IIRC 07 lifters were B lifters.. Newer ones are C.

 

You might be fine with your lifters but then again you might not, I have seen many C lifters that were ok according to their owners that were anything but when inspected at a cam change, if one let's go it's messy.

 

I'm sure my mechanic will inspect them. If they are iffy ... They will be glad to inform me Mo money for them

 

Things tend to get out of hand when you ask others on how to spend your money, it's not uncommon to see someone asking how to check their crank run out and people start suggesting building a 124 around here. However on a late model low mileage bike such as yours there are a few things that I think are a must with just a cam swap

Measure and record crank run out, hopefully you will never have to go back in, but its good to know where it is

Use adjustable push rods, make sure you get a kit that comes with the tubes, SE, FM, or S&S are all good choices, a lot of opinions on this around here, but precise lifter preload is a must IMO

DON'T take a chance on the lifters, they may look good today but the stock late model lifters have caused more than a fair share of issues, S&S premiums or standards are my choice but there are other good options out there too

Proper dyno tune is a must, don't trust a canned map sent to you by somebody else, your bike needs may be different than others and your tune should be dialed in on a dyno by a professional where it can be monitored and adjusted properly

Good luck and share your results with us when you're done

 

I had the comp cams V Thunders at my door for less than $60. I paid a lot more for the S$S premiums but I only did that to keep my engine all S$S. I never saw a negative review of the V Thunder lifter.

 

Ask them how much you will save by using adjustable... As said earlier a lot less time... And yes replace the lifters. S-S standards will work just fine...

 

The advantage of adjustable push rods is not just about ease of installation. They allow you to increase lifter preload to help keep top ends quieter when using more aggressive cam profiles. The Woods cams I run in my bikes, for example, are much quieter with .140" to .150" preload which is much more than the stock push rods provide Your stock lifters will work but a set of S&S lifters are not that expensive and are far superior to stock.
With respect to the cam plate. Your stock cam plate should work just fine. It would be nice if you could check to make sure the bypass valve is working properly and you have good oil pressure while things are apart. Baisley makes an upgraded spring and plunger which is inexpensive

 

You want adjustable pushrods, new cam bearings, and new lifters. I assume they're putting in new cam bearings as a standard procedure. You do not need a new cam plate, and you don't need gear drive.

 

I think you will like the woods 222's, is what I installed on my bike. if you have the bucks to spend, go with a good set of lifters and maybe a set of better tensioner shoes. I used the s@s premium lifters and quickee push rods and s@s tensioner shoes, even though the originals looked great at 28k miles but just did not want to open the cam chest for a long time. also as others said replace the bearings with a better quality as the cost is very minimal.

 

Yes on new lifters (many people like the S&S standards, great lifters that are not too expensive) and yes on the adjustable pushrods. The cost of the adjustable is almost a wash versus the added labor and gaskets to open the rocker boxes. Your stock cam plate is fine and adding the Baisley spring is not a bad idea. As mentioned previously, have the crank runout checked and have new Torrington cam bearings installed...