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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
2000 Electra Glide Ultra, 100" TC engine, 570 cams, MM fuel injection, no factory CHT gauge
Due to serious concerns for the health of my engine after the break-in of my rebuild went terribly wrong, I'm thinking about installing an aftermarket CHT gauge so I can be aware of when my engine is getting hot enough to risk risk damage so I can take steps to cool it off.
Do you run such a gauge? If so, what do you run and are you happy with it?
Also, I'd be glad to hear thoughts from informed minds on the topic who are not running one.
I see people commenting that such a gauge just gives you something to worry about, but damn, after what I just went through and the cost to correct it, I'm willing to take on that worry.
I see no need for a CHT gauge and rely on oil temp. I have neve had an overheating issue with the all bore 107 in my 2002 FLHT but if oil temps start passing 250*, I know the motor is getting hot since normal oil temps even on a hot south Texas summer day never pass 225*. Time to pull over and cool down or find a back road to get out of the traffic. If truly concerned about head temps, get a set of Ward's fans or Love Jugs; not sure is Ward is still selling his fan setup.
You would spend your money better knowing what your AFR is and fixing that, rather than monitor the demise.
Well stated. My WOT AFR is 13.8 on a PowerJet dyno, read in aggregate (no separate readings front vs rear.) I don't know the cruise AFR, but hope to find out once the motor is broken in on the street.
I see no need for a CHT gauge and rely on oil temp. I have neve had an overheating issue with the all bore 107 in my 2002 FLHT but if oil temps start passing 250*, I know the motor is getting hot since normal oil temps even on a hot south Texas summer day never pass 225*. Time to pull over and cool down or find a back road to get out of the traffic. If truly concerned about head temps, get a set of Ward's fans or Love Jugs; not sure is Ward is still selling his fan setup.
Oil temp as an indicator is a great point. I'll need to add that for sure. The reason I was thinking CHT, is because it's a more immediate indicator than oil temp. Having lost a front piston likely due to overheating during a dyno break-in, I am just em-effin' paranoid at this point.
Just rode the bike home with new pistons and cylinders, and rear cylinder got up to 370 (with a good quality hand-held infrared sensor), while the front was 100 degrees cooler.
Well stated. My WOT AFR is 13.8 on a PowerJet dyno, read in aggregate (no separate readings front vs rear.) I don't know the cruise AFR, but hope to find out once the motor is broken in on the street.
WHOOOPIE IN THE THREAD-
I read your signature it would seem your AFR is maybe, perhaps might be a fudge lean if your CR is up ..I dont know if it is.
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Now back to the regular. crap.
CHT is only a value at about 100% load.
if you are topping out just riding you HAVE TO BE too lean.
Next - i ask who is going to dictate too high?
I run 10 .5 with cast iron cylinders, a fat AFR and all is well.
Its like beating dead chickens here, they dont learn or move.'
The only thing changed in the last 100 years to make a POS HD engine run hot is the LEAN AFR! fix it!
Well stated. My WOT AFR is 13.8 on a PowerJet dyno, read in aggregate (no separate readings front vs rear.) I don't know the cruise AFR, but hope to find out once the motor is broken in on the street.
I would not worry about 13.8 AFR at WOT; the motor does not see WOT very often; partial throttle AFR is more important. You cannot adjust timing with the Power Commander and I would suggest upgrading to the Power Vision and a proper dyno tune and an oil cooler.
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