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Cam chain tensioner question

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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 10:59 AM
  #21  
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For the guys that think oh just stick a new set in it ain't that simple. The inner one requires the cam plate and cams pulled out of the case that means the pushrods need to come out. That requires either the heads to come off or the rods cut and replaced with adjustable ones. Then while the cams are out the bearings need to be replaced. I understand the hydraulic cam plate upgrade is better but I just don't like the theory that the tensioner pressure on the cam varies with oil pressure. What happens when ur sitting in 100* traffic and the oil press is low or crap in the oil makes the tentioner stick. I see there are after market upgrades to that with dual piston tensioners. While I ride 7-10k per year it's all local riding. I ride pretty much every day 10-15-20 mi or more and it's mostly in traffic and back roads. I'm not Mr Happy Pappy biker that put puts along or cruises the interstates at a steady speed. For me it's about throttling it out. That why I'm more inclined to go with the gear drive when I do it. So then the issue becomes crankshaft run out. I understand from some of the posts that the crank needs to be plugged and welded to get the runout within tolerance for the gear setup. Any thoughts on this???
 
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 11:47 AM
  #22  
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I've never had that service but if the runnout is more than .001/.002 I believe you must have it trued first, and plugged/welded for longevity. Could go directly to gear drive if the runnout is extremely good.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 01:35 PM
  #23  
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Yea, the max allowable run-out would be .0025", and .003" or greater will need to be trued.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2016 | 08:09 PM
  #24  
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As it happens, I'm replacing tensioners in an 02 FXD right now. DJL has been kind enough to coach me thru the job.

In order to make the job easier this time and all subsequent times I had my best friend make me a tool for removing the rear tensioner without removing the cams from the plate. Here's the video



He made this tool after looking at the cam plate and me explaining what had to happen. I'm going to do a thread on the job and will include details about the tool as well. This will make tensioner changes go pretty quick. I don't cut pushrods. I take the top rocker cover and block out. It doesn't take that much time.

Thanks DJL, I'll be in touch.
 

Last edited by Campy Roadie; Jan 24, 2016 at 03:17 AM.
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