Hot ignition switch
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
Update: While my bike was in the shop for some unrelated work, the mechanic said he was unable to start my bike. I went down there and after wiggling the switch, I was able to start it. Later, when I rode it home, I drove up to the garage, and shut it off. A few minutes later, it would not start. I suspected it was the switch again. I removed the console and found that the black wire was charred and that part of the 3-way plastic connector had melted. The other two red wires were intact. This issue had apparently been going on for some time, as evident by the over heating of the switch. I never did smell anything burning. I am now waiting for a new switch to arrive in the mail. Nothing else appears to be compromised, except that it will not start. None of the lights in the dash indicator will light up. A possible culprit could be those show lights that the previous owner installed, but I can't be sure, however, I don't ride with them on. They are only for show in the garage.
Club Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Beyond Fucital
Just an FYI, heat in anything electrical home or auto is not a short it's arching, AKA a bad connection, and will not blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker.
But could cause a fire, that's about the when time the fuse/breaker blows.
But could cause a fire, that's about the when time the fuse/breaker blows.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 433
From: Arkansas
Hot switch would indicate high resistance in the switch or contacts to the switch, if you cannot start the bike and jiggle of the switch is the fix then switch internal contacts are the likely culprit, remove the switch, remove the circlip on the back and carefully remove the plastic keeping in mind that there are three contacts with springs under there, look at the contacts and the board and see if there is built up corrosion or arcing damage in there. Clean it up and put some dielectric grease in there before you put it back together, you may want to do the same on your 2006 as well. I have a 2005 and had so much issues with my switch that I had to replace it. When I ordered my switch I gave the key number located on the metal part of the key under the black plastic and my switch was keyed correctly for me.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
I took the old switch apart and found that the area inside the switch, where the "C" (red/gray wire) is connected, was scorched. The other two wires (A & B) were not affected. About one inch of the wire outside the switch was also scorched. I can't tell if the issue began inside the switch, or in the wiring outside. I used a multi meter to check the ignition fuse in the the electrical panel and it had continuity. I have not tested the start relay yet, so I don't know if anything else was affected. I will now need to cut off about two inches of the red/gray wire connected to the female spade connector, but I have not been able to match the gauge size. I looked in the service manual but the wiring diagrams do not show the gauge. Would anyone know where to find that info, or what wire gauge it uses? Thx.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
The replacement ignition switch came in today and I installed it. Now, I am not getting a single thing to go on. Not a light and not a sound. Everything is off. I tested the starter relay as per the manual, it appears to be bad. My question is, even with the relay being bad, wouldn't at least the head lights or the dash still go on? is something else not working correctly? I double checked that wires to the switch were on correctly. Suggestions?
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 777
Likes: 45
From: Beaumont, Ca
I could not give it a rest. I tested relay terminal 30 for 12V, and since it did not have power, I went back to the ignition switch. I found that B terminal in the back of the switch had not fully seated. I fixed that, and now that bike works like a champ. Hooray for the manual. So now, we know, that a single terminal, which in this case was the middle one (B) on the switch, can affect the entire ignition system.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,414
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From: Arkansas
Pin B is the power input to the switch. If you replaced the terminal ensure you installed a locking spade connector such as factory and not just any spade connector as it'll push out of the connector when you install it on the switch.
