'03 TC88 Cam Selection help please
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Novice
Joined: Dec 2012
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From: SE Michigan
'03 TC88 Cam Selection help please
I have an '03 Road King, TC88, Carb w/stage 1. 19,9K miles
I just pulled the timing cover and found the cam tensioner pads almost worn through. So, I need to replace the cam tensioner pads at a minimum.
I have a certified harley Technician who will be performing the work. While the cam tensioners pads are being upgraded he suggested installing camshafts as well.
He is recommending SE 211's.
Well, after reading several post on several websites my head is spinning!
I think the SE 211's are too much for my set-up. I think a SE 204 would be a better choice. I want an increase in power from 1500rpm to around 4000rpm.
My riding style is 80% solo, back roads, some freeway. The motor spends most of its time at 2000rpm to 3000rpm. Even from stoplights I will usually shift around 4500rpm at most.
What are your thoughts on a cam choice?
Thanks in advance
I just pulled the timing cover and found the cam tensioner pads almost worn through. So, I need to replace the cam tensioner pads at a minimum.
I have a certified harley Technician who will be performing the work. While the cam tensioners pads are being upgraded he suggested installing camshafts as well.
He is recommending SE 211's.
Well, after reading several post on several websites my head is spinning!
I think the SE 211's are too much for my set-up. I think a SE 204 would be a better choice. I want an increase in power from 1500rpm to around 4000rpm.
My riding style is 80% solo, back roads, some freeway. The motor spends most of its time at 2000rpm to 3000rpm. Even from stoplights I will usually shift around 4500rpm at most.
What are your thoughts on a cam choice?
Thanks in advance
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 24
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From: SE Michigan
I think the Harley Tech is trying sell some of his used stuff. The SE 211's he has are used cams. I'm not real excited about that.
Why the ignition upgrade for a mild bolt in cam? I can see if it where a hotter cam.
The Andrews seems like the way to go.
OR do I just leave it stock? He is pushing a cam since all the parts have to be removed to upgrade the cam tensor pads, so why not throw a set of cams in? I get it, but that also means more money for the cams, carb kit and dyne time.
Thanks for your suggestions
Why the ignition upgrade for a mild bolt in cam? I can see if it where a hotter cam.
The Andrews seems like the way to go.
OR do I just leave it stock? He is pushing a cam since all the parts have to be removed to upgrade the cam tensor pads, so why not throw a set of cams in? I get it, but that also means more money for the cams, carb kit and dyne time.
Thanks for your suggestions
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 24
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From: SE Michigan
Well, the original intent was to inspect the cam tensioner pads and if all was well ride the bitch.
I have new bike fever every time I enter the Dealer. So I thought I would ride the RK one more year, then sell and upgrade to a '14 or '15 FLHXS
Now I'm headed down this slippery slope of cam tensioner pads, cams, dyno tuning, ect. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the bike, its paid for, so why go in debt again?
Gear drive cams are an option for sure. I will discuss this more with the Tech. when I drop the bike off on Wednesday.
I have new bike fever every time I enter the Dealer. So I thought I would ride the RK one more year, then sell and upgrade to a '14 or '15 FLHXS
Now I'm headed down this slippery slope of cam tensioner pads, cams, dyno tuning, ect. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the bike, its paid for, so why go in debt again?
Gear drive cams are an option for sure. I will discuss this more with the Tech. when I drop the bike off on Wednesday.
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 347
Likes: 5
From: Corpus Christi, Texas
Pick up the tensioner shoes at cycogaskets.com. Really cheap and they will hold up quite a bit longer than the stock shoes.
Your bike is carb'd so it just needs to be rejetted and the tech should be able to handle that pretty easily. In my opinion the dyno part on a carb bike is just to give you some numbers to look at.
New andrews can be found all over ebay for <$250. Definitely the route I would go if keeping stock compression. It will be a nice bump from stock.
Your bike is carb'd so it just needs to be rejetted and the tech should be able to handle that pretty easily. In my opinion the dyno part on a carb bike is just to give you some numbers to look at.
New andrews can be found all over ebay for <$250. Definitely the route I would go if keeping stock compression. It will be a nice bump from stock.
Last edited by lizard86; Mar 29, 2015 at 12:37 PM.
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From: san antonio
SE 204 if you must stay with SE cams; the 211 is a poor choice. However, if considering aftermarket like Andrews, the S&S 509 should get a look. CYCO tensioners are the best replacement for the OEM tensioners and cheaper. CYCO does not sell retail but the tensioners should be available on Ebay.
You will need to re-jet as has been suggested and a couple of pulls on a dyno after re-jetting would be cheap insurance that AFR is good at idle, partial throttle and WOT. A couple of .025" shims to raise the needle and a full size up on the main would be a good place to start.
I would also suggest upgrading the inner cam bearings while you are in the cam chest. If you wanted to upgrade the oil pump, Drag Specialties offers one for a reasonable price; increased flow and scavenging.
You will need to re-jet as has been suggested and a couple of pulls on a dyno after re-jetting would be cheap insurance that AFR is good at idle, partial throttle and WOT. A couple of .025" shims to raise the needle and a full size up on the main would be a good place to start.
I would also suggest upgrading the inner cam bearings while you are in the cam chest. If you wanted to upgrade the oil pump, Drag Specialties offers one for a reasonable price; increased flow and scavenging.
