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On post 18 I have a pic of the way it was set up but the only difference was the way each post was wound. The factory wind was in a clockwise rotation on the post.. I wound it in a counterclockwise rotation (because it made transitioning to the next post much easier) on the post which shouldn't make any difference at all as long as it's always going the same direction on each post.. I'm not an engineer but I'm just connecting it back up the same way I disconnected it as shown in post 18... What sucks is that I ran short of wire so now I got to take one phase back off and get more wire and redo it. 4 damn feet... Dang... I do know that when I test it on the bike I will not have the regulator hooked up I'm going to check my AC voltages first and if I'm up there around 43, 46 volts a/c at 2000 rpm, I think I'll be fine... I called the manufacturer of the wire and they actually said that they don't see any issues with heat I told them my application and they said I was really good to go there so thermal breakdown won't be an issue with this...
you do not need to undo the winding. if you silver solder the extension wire and insulate it, you will be good to go. as a final touch up, you can have the entire stator dipped into some insulating varnish. offshore in the salt environment, we had i generators winding done that way, also great to keep oil vapors off. you can buy insulating varnish in a rattle can or from a rewind shop. on the jump arounds,i would have put some sleeving material on it to protect from vibration and thermal movement. you can get it from a rewind shop or a place that repairs ovens.
looking GOOD.
Interesting thread, something you don't see everyday.
Just an observation, I have two old stators laying around. Both for the same bike. One is a thick wire like the stuff you are working with (OEM stator), and the other is a thinner wire with many more wraps per post (an old NOS made in usa custom chrome). It looks like a double wrap of thinner wire. Almost like instead of one thick wire, they used two thinner wires. The thinner wire looks "doubled up".
I wonder if the thinner wire with more wraps per post would be easier to work worth. Nice thread. YD
a jpeg of the stator would be nice.
also which machine it was used on.
on the old shovels, the stator was a dual wind
1. main power winding
2. excitor winding
there was a special regulator used for it. this was not a pmg of sorts, more alternator type since out put was controlled by the excitor winding. similar to the generators that used field coil current to increase output, even though it put out dc current, it was an ac machine, the segments on the armature acted like diodes that clipped the ac positive components to a dc.
I believe Cycle Electric also uses the dual wound wire on their 32 a Evo stators... I called them on it and they told me that It helps with low rpm output..
The original box was crumbling and got tossed a few years back, but if it was the wrong fitment/part # I never would have kept it.
Note the surface rust from the old styrofoam packing in the original box. "Replaces" part number 29970-88. I also have a NOS regulator (same brand-custom chrome) that came with it and has the original box, and that one says "for 1988 and up evo big twins". So I feel pretty confident the parts are evo era correct. Actually these parts were given to me by a forum member as he was "cleaning house" and getting rid of his old stuff. It was very generous of him, all I had to do was pay shipping and I try to "pay it forward" with members here when I can.
Anyways, not trying to steal a thread, just wanted to comment about the thinner wrapped stator. Again, great thread. YD
you can use a chemical stripper but i just use a lighter and burn the end and the enamel comes right off, the a scotch brite rub, good to go, even with angel wire.
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