe I had a bad regulator which made perfect sense to me considering my bike is an 05 with 30k miles on it.
without performing any other tests I replaced the regulator certain this would fix my problem but as you have already guessed it did not. I am still only getting 12.5 volts to my battery when bike is running.
I then disconnected the cable coming out of the regulator going to the battery and tested voltage there and was getting the well over 14volts at this point in the system so it looks to me like my stator is putting out the correct AC voltage and my regulator is putting out the correct DC voltage but it is not making it to the battery.
I traced wiring far enough to know that the wire leaves the rectifier/regulator and then makes its way to the 40amp fuse and then to the starter and then to the battery (i think?).
the fuse test fine and when i test voltage at the starter I am only seeing the 12.5 volts. I have confirmed all my grounds are clean and secure and dont know where to look next.
So i guess my question is, what exactly is the route/path once the cable leaves the regulator? Is it only the 40amp fuse and starter between the regulator and battery? where/what should I test next.
(Ill add that I have not had the "new" battery load tested yet only because it seems to take a charge fine from the trickle charger, just not taking a charge from the bike. I say "new" battery only because it has died a few times now which may have affected it but again, I dont think it has because it is charging fine from the trickle charger. Its an AGM battery, not a lithium or anything like that)
that being said, I will have it load tested anyway mainly because I am at a loss and dont know what to test next.
All and any suggestions are greatly appreciated!!
Thanks!!

 

well, will throw this out there, would have to see if i have the info on your model.
i had the same issue but not on an hd. the issue turned out to be a bad socket for the blade fuse.
here is a killer, never figured this one out but i actually got a negative out put from the regulator. i am pretty sure if ref'd the meter to correct ground point but if i didn't possible to see such because you can see a negative from a positive source or correctly said less positive source. never know since the issue was fixed.

 

 

 

Do a double check at 2000 rpm (test rpm) at the battery to the lead and to the wire. Sounds like you have a bad cable.

Rev. 03-29-17

Some electrical 101 and a little more..



Remember, the best made brand new battery that has been on a maintenance charger for 3 days that has a loose or bad connection is no better then a boat anchor with a loose rope. The connection can get loose after one ride if the battery is not anchored and the wires are short and get tugged in a direction that can unscrew the bolts.



After a good 24+ hour maintenance low amperage (never over 2 amp) charge, with the charge light in the solid green and the battery has set about 24 hours off charge, voltage should be about 12.8 volts.

You can speed up this process by turning on the ignition key (headlight comes on) for ~3 seconds and then switch it back off. This is enough of a load to bleed off the excess residual charge from the charger and then you can measure the battery voltage.



12.8 = fully charged

12.6 = 75% charged

12.3 = 50% charged (Lot of new modern cars with system protection will not even click at this point but will have good headlight beams showing)

12.0 =25% charged



Always check both the terminals at the battery lead and also at the terminal on the wire. That helps to verify connection. With a DC volt meter (one that has a feature to lock high and low reading is best) hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm, voltage should read around 14.8 volts. The 2000 rpm is the bench mark standard. Ignore idle output. Ignore output above 2000rpm unless it exceeds 14.9 volts. That is a sure indication that regulator is bad.



The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on, it will never drop back much. If you have a lot of options, most modern bikes will not show 14.8 charging volts at idle but stock newer bikes will be close. Older bikes with lower amperage output not so much. However, 2000 rpm is the bench mark for the standard 14.8 volts.



If the voltage is only about 13 volt DC at 2000 RPM, the AC volts stator may be shorted or bad. Unlike the regulator, this is an easy check with an AC meter. Check that the two or three legs do not go to frame ground and that the ohm resistance across all combinations of checks are within an ohm of what is called out in the service manual. Also check the AC volts coming from them at 2000 rpm.

Be cautious here since you can kill yourself with this much AC volts. You need a service manual or look you spec up on line for your unique bike. I have seen about 3 verations over the last 20 years of Harleys due to ever increasing output.



If you think battery is good and something is draining it sitting, now would be a good time to check for drain problems. Go to Harbor Freight and get you a AC/DC meter for under $25 or so. http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html Make sure it has DC amps draw, DC voltage, resistance and AC voltage. Key off. Remove the negative cable off the battery. Set meter on DC amps. Hook the meter lead to cable and the other to battery. !!Key off.do not turn on!! Ignore that first draw as the alarm trims back and stuff charges for 1 minute. Now, how many milliamps (mA) is it drawing? It should be no more then 6 mA which is the ECM (1), speedometer (1), tac, TSSM (1), HFSM (1) and voltage regulator (1)





When a battery wears out, a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger unless it is a newer one that says safe with this type of battery. Also, by taking battery out you now know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Be forwarned, these checks quite often are incorrect due to the low amperage of these small batteries and junk checking equipment. If bike is charging, no load on battery when key is off and you are still having problems…REPLACE THE BATTERY. If battery is more then 3-4 years old.. REPLACE THE BATTERY.



Using the maintenance charger can get more years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back with a bang, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. Even then, if it grunts most ever start, I would replace it. Most battery checkers at AutoZone and places like that do not do really well on the low amperage setting on small batteries. Not sure why but they tend to say they are OK when they are weak. If they have one that fits your bike, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any for one third to half the money of a Harley Battery. My last 4 years befor it started grunting. And out it came. Do not put an old fashion one with vent tubes on a modern TC Harley. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery except in a real emergency. If a bike battery is down and you jump it, throwing all that amps to it from a big car battery especially one that is running can wreck a bike regulator or charging system. Charging a worn out battery can kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably ending in a big dollar repair in parts alone.



It is also a good idea to always check your battery at 2000 RPM with your meter set to AC. If by chance, the regulator goes bad, sometimes it will let AC come thru. That is a sure sign of a bad regulator.Older 2 wire stators have a single-phase output while the newer stators with 3 wires have a 3 phase output. The 3 phase system provides a more consistent and higher current output to the voltage regulator. The voltage regulator takes the AC from the alternator, rectifies it to DC and limits the voltage level to the battery depending on the voltage reading it gets back from the battery.



Also remember, when starting a Harley, hit the starter and hold it in till it is firing on both cylinders and running before letting up. If you let up before it’s running, quiet often, it actually take an FI motor longer to start. There is a fraction of a second more for a long stroke Harley then a multi-cylinder car for it to get going. If you do not do this, it will kick back with a bang, sneeze thru the intake or crank a lot longer the second time or shame on you the third time. Also, if you have a habit of doing this, the starter solenoid switch contact will only have half the life it could. You cannot hurt the starter. The starter gear has a sprag clutch. There are drive pins in it that as the gas motor catches and run, it outruns the starter motor drive and disengages it from the electric motor. If you hold it in a little too long and listen carefully, you will hear the sprag clutch run up the ramps and slip. Makes a sizzle hum. This will show you your starter sprag clutch is OK.



My batteries:

11-05-03 Originial Harley 3 years

08-07-06 Harley 6.5 years (nursed way too long and was grunting and banging often)

04-29-13 Walmart Ever Start 4 years (grunting)

03-25-17 AutoZone Duralast Gold