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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
guy i work with has a 2005 roadglide, said the compensator started to saw on the primary case and punctured it, bike is still up north in hd shop waiting for him to pick it up, they already told him to tear cam side apart. unless the bearing and seal under the stator got damaged dont see how u would get filings and crap into the cam side but guess they want to make money, he told them to leave if and he will pick up and bring home to fix it. not sure if the bolt broke or the 3 posts the ramps push against broke, the question is anyone know if its 1/2 or 5/8 bolt I had mine appart about a month ago to replace my fried stator, didnt pay a lot of attention to the size on my 2009 just checked threads for wear, lock tight and tighten back up to spec in my manual. at a guess im thinking 1/2-20 mine torqued to 140 ft/lbs not sure if the 2005 is same bolt size or torque.
The '05 compensator is completely different from the '09; the comp is attached with a nut, not a bolt. It was not uncommon for the early compensator to loosen up and back off on some of the early models. Factory manufacturing and assembly tolerances varied enough that the comp nut could be torqued to spec but would not apply sufficient clamping pressure to hold the compensator. The MoCo offered shims for a fix but most of the DIY guys shaved .030"-.060" off the nut, torqued to spec; problem solved. A diagram of the fix and a parts diagram showing the comp nut (#24) is attached to clarify.
Don't know if this was the problem or the extend of the damage but might be a good idea to use a new comp nut shaved .030"-.060" and torque to spec on re-assembly. The torque spec changed in '03 when the Timken crank bearing was replace with a roller; 150-165 IIRC.
is that the inward end of the nut looks like it butts up against part 20, that must set the preload on the compensator for shock load shaving the end of the nut down lets the head tighten the whole thing up a bit more
guess the shim if used would go around the head of the nut to pre load more if u didnt cut
is that the inward end of the nut looks like it butts up against part 20, that must set the preload on the compensator for shock load shaving the end of the nut down lets the head tighten the whole thing up a bit more. guess the shim if used would go around the head of the nut to pre load more if u didnt cut
Yup, that's it. A gap is necessary to allow full clamping pressure on the comp. The comp nut on my '02 FLHT never came loose but I did have to shave the comp nut on my '05 FXSTD after it came loose the second time.
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