Pushrod Adjustment
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
The kit on the S&S site says Evolution but do they work in TC?? Specifically the motor listed in my sig and would it be advisable to use them? I would say my top end is not particularly noisy but quiet would be nice. I have heavy beehive springs and the .625 lift cam. The flywheels are lightened and it revs quickly with the limiter set at 6200. Any thoughts are appreciated!!
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 885
Likes: 14
From: SoCal
Travel limiters will not quiet your valve train but replacing the Fueling lifters with a set of S&S premiums with a bit of extra preload might help. You mentioned "heavy" valve springs? Don't know how heavy but a lighter spring might help as well. Sometimes spring pressures are OTT and slam the valve back into the seat which contributes to top end noise................
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 6
From: Auburn, WA
If I follow, I think you understand the general purpose for travel limiters with the caveat that bleed down rate is going to depend on the internal tolerances of a lifter. IAW, an S&S Premium will not bleed down as fast as the OEM lifter. If clearances valve to piston clearances are measured and adequate, running lifters at .145" preload is not doing to damage anything.
I appreciate your responses and input.
thank you
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 885
Likes: 14
From: SoCal
Travel limiters will not quiet your valve train but replacing the Fueling lifters with a set of S&S premiums with a bit of extra preload might help. You mentioned "heavy" valve springs? Don't know how heavy but a lighter spring might help as well. Sometimes spring pressures are OTT and slam the valve back into the seat which contributes to top end noise................
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
1. set the piston on the cylinder you are working with at or very near TDC on the compression stroke. You will know by placing your finger over the spark plug hole; the compression will push your finger off as it comes up.
2. Adjust each pushrod and set preload at about .135" which is going to be 4 turns plus 2-3 flats.
3. Let the lifters bleed down until you can rotate each one with your thumb and forefinger before rotating the crank.
4. After bleed down, rinse and repeat on the other cylinder.
No need for gorilla strength when tightening the jamb nuts but they do need to be tight. Some use a tiny bit of red thread lock just between the jam not and the pushrod base on the final tightening............
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 6
From: Auburn, WA
Different ways but my way follows:
1. set the piston on the cylinder you are working with at or very near TDC on the compression stroke. You will know by placing your finger over the spark plug hole; the compression will push your finger off as it comes up.
2. Adjust each pushrod and set preload at about .135" which is going to be 4 turns plus 2-3 flats.
3. Let the lifters bleed down until you can rotate each one with your thumb and forefinger before rotating the crank.
4. After bleed down, rinse and repeat on the other cylinder.
No need for gorilla strength when tightening the jamb nuts but they do need to be tight. Some use a tiny bit of red thread lock just between the jam not and the pushrod base on the final tightening............
1. set the piston on the cylinder you are working with at or very near TDC on the compression stroke. You will know by placing your finger over the spark plug hole; the compression will push your finger off as it comes up.
2. Adjust each pushrod and set preload at about .135" which is going to be 4 turns plus 2-3 flats.
3. Let the lifters bleed down until you can rotate each one with your thumb and forefinger before rotating the crank.
4. After bleed down, rinse and repeat on the other cylinder.
No need for gorilla strength when tightening the jamb nuts but they do need to be tight. Some use a tiny bit of red thread lock just between the jam not and the pushrod base on the final tightening............
Last edited by Wv7o; May 21, 2016 at 08:17 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
First ones out had issues with poor quality adjustor nuts that were brittle and would crack or break but all sorted out now.Another tip on adjusting pushrods for a newbie. Do it with the cam cover off and, with a light, you visually confirm that the lifter is on the base circle.
Road Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 885
Likes: 14
From: SoCal
So I have the S&S premiums and the HLT2 travel limiters. The link is from S&S web site and it seems to use the the method as Wv7o describes in his first post. S&S is saying after adjusting for zero lash to shorten push rod 1 turn (for 32tpi) and tighten. I know it will be different for 24tpi which is what I have but 1 turn???? Is that enough?? One turn on 24tpi is .0414 if my math is right.
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
Last edited by mike_oh; May 31, 2016 at 06:00 PM. Reason: updated
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 90
From: australia
Good catch and correct. If the OP is installing the SE pushrods (Quick Install Tapered, PN 18404-08 IIRC), they are 24TPI; I go 3.5 turns (3 and 3 flats) on those. Running a set in my all bore 107" '02 FLHT...... First ones out had issues with poor quality adjustor nuts that were brittle and would crack or break but all sorted out now.
Another tip on adjusting pushrods for a newbie. Do it with the cam cover off and, with a light, you visually confirm that the lifter is on the base circle.
First ones out had issues with poor quality adjustor nuts that were brittle and would crack or break but all sorted out now.Another tip on adjusting pushrods for a newbie. Do it with the cam cover off and, with a light, you visually confirm that the lifter is on the base circle.
When its a new installation, I cant understand why this advice/tip, it not mentioned more !!!!
Also if you are cutting pushrods, (ie, not removing rocker), same advice/tip applies !!!! For first time installation, (newbies), it take the guess work out of the equation, and they can install more confidently !!!!
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
So I have the S&S premiums and the HLT2 travel limiters. The link is from S&S web site and it seems to use the the method as Wv7o describes in his first post. S&S is saying after adjusting for zero lash to shorten push rod 1 turn (for 32tpi) and tighten. I know it will be different for 24tpi which is what I have but 1 turn???? Is that enough?? One turn on 24tpi is .0414 if my math is right.