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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
IDK and was wondering myself.
It would seem that the valve should be rotated by spring wrap, or some method.
Most car engines rotate the valve in some manner. (AFAIK)
This is the best stuff I have read on here in a whilst
Totally agree, it's good to hear theory being discussed, nice break from the normal threads that flood this section.
To most people none of this really matters, they just want a yes or no answer on what parts to order. For the guys that measure everything down to the Nth degree of a gnat's *** this stuff really does matter. In My Opinion, everything depends on each individual situation. What I mean by that everything has to be put together checked and corrected if necessary, it's all in the details. the little **** is what matters. Does every engine need corrected or roller rocker arms? NO If your geometry is dead nuts on then it's not going to make a huge difference between standards and rollers, if it's not absolutely perfect would a roller tip reduce side load on a valve guide to a certain degree? I think it would. If your geometry is all out of whack, nothing is going to help until it's corrected. Noise is subjective, some engines will make more noise with rollers, some with standards will be noisy. I don't believe there is a hard line as to say when they are needed. This all goes against the weekend warrior, internet shopper and the shops that are doing drive through big bore kit installs.
Besides guide wear there is all valve end/ rocker wear.. I would expect that your high lift build might wear the exhaust guides in 20 to 40K. I do know that 06 up heads when used with SS valves, roller rockers, moderate springs, stock guides (7mm) and Crane H290 will get about 50000 miles before the stock exhaust guides are out of spec.
Also know that W8 cams with heads that have heavy springs will stress the valve ends and kill a few rockers without rollers in about 7 to 10000 miles.. W777 doesn't seem to hurt the same heads. In both cases heads has AVnV valves and guides.
I'm running a bike with the W777 cam, mild springs, stock rockers and cast iron 5/16 guides but really only have about 10K on it..
Well, that's good to know. Not running the Crane 290 in my 98, CR595 but do run S&S rollers and the lower compression all bore 107" motor runs TMan 600 SM cams with OEM rockers. Both with moderate AVV beehive springs, bronze 7mm guides and Ferrea valves so I don't have to worry about all that wear for almost another 10 years which was kind of my point all along; don't worry, be happy; rollers or not.
Well, that's good to know. Not running the Crane 290 in my 98, CR595 but do run S&S rollers and the lower compression all bore 107" motor runs TMan 600 SM cams with OEM rockers. Both with moderate AVV beehive springs, bronze 7mm guides and Ferrea valves so I don't have to worry about all that wear for almost another 10 years which was kind of my point all along; don't worry, be happy; rollers or not.
The 98" has less than 1K since built and the 107" has about 5K since built. Throw the BMW R9T into the bike rotation and 3K miles/year on either is a stretch unless I take a cross country trip which, unfortunately, I only get to do about once a year. Looking forward to the day, soon coming, when I can take more.
Agree that OP does not need rollers and he has been told so by me, several others and now you.
Not required and will make more noise than OEM rockers. Running OEM rockers with TMan 600SM cams in an all bore 107 and S&S rollers rockers on my higher compression 98" motor with CR595 cams; the 107 can barely hear the valve train in the 107 but not so much with the 98". Not annoying, just saying you will hear roller rockers over OEM. IMHO, not worth the $$, nothing to be gained on the dyno and the miles that most of us put on these bikes, guide wear is not an issue.
Do you have prove of that, less friction less heat and should be less noise means more HP and Torque also the sockets in the roller rockers are a better seal on pushrods meaning better oil pressure to top end , makes sense would compliment the lifter roller, no matter what lift cam your got
Do you have prove of that, less friction less heat and should be less noise means more HP and Torque also the sockets in the roller rockers are a better seal on pushrods meaning better oil pressure to top end , makes sense would compliment the lifter roller, no matter what lift cam your got
C'mon man; 18 month old thread and nobody that posted has any proof of anything that was posted. Who cares what rocker arms you or anybody else runs; certainly not me. The OPs question was did he "need" roller rockers with a cam lift of .575" and the answer was a very firm no but the thread morphed into a discussion about the cost/performance benefit of modified corrected geometry roller rockers; maybe you should read the whole thread but at least pay attention to the date.
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