88 Dual Cam not turning over
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
88 Dual Cam not turning over
Hi guys. First time poster here. I just recently inherited my father's 01 Springer Softail with the 88 Dual Cam engine. It sat for over a year without being started. Got new plugs and I gave her an oil change and when I drained the oil tank, virtually nothing came out (not even enough to wet the whole bottom of the drain pan). I didn't think much of it and continued. (I read later that over time the oil can drain into the crankcase) When I tried to start her, she was having trouble turning all the way over. I thought maybe it was because the top end was dry and there was quite a bit of resistance from friction. So I shot a little oil in the plug hole just to wet her lips. While I had the plugs out I decided to do a spark test. Pulled both plugs out of the cylinders and stuck them in the caps. Hit the starter and bam! She's turning over just fine and I got a good even spark. But when I put the plugs back in and try to turn her over it's the same thing again. Seems like she's got too much compression or something. I guess my question is, can having too much oil cause it to turn over too slow? Idk where to go from here. My only idea is to drain the tank, pull the plugs, and hit the starter to try and pump oil out of the crankcase. Thanks in advance.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 101
Likes: 9
From: Massachusetts
- change the engine oil and filter
- change the plugs and gap them
- measure the resistance on plug wires with ohmeter; likely replace the set
- charge battery fully with 1-2amp trickle charger; or replace it
- is it carb? spray gumout carb cleaner liberally in its throttle body; add carb cleaner to fresh gas and fill tank
Sounds like it could be a fueling problem (carb or efi), because you say you have spark and the starter is turning the crank over 'just fine'. But start with the above. Just have to coax it with little changes. It's the same thing as a neglected lawnmower or chainsaw at this point.
Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
- change the engine oil and filter
- change the plugs and gap them
- measure the resistance on plug wires with ohmeter; likely replace the set
- charge battery fully with 1-2amp trickle charger; or replace it
- is it carb? spray gumout carb cleaner liberally in its throttle body; add carb cleaner to fresh gas and fill tank
Sounds like it could be a fueling problem (carb or efi), because you say you have spark and the starter is turning the crank over 'just fine'. But start with the above. Just have to coax it with little changes. It's the same thing as a neglected lawnmower or chainsaw at this point.
Last edited by astarks82@gmail.com; Jul 12, 2017 at 10:35 AM. Reason: Too many quotes
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,143
Likes: 7,657
From: Poolville
Look around for compression releases. Sound like the motor has good comp or the battery could be low. Put a volt meter across the battery terminals and see what you get when cranking it over shouldn't drop below 11.0v with a good battery... May have to put a good charge on it....
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 8,565
From: Bates County MO
All the oil that was in tank, drained into the crank case over time. Battery has to overcome compression and 3 quarts of 20w50 under the pistons. Drain the fresh (recently changed) oil into a clean container. Put the plug back in. Pull the spark plugs out, and with a new battery hooked to a tender, crank the engine over in 20 second bursts with a minute between cycles. repeat this a dozen times, watching the oil level in the tank, until you need to drain the oil tank into a different container or the level stops rising. All the previous oil will return to the bag. once all that is done, drain the tank, and put two quarts of the fresh oil from the clean container back into the oil bag.
Once this is done, and the bike is turning over properly, if it still doesn't start, we'll walk you through that, then. If it starts, warm it up, and set the oil level.
HTH
Once this is done, and the bike is turning over properly, if it still doesn't start, we'll walk you through that, then. If it starts, warm it up, and set the oil level.
HTH
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
All the oil that was in tank, drained into the crank case over time. Battery has to overcome compression and 3 quarts of 20w50 under the pistons. Drain the fresh (recently changed) oil into a clean container. Put the plug back in. Pull the spark plugs out, and with a new battery hooked to a tender, crank the engine over in 20 second bursts with a minute between cycles. repeat this a dozen times, watching the oil level in the tank, until you need to drain the oil tank into a different container or the level stops rising. All the previous oil will return to the bag. once all that is done, drain the tank, and put two quarts of the fresh oil from the clean container back into the oil bag.
Once this is done, and the bike is turning over properly, if it still doesn't start, we'll walk you through that, then. If it starts, warm it up, and set the oil level.
HTH
Once this is done, and the bike is turning over properly, if it still doesn't start, we'll walk you through that, then. If it starts, warm it up, and set the oil level.
HTH
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,780
Likes: 2,609
From: san antonio
Not to disagree with rigidthumper, his approach in post #6 will work but slow and tedious. I would remove the crank case plug located on the right (brake) side of the crank case and let all the oil in the sump drain out. The plug is a pipe plug and will require a hex (think allen wrench) to remove. It should come out easily but if you feel hard resistance, revert to rigidthumper's approach. Once all the oil has drained from the sump, put some pipe sealant on the plug threads and reinstall the plug. Go easy on the reinstall, there is no torque spec but it pipe plugs are tapered and if you crank down on tightening the plug you could crack the case. Just snug it up and give another 1/4 turn. Refill the oil tank and try starting then.
If the bike is carbed, you might very likely need to remove the carb, disassemble, clean and blow out all orifices and passages before it will start and run properly.
If the bike is carbed, you might very likely need to remove the carb, disassemble, clean and blow out all orifices and passages before it will start and run properly.
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Thread Starter
|
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Clearwater, FL
Not to disagree with rigidthumper, his approach in post #6 will work but slow and tedious. I would remove the crank case plug located on the right (brake) side of the crank case and let all the oil in the sump drain out. The plug is a pipe plug and will require a hex (think allen wrench) to remove. It should come out easily but if you feel hard resistance, revert to rigidthumper's approach. Once all the oil has drained from the sump, put some pipe sealant on the plug threads and reinstall the plug. Go easy on the reinstall, there is no torque spec but it pipe plugs are tapered and if you crank down on tightening the plug you could crack the case. Just snug it up and give another 1/4 turn. Refill the oil tank and try starting then.
If the bike is carbed, you might very likely need to remove the carb, disassemble, clean and blow out all orifices and passages before it will start and run properly.
If the bike is carbed, you might very likely need to remove the carb, disassemble, clean and blow out all orifices and passages before it will start and run properly.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,742
Likes: 8,565
From: Bates County MO
The jumper cables are transferring enough voltage, but maybe not adequate current. You might try it with a good HD battery properly installed, cables on the terminals so proper current flow is established.