Lights
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
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From: Ohio
Lights
Have 1986 FLHT, the ignition switch has three positions. Ignition, lights & accessories. The way I read the manual the headlight is designed to come on in ignition position, but not any other lights. When turned to lights position the remaining lights would work. When my switch is in the ignition position all lights come on, they do not go off when the start button is engaged as the starter relay is supposed to temporarily take the power from lights. I have installed new starter relays several times as they start sticking or clicking.
Is my interpretation of how switch works wrong??
All turn signals, flashers and brake lights work. But when running the volt meter gauge bounces from 13 to 8 every time flashers blink or when brake is applied it drops until released.
Is this normal??
Is my interpretation of how switch works wrong??
All turn signals, flashers and brake lights work. But when running the volt meter gauge bounces from 13 to 8 every time flashers blink or when brake is applied it drops until released.
Is this normal??
Last edited by Poa; Mar 3, 2019 at 11:53 PM.
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no, the lights will not turn off when the starter is engaged.
off: nothing connected
acc: power to acc circuit, handles horn, running light/park if installed, oil pressure light, etc
ign: power to acc, ign circuit, ign circuit is jumped to lights circuit
on: power to acc circuit,ign circuit, lights circuit
sounds like a bad connection. this is not normal. rule out the battery by load testing. then grounds and then wiring resistance. the machine will primarily run off the regulator output with the battery making up the short fall and since the voltage drops, the regulator cannot supply enough current, that said, i am leaning towards the battery side issue.
off: nothing connected
acc: power to acc circuit, handles horn, running light/park if installed, oil pressure light, etc
ign: power to acc, ign circuit, ign circuit is jumped to lights circuit
on: power to acc circuit,ign circuit, lights circuit
sounds like a bad connection. this is not normal. rule out the battery by load testing. then grounds and then wiring resistance. the machine will primarily run off the regulator output with the battery making up the short fall and since the voltage drops, the regulator cannot supply enough current, that said, i am leaning towards the battery side issue.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
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From: Ohio
Road Warrior thank you for response.
In listing ignition position you did not list LIGHTS. What is purpose of this position? I have much of electrical disconnected at this time so can not just test position. Is it to operate lights and such, but not allow starter to engage?
Is it normal for all running lights like fender tips, tour pack and head light to come on when switch is turned to ignition position. I read where the head light turning on appears to be part of a safety function, but should all other lights turn on as well?
If so, what is purpose of the Lights position on switch?
I am checking connections for every wire is why I have it apart, as have been told a poor connection could cause my volt meter to bounce each time direction signals or hazards used. Stays in discharge as long as brakes applied. That to me indicates a short or poor connection. Not sure about that. Battery is new.
Have had to replace starter relay several times, but been told that is not unusual. That really doesn't make since if HD knows something is burning up relay.
In listing ignition position you did not list LIGHTS. What is purpose of this position? I have much of electrical disconnected at this time so can not just test position. Is it to operate lights and such, but not allow starter to engage?
Is it normal for all running lights like fender tips, tour pack and head light to come on when switch is turned to ignition position. I read where the head light turning on appears to be part of a safety function, but should all other lights turn on as well?
If so, what is purpose of the Lights position on switch?
I am checking connections for every wire is why I have it apart, as have been told a poor connection could cause my volt meter to bounce each time direction signals or hazards used. Stays in discharge as long as brakes applied. That to me indicates a short or poor connection. Not sure about that. Battery is new.
Have had to replace starter relay several times, but been told that is not unusual. That really doesn't make since if HD knows something is burning up relay.
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do you have the electrical schematic?
if you look at the switch circuit, you will see that the ign circuit and lights are jumped together. there is no lighting relay although, i wish hd did have a cut out circuit, helps when the battery is starting to go.
if you look at the switch circuit, you will see that the ign circuit and lights are jumped together. there is no lighting relay although, i wish hd did have a cut out circuit, helps when the battery is starting to go.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Wrong schematic
My bike is a 1986 FLHT, I have a schematic for it from the manual. Took the schematic pages to Staples and they scanned them and printed them out the size of blue prints, 24 x 36 inches. All wires appear to be correct.
My switch has four positions, off, ignition, lights and accessories.
My switch has four positions, off, ignition, lights and accessories.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
Likes: 1
From: Ohio
Yes I have schematic. Took them to Staples and they scanned and printed them out on 24 x 36 inch sheets.
I agree they show jumper wire and mine is wired according to schematic. Just read somewhere that the starter relay short circuited the feed to lights and such when starter was engaged to allow full power to starter. I clearly have misread and understood it.
I agree they show jumper wire and mine is wired according to schematic. Just read somewhere that the starter relay short circuited the feed to lights and such when starter was engaged to allow full power to starter. I clearly have misread and understood it.
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negative
the lights will dim because the starter draws a ton of current but they are not disconnected.
it appears that the power is tapped off the battery and not like other hd models off the starter solenoid stud. this is the starting point.
where exactly are your test points?
the lights will dim because the starter draws a ton of current but they are not disconnected.
it appears that the power is tapped off the battery and not like other hd models off the starter solenoid stud. this is the starting point.
where exactly are your test points?
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From: Utah
Yes I have schematic. Took them to Staples and they scanned and printed them out on 24 x 36 inch sheets.
I agree they show jumper wire and mine is wired according to schematic. Just read somewhere that the starter relay short circuited the feed to lights and such when starter was engaged to allow full power to starter. I clearly have misread and understood it.
I agree they show jumper wire and mine is wired according to schematic. Just read somewhere that the starter relay short circuited the feed to lights and such when starter was engaged to allow full power to starter. I clearly have misread and understood it.
This is a difficult set of schematics to follow, I have to go from page to page on my iPad.
Look at the Ignition switch and follow the Orange wire from Accessory lug, to connector 9, sheet 1 of 2. Go to sheet 2 of 2 and you see the O goes to stud 30 on the starter relay. 30 must be the common and 87A with TN feeds the Accessory CB when the starter relay is off. Energize the starter relay and the NC contact opens and the Accessory power from the switch goes to the starter solenoid.
Follow the O wires from the Accessory CB and you'll see the brake switches & passing lamps are powered by the O.
As far as your meter showing lower voltage when signals are on, hook a Voltmeter on the battery positive, (use the lug on the starter) while engine is running. If it shows low too check your charging system and battery.
Last edited by Vernal; Mar 5, 2019 at 11:39 AM.