Well, A good lit magnifier and magnet would do the same... I doubt you'll find copper unless it was under the chrome. You forgot chrome.. If depending on the bike, some stuff could be chewed off the an inner cover, like rockers or cam..

 

Well, pretty obvious things are not OK but I would like to try and identify the source of the flakes.

We still don't know the MY but if '05 or later 585, with rollers should clear. If an earlier model, motor shouldn't have started. Perhaps a bit premature to jump to pulling the pan?? We will wait and see; maybe that is what will be required. I am not so sure the "swarf" wasn't there before the modifications; guess we will never know.......

 

"Flake" is a relative term.

On my drag race motors after an initial fire-up (new cam, lifters, rings, etc) it's common to have a bit of a metallic sheen to the oil. But that's with a flat tappet cam and they need break in so they get to "know each other."

A flake big enough to to feel between my fingertips.....if there's more than one or two, (espeicially if it's magnetic) the motor's coming back apart. From outside to in until I find the source. Sometimes the work reveals nothing. Most times it does. It can be a pain in the a$$, but it's just work, and it can save a big chunk o' change down the road. My rule is simple.....assume nothing.

 

You actually bring up a good point. What good is oil testing goingt to do during breakin?? You want probably 2 or 3 oil changes and some a couple thousand miles before all the moon dust is gone.

 

Seems the OP is on the verge of a catastrophic failure, even though we still don't know what the "flakes" are, how big they are or where they are coming from and the only way to avoid this certain death is to pull the top end, clean it up, flush the crank case, pull and clean the pan, pull and clean the oil cooler (if it has one) as well as the supply and return lines, pull the cam chest, clean all the cam chest components and flush all the internal oil passages in the motor to insure that all flakes have been removed. Put her back together, fire the motor up and hope not to see any more flakes. Oh yeah, make sure that when putting the cam chest back together that there is a proper o-ring and seal between the pump and the scavenge port and that the oil pump is properly aligned. That way, if you should see any flakes, at least the motor won't be sumping............

 

how do you know it's overheating? Has it been tuned?

 

Thanks for all the help bike is in the shop now. Once they find the problem I will post it up for every one knows what the problem is and how to fix it.

 

Is this shop where the original work was done?

 

No the oringal work was done by a frien. Bike runs great till it starts to overheated so got tried of deals ng with it.

 

Update for bike oil n metal flakes all in the engine shop says I need a new engine. Jack up my whole kit. On that note anyone know someone who is selling an engine.