I have just upgraded my 2014 Road King Classic with the Stage V Tyre Shedder Kit.
I'm delighted with it,however my engine runs so much hotter very quickly in traffic-which I need to address.
I am considering the Hi Capicity Oil Pan or the bigger oil pump.
I don't really fancy fans, but any idea's or input would be welcome.
I live in Kuwait-so heat is an issue!

 

The first thing I would look at is ceramic coated pipes and a solid tune. This will be a quick fix to lowering exhaust temp and a properly fueled bike will lower engine temp. Other options are the Baker +1.5 oil pan used with Fueling/S&S cam chest products.

 

I would recommend one of our crotch coolers easy to install and will really help you out .. http://shop.captain-itch.com/Harley-...hields_c58.htm

 

Has the motor been tuned? If so, post the sheet; if not, might want to get the motor tuned first. Let's make sure she is not running lean first or, worse, sumping.

An oil cooler is just a good idea on a high performance motor. You may not like fans but the Wards fans work; cool the heads, cool the oil.

http://www.wardspartswerks.com/cooling-fans.html

However, lacking a proper tune or, if she is sumping, all the other stuff is putting lipstick on a pig, or should I say hog.

 

How hot is hot? What are the oil and engine/head temps you are seeing?

 

Think about it as hot as it is over there. You add couple quarts oil. The oil gets hot like the original first 3 1/2 got, just 5 more miles down the road. What have you got. My guess is 5 1/2 quarts of hot oil.
Not sure what the Shedder Kit is but if you bumped the oil pressure at idle, that is what is cooking your oil. You do not want the oil flowing until you are moving in the air. That is why the piston oil injectors are designed to open above idle. That is how Harley engineered it. If you have a better way..good luck. My guess is you need a Twin Cool model and a side fan. Forget adding fuel to the fire. That just makes more heat.

 

You need to define hot? Are you feeling more heat on your right leg? or are you monitoring Cylinder Head Temps / Oil Temps?

 

Thanks for all your inputs-I will go through my thoughts on some of the inputs.
Unfortuately here in Kuwait-the dealer does not have a dyno-that option is not open to any of the thousands of Harley riders here ( however dyno only as good as operater!)
I have excellent relationship with the dealer/Techs-so we mapped the bike good after the rebuild (still can't get use to the noise from 259 cams!)
Ok-how hot is hot-well I don't have a oil temp gauge but at 19C in 2 mins of standing traffic the EITMS kicks in.
Now before everyone screams; as an aircraft engineer-engines-I KNOW the bike is not "happy"
Re ceramic pipes-I have the eagle twins on-but want the bike cooler-before exhaust stroke.
I don't think the standard pump copes too well at idle on the now 110 hence thoughts of bigger pump-better circulation etc
Re fans-I did not want something running all the time and several minutes after shutdown.
What about hi capicity oil pan?
2014 Road King has oil cooler fitted-do I need larger-hhhmm-think not?
Again-thanks for all your interest

 

OMG I can only imagine how hot that bike must be getting.Good luck!

 

Get an infrared temperature gauge and read head temps; that will give us something to better judge "how hot is hot".

You say the ECM has been "mapped"; what does that mean? If you don't know what the AFR is doing at idle, partial throttle and WOT, you know nothing about what the motor is doing. What system was used to "map" the motor?

A higher volume pump and another quart of oil is not going to do anything; as a matter of fact it could get worse if the pump increases pressure. More pressure = more oil heat. Adding another quart of oil may delay the oil reaching the high temps but the end result will most likely be that you have five quarts of hot oil instead of four.

The first thing you should do is to check for sumping. Get the motor to operating temps and open the plug in the right side of the crank case and see how much oil runs out. If more than 4-6 ounces the motor is sumping. Sumping is the result of a mis-aligned oil pump and/or a bad seal at the o-ring between the oil pump spigot and case. The scavenge side of the pump is not properly scavenging oil from the crank case and the crank is running in an oil bath. Think about how hard you have to work running in water up to your waist; same thing. Since the cam chest has been open, pump removed, this is a possible source of the heat that should be confirmed or eliminated.

Nest thing is the state of tune; you are pissin in the wind not knowing the state of tune. If you don't have a fuel management system, strongly recommend that you install the TTS Mastertune or the DJ Powervision and go through the auto tune process to bring the state of the tune as close as possible to a dyno tune. Do this before you start throwing money at pumps, pans, etc.

Once you have the motor running with a decent tune, install a set of Wards fans; they work as advertised. The fans can be wired to a thermostat so they only run at specified temps and shut off when things cool down. Or, you can connect the fans to the ACC switch and run them manually; turn them off/on whenever you want. Believe me, those fans will surprise; they make a huge difference.

I live in south Texas where it gets hot; not as hot as Kuwait, but hot. I have run twin oil coolers on a high performance 107" motor and it did help by dropping max temps about 10*-15* from the single oil cooler. However, the possibility of sumping and a decent state of tune should be the focus at this point.