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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
A simple set of S&S .583's in that 103" will pop more low-mid power than that H-D combo.
107" @ 10.0 cr, S&S .570's, decent heads, 58mm t/body with a good exhaust, tuned, is a GOOD combination.
Scott
Always a wealth of information.
Thanks for your input.
Sure, in a lighter machine the low end delivery is not quite a critical.
Same/same for the late power on the famed/fabled 120R.
Low-mid torque is what most folks want/need.
Scott
You will not see much TQ down low and won't see respectable TQ until you pass 3000rpms; see the attached dyno chart of a Stage IV Race Kit. Bear in mind that this bike was tuned by a dealer and another independent dyno operator before this tuner (one of the best in the country) got his hands on it. Those charts were much worse and the bike was no fun to ride; it was a turd.
If you want torque down low, plant to tour/ride two up 60%-70% of the time; IMHO, you should abandon the Stage IV kit plan. Save yourself some money and bolt in a set of SE255 cams, replace the inner cam bearings, upgrade to the billet plate and pump, replace the lifters with S&S standards get the bike in the hands of a good tuner and get it tuned. You will have TQ off idle but the SE255s will be all in at about 4500. I really don't think you will spend much time up around 5500 rpms. JMHO.
I have dyno sheets of Stage I 103s bumped up with a set of 255s; if interested, I will have to look for one but if interested, let me know and I will post one and you can compare.
That chart shows a torque dip/softness right where the OP says he wants good power. Not good, especially considering it is after a tune by Lozano Bros.
djl - It seems like he could get close to your suggested build using all HD parts and therefore retaining his warranty.
Edit: Removed due to gracious correction by Oldhippie: "Too bad about having to use the inferior HD inner cam bearings vs Torringtons, but should be okay until the warranty is up?" Sorry for the misinformation
255s in a '14 up is a complete waste of time/money. The stock cams are better than 255s. SE cam bearings are torringtons. While I'm not a fan of SE kits, the key to decent performance with the stage 4 legal kit is getting it tuned properly. Dealer ain't gonna do that... Good luck.
255s in a '14 up is a complete waste of time/money. The stock cams are better than 255s. SE cam bearings are torringtons. While I'm not a fan of SE kits, the key to decent performance with the stage 4 legal kit is getting it tuned properly. Dealer ain't gonna do that... Good luck.
Really? Painting with a very broad brush don't you think? Considering the 255 has an earlier intake close and more lift; not sure how you come to the conclusion that the "new" Rushmore cam set is better than the 255. I would think that would also be application specific and a guy that tours a lot, two up, loaded and maybe pulling a trailer would be better off with the 255 but that's JMHO.
I am upgrading my 2015 street glide with a SE stage 4 legal kit. I already have V&H 2 in1 with rhineharts and a SE heavy breather. I also plan on adding the SE cam plate support with high volume oil pump, SE high capacity oil pan, larger injectors, roller rockers and upgraded cam bearings. Then A trip to the dyno. To the engine builders out there are these extras overkill?
Can someone explain this exhaust to me? Is it a V&H header and Rinehart muffler?
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