Engine noise
Engine noise
I recently swapped out the cams on my 2010 Road King 96 ci with Andrews 48H cams and cam bearings, S&S Cycle Hydraulic Tappets 33-5350, S&S Cycle Adjustable Pushrods Kit 93-5095. While adjusting the rods I made sure each cylinder was @ TDC on compression and with oil filled lifters adjusted out 4 full turns. I insured that the lifters bled down and that the pushrods spun free before moving to the other set.. I also have tried 4 full turns + 2 flats and my motor still has a loud whirring sound and tapping noise. I installed Rock out rocker shaft inserts hoping that the rocker shafts was the problem with the tap but it did not help. I did not replace the cam chain tensioners as they looked in good shape. I have swapped out the stock comp sprocket & I will be changing out the primary chain tensioner with a Hayden M6-BT07 tensioner this weekend. I am running Amsoil 20W-50 full syn in the motor and primary. I also switched to Mobil 1 20W-50 full syn with no change.
I am planning on trying 4 full turns minus 2 flats to see if this helps quiet her down. I am wondering if I could have bad lifters or a different problem that I am overlooking. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am planning on trying 4 full turns minus 2 flats to see if this helps quiet her down. I am wondering if I could have bad lifters or a different problem that I am overlooking. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,221
Likes: 40
From: Chester NY
Were there any rub marks on the pushrods where they may have contacted the covers?
Usually if they rub its about 1/4 of the way down the p-rod.
Also, be sure the exhaust is tight and not rubbing anywhere or leaking anywhere.
Usually if they rub its about 1/4 of the way down the p-rod.
Also, be sure the exhaust is tight and not rubbing anywhere or leaking anywhere.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 654
Likes: 67
From: PacificNorthWest
I just did the 48h upgrade on my 08.
Are you running an open type air intake?
I am and mine clucks. Cam reversion?
I also have the whirring sound but haven't had a chance to chase it down at all. The tip about the rods hitting the PR covers is a good place to start
I'll be checking the pushrods for witness marks and readjusting this weekend.
Are you running an open type air intake?
I am and mine clucks. Cam reversion?
I also have the whirring sound but haven't had a chance to chase it down at all. The tip about the rods hitting the PR covers is a good place to start
I'll be checking the pushrods for witness marks and readjusting this weekend.
Sponsor
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 12,084
Likes: 829
I recently swapped out the cams on my 2010 Road King 96 ci with Andrews 48H cams and cam bearings, S&S Cycle Hydraulic Tappets 33-5350, S&S Cycle Adjustable Pushrods Kit 93-5095. While adjusting the rods I made sure each cylinder was @ TDC on compression and with oil filled lifters adjusted out 4 full turns. I insured that the lifters bled down and that the pushrods spun free before moving to the other set.. I also have tried 4 full turns + 2 flats and my motor still has a loud whirring sound and tapping noise. I installed Rock out rocker shaft inserts hoping that the rocker shafts was the problem with the tap but it did not help. I did not replace the cam chain tensioners as they looked in good shape. I have swapped out the stock comp sprocket & I will be changing out the primary chain tensioner with a Hayden M6-BT07 tensioner this weekend. I am running Amsoil 20W-50 full syn in the motor and primary. I also switched to Mobil 1 20W-50 full syn with no change.
I am planning on trying 4 full turns minus 2 flats to see if this helps quiet her down. I am wondering if I could have bad lifters or a different problem that I am overlooking. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I am planning on trying 4 full turns minus 2 flats to see if this helps quiet her down. I am wondering if I could have bad lifters or a different problem that I am overlooking. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
We load the lifter to .140"......27 flats, or 4.5 turns, with a 32 TPI pushrod.
Works here for us.
Scott
Banned
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 894
Likes: 25
From: Jacksonville FL
Buy stethoscope from auto parts store. It is better if you buy one with removable stick. If you remove it, it looks/works like doctors stethoscope.
Locate the sound.
Some automotive service manuals describe lifter fill procedure. Put it in oil (ATF is better) and keep squeezing it somehow until air bubbles stop coming out. Install lifters when pistons down. Wait 10 min after installation to start engine.
Locate the sound.
Some automotive service manuals describe lifter fill procedure. Put it in oil (ATF is better) and keep squeezing it somehow until air bubbles stop coming out. Install lifters when pistons down. Wait 10 min after installation to start engine.
Last edited by 13RoadKing; Mar 9, 2017 at 11:10 AM.
Got the bike on the lift last night and drained the primary oil. As I stated, I want to change out the chain tensioner and check the condition of the comp sprocket I installed. Emptied the pan tonight and I have never seen the waste oil (with low miles on it) look so grey and dull. Nothing found on the magnet except a small amount of rotor slime. I have tried listening with the stethoscope and it sounds like rocker box noise but when I went in there last time I didn't see any issues except the wear marks on the bolts from the rocker shafts. That is why I installed the Rock Out sleeves. This weekend I am going to look in the primary and start at the rocker boxes and look at everything right down to the cams and cam bearings to see if something is out of wack. As far as taking the rods to 27 flats, I am already at 26 flats when I put her back together I will adjust to 27. I will update when done. Thanks all.
Sorry it's been a while but this weekend I got back into the primary and found that the BDL compensator's outer nylatron washer had split and part of the washer was protruding from behind the steel washer. I removed the comp completely and found, like the older versions, that the comp was completely seized together and i could not separate the sprocket from the housing to check the condition of the larger, inner nylatron washer. I purchased the BDL compensator back in October and it only has 1064 miles in it. I shipped it back for a refund and purchased the SE Comp sprocket yesterday.
On the other side of the bike I was reinstalling the S&S hydraulic lifters when I noticed a witness mark at the rear cylinders intake lifter's anti rotation pin. It looks like this lifter is not running true on the cam but cocked to the right slightly. I am going to call S&S today to talk to them about it. Just hoping this did not cause any problems with the cams. Any thoughts why a brand new lifter would not run true on a new set of Andrews cams and is this something I need to worry about? I will check the front cylinder set tonight for a similar mark. The diameter of the pin is 0.2495" and the OD of the flats on the lifters is 0.758".
On the other side of the bike I was reinstalling the S&S hydraulic lifters when I noticed a witness mark at the rear cylinders intake lifter's anti rotation pin. It looks like this lifter is not running true on the cam but cocked to the right slightly. I am going to call S&S today to talk to them about it. Just hoping this did not cause any problems with the cams. Any thoughts why a brand new lifter would not run true on a new set of Andrews cams and is this something I need to worry about? I will check the front cylinder set tonight for a similar mark. The diameter of the pin is 0.2495" and the OD of the flats on the lifters is 0.758".
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
Kudos on the forensic investigation; seems you have found the source of the problems. I read many posts from owners that have installed the BDL compensator only to replace it not long after the install.
I recently read another post, forget where, from an owner that discovered the flats on a lifter being off; that is the flats were not machined to be precisely perpendicular to the roller centerline. I don't recall the lifter manufacturer but the lifter had to replaced. The witness mark on the pin would appear to be from the outside edge of the flat on the lifter riding against the pin. If I could draw, I would illustrate but if the lifter flat is not in the same plane as the face of the pin, one edge of the lifter flat would be riding on the pin. Not sure if this is your issue or not or exactly how one detects this condition but I would replace the pin and the lifter.
I recently read another post, forget where, from an owner that discovered the flats on a lifter being off; that is the flats were not machined to be precisely perpendicular to the roller centerline. I don't recall the lifter manufacturer but the lifter had to replaced. The witness mark on the pin would appear to be from the outside edge of the flat on the lifter riding against the pin. If I could draw, I would illustrate but if the lifter flat is not in the same plane as the face of the pin, one edge of the lifter flat would be riding on the pin. Not sure if this is your issue or not or exactly how one detects this condition but I would replace the pin and the lifter.
Last edited by djl; Mar 22, 2017 at 08:30 AM.