Speedometer/Dash Issue After Tank Removal
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 322
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From: Manchester, NH
Speedometer/Dash Issue After Tank Removal
So I had my tank off to swap the bars on my 02 Fatboy, now the speedometer keeps just shutting off, the needle freezes in position, I can sometimes whack it on the side with my hand and it springs to life, other times it comes back itself, thinking a loose connection but I've pulled the console twice and I'll be damned if I can find anything loose, when it happens the turn signals, brake and headlights dont work, but the bike runs fine, I'm at a loss, anyone run into this before? When I took the tank off all I disconnected was the gas gauge, the console I just rested on the frame while I did the bars.
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So I had my tank off to swap the bars on my 02 Fatboy, now the speedometer keeps just shutting off, the needle freezes in position, I can sometimes whack it on the side with my hand and it springs to life, other times it comes back itself, thinking a loose connection but I've pulled the console twice and I'll be damned if I can find anything loose, when it happens the turn signals, brake and headlights dont work, but the bike runs fine, I'm at a loss, anyone run into this before? When I took the tank off all I disconnected was the gas gauge, the console I just rested on the frame while I did the bars.
Your description of turns signals, brake and headlights not working makes diagnostic difficult from a distance.
Perhaps if you could be a bit more precise in description.
For example:
Do you mean turn signals do not shut off after turn completion or do they never light up and never flash at front and they never flash at rear?
Reason-The turn signal completion of cycle requires a speedometer signal.
Do you mean brake light does not turn "ON" with brake application or perhaps you forgot to put cardboard to protect brake light switch at lever at handlebar during handlebar swap?
Reason-Your bike has a running light for the tail light and a brake light. Sometimes the switch at hand brake lever is disrupted or tip of switch is broken and this causes brake light to stay ON and some times people think brake light is not tuning ON but in fact it is stuck in the ON position.
In regards to "headlights" not working...Does your bike have TWO headlights?, is it the high beam or low beam or both that do not work?
Reason-trying to figure out what you have, factory stock or some kind of after market.
From a distance and based on information provided i think there might be two problems.
1- Review brake light switch.
2-Review for a short at handlebar wires.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 322
Likes: 12
From: Manchester, NH
Stock single headlight, all lights function normal as long as the odometer/speedometer functional, when it shuts off so do the lights, turn signals dont light up at all when it happens, handlebar wiring was extended with HD extension harnesses, plug and play, stock connectors were in perfect shape, no corrosion, loose terminals etc. Stop light switch is brand new, while everything was apart I rebuilt the front master cylinder and replaced the brake light switch as the previous owner did not use the cardboard or any other spacer to protect it while changing levers, he had RTV or JB weld or something on it to try to build up the broken switch nose.
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 322
Likes: 12
From: Manchester, NH
Force of habit, I'm a fleet mechanic for a utility company, sometimes whacking the crap out of things fixes it LOL
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Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Arkansas
The a look at the main harness near the left hand controls disconnect, there may be some chafing causing a short or an open there, all of the symptoms you described all go through that section of the main harness. See https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...RING%20HARNESS and you'll see what I mean, the ignition switch wiring goes through there as well but may not be impacted.
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 322
Likes: 12
From: Manchester, NH
The a look at the main harness near the left hand controls disconnect, there may be some chafing causing a short or an open there, all of the symptoms you described all go through that section of the main harness. See https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche...RING%20HARNESS and you'll see what I mean, the ignition switch wiring goes through there as well but may not be impacted.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Bedford UK
It is an unfortunate fact that we have a steady trickle of members with electrical problems, after changing handlebars, especially if extended and/or internal wires are involved! It is very likely that your problem has it's origins either in your extended wiring, or directly associated work. So before going off at a tangent, very carefully go back over your work, to ensure there are no wiring continuity problems, trapped or damaged wires, defective grounds, poor connections, etc. Patience and a clear head are a good starting point!
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Tourer
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Manchester, NH
It is an unfortunate fact that we have a steady trickle of members with electrical problems, after changing handlebars, especially if extended and/or internal wires are involved! It is very likely that your problem has it's origins either in your extended wiring, or directly associated work. So before going off at a tangent, very carefully go back over your work, to ensure there are no wiring continuity problems, trapped or damaged wires, defective grounds, poor connections, etc. Patience and a clear head are a good starting point!
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From: Bedford UK
If we keep this alive, you may be lucky when someone fresh passes by with the solution! There was a similar thread recently, which proved to be a poorly crimped connector pin - which gives an idea of the little things that can go wrong - or not quite right!
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