New/rebuilt engine start-up procedure
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 603
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From: So Texas
New/rebuilt engine start-up procedure
Today just might be the day that I get to fire up my bike after doing a complete top end and cam swap. I've used a ton of assembly lube as I put things together. I've read the break-in procedure from S&S, anyone have any tips as far as pre-start or initial starts? Should I somehow prime the oil system? After all this work I'm nervous about this. Thanks!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,007
Likes: 353
From: Ohio
I've seen some pull the plugs and press the starter to "move" things prior to starting the bike to get oil moving to where it needs to be. But if you followed the instructions you can just start it up. It may take a fraction of a second for the lifters to fill. But you should be fine. Just don't rev it. And don't let it overheat.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 404
Likes: 21
From: PA
Pull the plugs and fuel pump fuse, turn engine over 5 seconds or so three or four times ( allow starter to cool between cranking. Install plugs and fuse, start engine and let it run a couple minutes around 1100-1200 rpm and allow to cool. Do this three or four times increasing time and engine temp each time. Then your ready to ride, ride in normal fashion for 200-250 miles. Change oil and filter and ride it like you stole it. Use a good quality Dino oil ( Spectro Heavy Duty 20w50 )
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
Follow whatever procedure you like but I would avoid heat cycles. One or two for a minute or so to listen for weird noises and check for leaks then get on the bike and ride. It takes heat and compression for a good ring seal so lots of running up through first four gears; let the motor decal; rinse and repeat. Rings should seat in the first 25 miles. Better yet, if you are going to dyno tune, get the bike on the dyno and let the tuner break her in on the dyno; probably the best way to get a good ring seal, quick and a tune that is about right for the first 1000 miles.
Drain oil at 100 miles; keep the filter. Change oil and filter at 500 miles and again at 1000. After that revert to your normal oil/filter change intervals. Using assembly lube on the pistons and rings is not the best way to a quick ring seal. Assembly lube is designed to form a protective barrier between metals that contact one another; like cam and crank bearings. Ring seal is dependent on 360* contact with the cylinder wall under heat and compression and motor oil is the best lubricant for that application. If you did use assembly lube on the pistons/rings, ring seal might take a little longer.
Take a compression reading now and another at 1000 miles; that should tell you something.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Drain oil at 100 miles; keep the filter. Change oil and filter at 500 miles and again at 1000. After that revert to your normal oil/filter change intervals. Using assembly lube on the pistons and rings is not the best way to a quick ring seal. Assembly lube is designed to form a protective barrier between metals that contact one another; like cam and crank bearings. Ring seal is dependent on 360* contact with the cylinder wall under heat and compression and motor oil is the best lubricant for that application. If you did use assembly lube on the pistons/rings, ring seal might take a little longer.
Take a compression reading now and another at 1000 miles; that should tell you something.
http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 603
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From: So Texas
Well the good news is that it fired right up.
I had installed an aftermarket oil bypass plunger and spring (Fueling) that needs to come back out, I'm seeing 32psi at idle and 55 at 3000RPM. Blew out o-rings on the rear pushrods and the cam cover gasket. I've got a knock somewhere on the front cylinder.
So now I'm 50-50. It started but I've got some issues to address for sure.
I had installed an aftermarket oil bypass plunger and spring (Fueling) that needs to come back out, I'm seeing 32psi at idle and 55 at 3000RPM. Blew out o-rings on the rear pushrods and the cam cover gasket. I've got a knock somewhere on the front cylinder.
So now I'm 50-50. It started but I've got some issues to address for sure.
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Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2015
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From: So Texas
The knock might be an exhaust leak. I used the older flat donut gaskets instead of the conical type, pipes are V&H Pro Pipe. Not sure what they recommend. Also I have a sound that I can only describe as chirping, happens at idle on up.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
IIRC, in your "Piecing Together My 95" thread, I am pretty sure you were advised against shimming the pressure relief valve spring and it was suggested that you retain the OEM spring and polish the OEM relief valve to make sure it moved freely in the bore The HD TC oil pressure system is based on flow and volume; not pressure.
Post a video with the knocking and chirping; impossible to suggest where to look without hearing it. Your pipes don't know what exhaust gaskets you used so if the gaskets are seated properly and the exhaust fitted properly there shouldn't be an leaks. The HD SS gaskets are as good as any I have used. Chirping would indicate an exhaust leak but it could be something in the cam chest as well.
Patience and logical thinking will resolve your issues; welcome to the DIY world!
Post a video with the knocking and chirping; impossible to suggest where to look without hearing it. Your pipes don't know what exhaust gaskets you used so if the gaskets are seated properly and the exhaust fitted properly there shouldn't be an leaks. The HD SS gaskets are as good as any I have used. Chirping would indicate an exhaust leak but it could be something in the cam chest as well.
Patience and logical thinking will resolve your issues; welcome to the DIY world!