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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Thanks for that. I was worried that it was too much cam but the number definitely work.
I'm doing a cost analysis on me vs my mechanic doing the install. Then I'll bite the bullet. Thanks very much for your help everyone.
if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge, it is not that difficult to do the cam swap yourself. the only other investment you may need to make is about 90 bucks for a inner cam bearing remover/installer tool.
if you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge, it is not that difficult to do the cam swap yourself. the only other investment you may need to make is about 90 bucks for a inner cam bearing remover/installer tool.
I agree and that's also a part of the fun, being able to do a lot by yourself. You get to know and understand your motorcycle by doing so. The job is not that sophisticated and can be done in a couple of hours. Now, if you are novice to this and the owners repair manual is like Latin to you, than I would advice you to get this done by friend-mechanic or HD shop. This will save you the investment of good and proper work tools.
I took a feeler gauge to my head gasket and I could get a 12 thou feeler in with slight resistance. Does a head gasket get thinner as it is tightened? Or is the measurement I was taking no relevant?
Not understanding the question; please clarify, perhaps with a photo. Some OEM head gaskets will compress a bit but none will squeeze down to .012"; MLS head gaskets do not compress. So something is wrong with your measurement since there is not head gasket that will squeeze down to .012".
BTW, you don't need to purchase the inner cam bearing R/R tool. Get the loaner blind hole puller from AutoZone to remove the bearings and tap them in using one of the removed cam shafts as the driver. Freeze the bearings over night, liberally apply assembly lube to the bearing and bearing bore, install with numbers facing out. The critical part of the install is making sure the bearing is started true in the bore and it will tap right in. If there is any doubt that the bearing is started true in the bore, start over.
I tried to measure the head gasket thickness because i can see it slightly between the head and the jugs. I managed to slide a 12thou feeler gauge into the gap with a little resistance, a 15though wouldnt fit. I dont know if this is a legit way to measure head gasket thicknsss at all.
When then change the cams ate changed, because im changing from SE255 to s&s 570, what would be a close map from the tuner i can download into it before i get it to the dyno tuner..?
That is not the way to measure head gasket thickness. If the heads have never been removed, the OEM head gasket is .045" thick. If the heads have been removed, I suppose one could fabricate a head gasket of any thickness but AFAIK there are not aftermarket head gaskets that measure .012".
The SEPST has a calibration file. If you have the cables, you can find a file that closest fits your configuration and load that file. Once loaded, you can use the Smart Tune feature to fine tune the calibration. Google "SEPST Smart Tune for Dummies"; there are some "how to" posts available on line.
Currently the bike is tuned for 88hp and 113ft/lbs of torque but pings. I reckon by changing my setup to a different cam and better pipe i should see a small jump in power and lower but similar torque moved right slightly higher up the rev range.
I have never asked my tuners to chase numbers, this is my daily rider, i dont have a car so it must be reliable hence me working to get rid of the ping.
So i checked out costs of buying parts, tools ect for all the work Ineeded done and the small additional cost of giving it to ths shop, plus not having to trailer it there for the tune outweighed doing myself.
Bike in the shop now and will.be ready by Friday, I'll let everyone know how it goes once picked up.
So I had the bike out last night. Torque has definately moved right so and it comes on around 3250rpm. When it comes on it F***** flies. It's insanely fast. Below that rpm I lost torque bit it is not sluggish at all, it has great manners in traffic but if you roll on the throttle it pulls harder than a Bangkok hooker.
When it was dynoed initially as recieved it produced 82HP and 96ft/lbs. I didn't expect such low numbers however when the bike was pinging with the last tune the tumer took some timing out of it to try and sort the ping without re dynoing it, so i knew there would be a drop, plus being a diffrrent dyno i expected a diffetent result to what was obtaines laat time.
Once it the cam change was done, thunderheader installed and it was tuned, the new results were 99HP, and 109ft/lbs of torque. The engine spins up a whole lot faster when rolling on, it feels very similar to a low rider s 110ci I trst rose a few momths ago. So all in all I'm absoloutely stoked with the results.
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