basics on pushrods
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: long Island
basics on pushrods
Picked up larrys lifters, figure 32k on her (14FLHTK) and a combination of preventive maintenance along with chasing down the dang loose sounding top end noise will be good winter therapy for me..
Also grabbed the SnS quickie pushrods...
Tell me where im wrong or am i on point .. If SnS pushrods are 32tpi..
1.00 inch / 32 = 0.03125
Dividing 0.200 tota lifter travel in half,
0.100 / 0.3125 = 3.2
100 thou would be 3.2 turns or 19.2 flats ?
Splitting hairs now, if my garage is near freezing, or near 100 degrees the point where freeplay dissapeares might be a little more one way then the other ?
Has anyone ever even considered this as a consideration when spinning wrenches?
Also grabbed the SnS quickie pushrods...
Tell me where im wrong or am i on point .. If SnS pushrods are 32tpi..
1.00 inch / 32 = 0.03125
Dividing 0.200 tota lifter travel in half,
0.100 / 0.3125 = 3.2
100 thou would be 3.2 turns or 19.2 flats ?
Splitting hairs now, if my garage is near freezing, or near 100 degrees the point where freeplay dissapeares might be a little more one way then the other ?
Has anyone ever even considered this as a consideration when spinning wrenches?
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Beyond Fucital
The free play isn't affected by ambient temperature. You're just snuging the pushrod until it touches, then you count flats from this point.
It's about getting the internal spring inside the lifter set to center.
It's about getting the internal spring inside the lifter set to center.
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Joined: Aug 2014
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From: long Island
The whole point of these self adjusting lifters is to make up for the change in distance from the rocker arm pocket to the cam lobe...
(or so I have been told)
As the aluminum cylinder heats up and grows in length, the lifters pump up a little more...
That being the case, and middle of the road is leaving a hundred thou for heating (From what ever temp it was when you adjusted it
and a hundred though for shrinkage when its running much colder...
Could the lifters be working better when more compressed in travel ?
My engine always sounds better cold, (Especially the top end) so may be there is something to the the 140 thou (A wee bit more than half way compressed)
Making me think the Valve springs may be a tad on the weak side now...
Ahh.. I know folks say just ride it.. Splitting hairs about this stuff is great when I cant ride, takes my mind off the day to day bs, kinda like a zen thing..
wax off....
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 15,420
Likes: 7,118
From: Beyond Fucital
Ok, I hear ya.. But lol..
The whole point of these self adjusting lifters is to make up for the change in distance from the rocker arm pocket to the cam lobe...
(or so I have been told)
As the aluminum cylinder heats up and grows in length, the lifters pump up a little more...
That being the case, and middle of the road is leaving a hundred thou for heating (From what ever temp it was when you adjusted it
and a hundred though for shrinkage when its running much colder...
Could the lifters be working better when more compressed in travel ?
My engine always sounds better cold, (Especially the top end) so may be there is something to the the 140 thou (A wee bit more than half way compressed)
Making me think the Valve springs may be a tad on the weak side now...
Ahh.. I know folks say just ride it.. Splitting hairs about this stuff is great when I cant ride, takes my mind off the day to day bs, kinda like a zen thing..
wax off....
The whole point of these self adjusting lifters is to make up for the change in distance from the rocker arm pocket to the cam lobe...
(or so I have been told)
As the aluminum cylinder heats up and grows in length, the lifters pump up a little more...
That being the case, and middle of the road is leaving a hundred thou for heating (From what ever temp it was when you adjusted it
and a hundred though for shrinkage when its running much colder...
Could the lifters be working better when more compressed in travel ?
My engine always sounds better cold, (Especially the top end) so may be there is something to the the 140 thou (A wee bit more than half way compressed)
Making me think the Valve springs may be a tad on the weak side now...
Ahh.. I know folks say just ride it.. Splitting hairs about this stuff is great when I cant ride, takes my mind off the day to day bs, kinda like a zen thing..
wax off....
With the Quikee Pushrods or collapsible "Adjustable" Pushrods this is not an issue.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Ok, I hear ya.. But lol..
The whole point of these self adjusting lifters is to make up for the change in distance from the rocker arm pocket to the cam lobe...
(or so I have been told)
As the aluminum cylinder heats up and grows in length, the lifters pump up a little more...
That being the case, and middle of the road is leaving a hundred thou for heating (From what ever temp it was when you adjusted it
and a hundred though for shrinkage when its running much colder...
Could the lifters be working better when more compressed in travel ?
My engine always sounds better cold, (Especially the top end) so may be there is something to the the 140 thou (A wee bit more than half way compressed)
Making me think the Valve springs may be a tad on the weak side now...
Ahh.. I know folks say just ride it.. Splitting hairs about this stuff is great when I cant ride, takes my mind off the day to day bs, kinda like a zen thing..
wax off....
The whole point of these self adjusting lifters is to make up for the change in distance from the rocker arm pocket to the cam lobe...
(or so I have been told)
As the aluminum cylinder heats up and grows in length, the lifters pump up a little more...
That being the case, and middle of the road is leaving a hundred thou for heating (From what ever temp it was when you adjusted it
and a hundred though for shrinkage when its running much colder...
Could the lifters be working better when more compressed in travel ?
My engine always sounds better cold, (Especially the top end) so may be there is something to the the 140 thou (A wee bit more than half way compressed)
Making me think the Valve springs may be a tad on the weak side now...
Ahh.. I know folks say just ride it.. Splitting hairs about this stuff is great when I cant ride, takes my mind off the day to day bs, kinda like a zen thing..
wax off....
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Joined: Aug 2008
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sounds better cold probably due to oil viscosity and clearances.
setting mid travel (using someones .140) is putting .238 stem clearance using 1.7 rocker ratio
if the lifter is working correctly, it will maintain zero lash.
do not forget, lifters do have a bleed rate and if not correct for application, can be of issue.
i run the s&s htl2 spacers and run just enough clearance to quite the valve train, about .040 on the stem clearance. it is running more solid than hydraulic.
setting mid travel (using someones .140) is putting .238 stem clearance using 1.7 rocker ratio
if the lifter is working correctly, it will maintain zero lash.
do not forget, lifters do have a bleed rate and if not correct for application, can be of issue.
i run the s&s htl2 spacers and run just enough clearance to quite the valve train, about .040 on the stem clearance. it is running more solid than hydraulic.
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From: Honah Lee
I always go 1/2 way into lifter. Even those like the Jeep I just rebuilt. It had no adjustment but a few where off when I ran down to no play and noticed turn before torque . I just ground off a little off rocker furcum. Couple needed about .025 off.
Heat expansion is never going to out run the middle with .100. Keep in mind valve spring overrides lifter so valve cannot be held open. Just never pump up lifter with oil. Even new ones have assembly oil film in then. Just run it up till pushrod has no end play with cam on base circle and then your .100 into your lifter if it has .200. Be sure you check that thread count. I have a pitch gage but a know bolt can be used as a substitute.
Heat expansion is never going to out run the middle with .100. Keep in mind valve spring overrides lifter so valve cannot be held open. Just never pump up lifter with oil. Even new ones have assembly oil film in then. Just run it up till pushrod has no end play with cam on base circle and then your .100 into your lifter if it has .200. Be sure you check that thread count. I have a pitch gage but a know bolt can be used as a substitute.
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Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 68
Likes: 9
From: long Island
I always go 1/2 way into lifter. Even those like the Jeep I just rebuilt. It had no adjustment but a few where off when I ran down to no play and noticed turn before torque . I just ground off a little off rocker furcum. Couple needed about .025 off.
Heat expansion is never going to out run the middle with .100. Keep in mind valve spring overrides lifter so valve cannot be held open. Just never pump up lifter with oil. Even new ones have assembly oil film in then. Just run it up till pushrod has no end play with cam on base circle and then your .100 into your lifter if it has .200. Be sure you check that thread count. I have a pitch gage but a know bolt can be used as a substitute.
Heat expansion is never going to out run the middle with .100. Keep in mind valve spring overrides lifter so valve cannot be held open. Just never pump up lifter with oil. Even new ones have assembly oil film in then. Just run it up till pushrod has no end play with cam on base circle and then your .100 into your lifter if it has .200. Be sure you check that thread count. I have a pitch gage but a know bolt can be used as a substitute.
So, I planned on pre-oiling the lifters which Im not sure is the same as pumping them up? I just hated the thought of anything being dry for long...
So say pre-oiling is not the same as pumping up.. After the lifters go in, getting on base circle, just run the quickies up until end play is gone and I will be at the .100 ??
If so, I dont get it.. I though the spring in the lifter kept the plunger (not sure or correct name, but where the push rod seats) at the top of its travel?