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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
So I have decided over the winter to build my 16' SG's 103 up it just lacks the power I want. I was thinking of a 110" kit to make 120hp/tq but started reading about crank runout and want to do it right. So now the plan is to probably get a S&S crank that is trued/balanced /welded which then asks should I go with a 4 5/8" or stay with 4 3/8" to make a 117" or 124"?
I really hate to rip the 103 apart to use the cases being it only has 1100 miles so I was thinking to grab another set and build a complete engine the way I want it. The next question is who is a trust worthy place to do the crank and case work?
I'm open to suggestions and comments about sizing and stroke also! I don't do allot of miles as you can see more of a bar hopper and short weekend cruiser.
Plenty of 110" kits running with OEM cranks. Build it, tune it ride it but don't beat on it with burnouts, wheelies etc. and it will probably hold up; if not, you have a reason to address the crank. Having said that, if you decide to rebuild the lower unit, send the lower unit to Hoban Brothers, AKA Darkhorse for the work, If going that far, might as well go with the 4.625" crank. Unless you case bore for bigger bore cylinders, 116" is as big as you can go with the 110" drop in kit (4" bore" which does not require case boring. Having been down that road building an all bore 107" motor (124TQ/110HP) for my '02 FLHT that ran away from by buddies new 114" model (not even a contest) I should have spent a marginal amount more and build a 124". Decision, decisions............
S&S cranks are not welded. And as for reliability....S&S is the only crank so far I’ve managed to destroy. Sooo....stick with OEM if runnout is at or below .004 and build the 110 (if built right you can achieve 130/130). I know because I’ve just done one.
You can "as long as I'm in there" yourself into a spanky new motorcycle.
My advice - before you get into the weeds and find yourself $10k poorer and dissatisfied with a fire-breathing beast, I'd ask myself "what am I hoping to accomplish?" You may find that a moderate 107" or 110" more than satisfies what you're looking for in the smiles-for-miles department. Spend the money on gas and tires instead. Several vendors right here on this site who can guide you to the best solution for your desired outcome. Being in Maryland, I think I'd reach out to @Hillsidecycle.com .
I did look at the S&S crate motor's along with SE 120's but they are not going to be tailored to my needs and not built as well. I think for the same cost I can build a balanced 124" engine for the same cost as a crate and it will make better power.
Too say I'm not going to run the new combo hard would probably not be a true statement this Is why I'm doing the work to feel some performance plus I do allot of wrenching myself which helps with cost. I don't think the stock untouched crank would last very long at 130hp running it hard and why have that much power and not use it. I was planning to chatting with Darkhorse for the crank work I think they have their line of nice cranks so I'm not dead set on S&S at least in stock form.
S&S cranks are not welded. And as for reliability....S&S is the only crank so far I’ve managed to destroy. Sooo....stick with OEM if runnout is at or below .004 and build the 110 (if built right you can achieve 130/130). I know because I’ve just done one.
Surprised you say that. I would never recommend sticking with HD crank if you want power....or even modding the crank. I would go S&S all the way.
as for welding an S&S crank I heard the stock 3 piece (nonwelded is fine)...there is a YouTube video of s&s testing and welded crank and their new 3 piece unit and the welded one snapped way before.
I did look at the S&S crate motor's along with SE 120's but they are not going to be tailored to my needs and not built as well. I think for the same cost I can build a balanced 124" engine for the same cost as a crate and it will make better power.
Too say I'm not going to run the new combo hard would probably not be a true statement this Is why I'm doing the work to feel some performance plus I do allot of wrenching myself which helps with cost. I don't think the stock untouched crank would last very long at 130hp running it hard and why have that much power and not use it. I was planning to chatting with Darkhorse for the crank work I think they have their line of nice cranks so I'm not dead set on S&S at least in stock form.
I agree with you...I wouldn’t just drop in a crate motor w/o doing some person touches. Just not suited for your riding style and just cooking cutter way out. If you’re going to hot rod it then there are things that need to be addressed!
Sometimes it's just better to go bigger. (S&S 124 ). I am running a FM 107 outlaw kit in my 15 rgs.(125hp tq 130) with a stock crank and beat on it like a dead horse. I do burnouts wheelies and long distance touring 2 up loaded down. I am about to hit 20k on the build and I also run a solid comp. Everything people said not to do I am doing . Maybe I just got lucky. For the amount of abuse that I have put it thru I am impressed. If it gives out tommo I feel I got my money's out of it.
So I have decided over the winter to build my 16' SG's 103 up it just lacks the power I want. I was thinking of a 110" kit to make 120hp/tq but started reading about crank runout and want to do it right. So now the plan is to probably get a S&S crank that is trued/balanced /welded which then asks should I go with a 4 5/8" or stay with 4 3/8" to make a 117" or 124"?
I really hate to rip the 103 apart to use the cases being it only has 1100 miles so I was thinking to grab another set and build a complete engine the way I want it. The next question is who is a trust worthy place to do the crank and case work?
I'm open to suggestions and comments about sizing and stroke also! I don't do allot of miles as you can see more of a bar hopper and short weekend cruiser.
A 117" with the use of your crankshaft, surrounded with the proper components can be a true powerhouse.
Just sent a complete turn-key 117" to northern MD, and shipped another rippin' 80" Evo combo to Arnold, MD yesterday.
Happy to help.
Scott
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