Please help!!!!!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,830
Likes: 7,968
From: poway
Well, A good lit magnifier and magnet would do the same... I doubt you'll find copper unless it was under the chrome. You forgot chrome.. If depending on the bike, some stuff could be chewed off the an inner cover, like rockers or cam..
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
Originally Posted by bwoltz
If you used roller rockers, you were lucky it even started. Rocker cover needs clearance. Bike needs tune. Flakes mean you need to pull the cam case, oil pan and clean out the swarf. Late model TC will clear a 585. Early 5 speeds probably won't.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 2,181
Likes: 488
From: Central California
"Flake" is a relative term.
On my drag race motors after an initial fire-up (new cam, lifters, rings, etc) it's common to have a bit of a metallic sheen to the oil. But that's with a flat tappet cam and they need break in so they get to "know each other."
A flake big enough to to feel between my fingertips.....if there's more than one or two, (espeicially if it's magnetic) the motor's coming back apart. From outside to in until I find the source. Sometimes the work reveals nothing. Most times it does. It can be a pain in the a$$, but it's just work, and it can save a big chunk o' change down the road. My rule is simple.....assume nothing.
On my drag race motors after an initial fire-up (new cam, lifters, rings, etc) it's common to have a bit of a metallic sheen to the oil. But that's with a flat tappet cam and they need break in so they get to "know each other."
A flake big enough to to feel between my fingertips.....if there's more than one or two, (espeicially if it's magnetic) the motor's coming back apart. From outside to in until I find the source. Sometimes the work reveals nothing. Most times it does. It can be a pain in the a$$, but it's just work, and it can save a big chunk o' change down the road. My rule is simple.....assume nothing.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,830
Likes: 7,968
From: poway
"Flake" is a relative term.
On my drag race motors after an initial fire-up (new cam, lifters, rings, etc) it's common to have a bit of a metallic sheen to the oil. But that's with a flat tappet cam and they need break in so they get to "know each other."
A flake big enough to to feel between my fingertips.....if there's more than one or two, (espeicially if it's magnetic) the motor's coming back apart. From outside to in until I find the source. Sometimes the work reveals nothing. Most times it does. It can be a pain in the a$$, but it's just work, and it can save a big chunk o' change down the road. My rule is simple.....assume nothing.
On my drag race motors after an initial fire-up (new cam, lifters, rings, etc) it's common to have a bit of a metallic sheen to the oil. But that's with a flat tappet cam and they need break in so they get to "know each other."
A flake big enough to to feel between my fingertips.....if there's more than one or two, (espeicially if it's magnetic) the motor's coming back apart. From outside to in until I find the source. Sometimes the work reveals nothing. Most times it does. It can be a pain in the a$$, but it's just work, and it can save a big chunk o' change down the road. My rule is simple.....assume nothing.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
Seems the OP is on the verge of a catastrophic failure, even though we still don't know what the "flakes" are, how big they are or where they are coming from and the only way to avoid this certain death is to pull the top end, clean it up, flush the crank case, pull and clean the pan, pull and clean the oil cooler (if it has one) as well as the supply and return lines, pull the cam chest, clean all the cam chest components and flush all the internal oil passages in the motor to insure that all flakes have been removed. Put her back together, fire the motor up and hope not to see any more flakes. Oh yeah, make sure that when putting the cam chest back together that there is a proper o-ring and seal between the pump and the scavenge port and that the oil pump is properly aligned. That way, if you should see any flakes, at least the motor won't be sumping............
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
how do you know it's overheating? Has it been tuned?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
Is this shop where the original work was done?
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
4th Gear
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: san diego
No the oringal work was done by a frien. Bike runs great till it starts to overheated so got tried of deals ng with it.