TC88 engine noise
Here are some of the details I already been through.
- There's 27.000km (about 17.000 miles) on the clock
- A Harley specialist has investigated the issue. Unfortunately we have parted prematurely due to a difference in opinion (the bike has been there for 3 months and I thought it was enough):
- Specialist's opinion was that the milage was fair and probably hasn't been tempered with
- Cam shafts and tensioners were checked, they were in good condition
- Oil has been drained and checked
- Oil filter has been cut open and checked
- Cilinder heads have been pulled:
- Intakes have been flowed by previous owner?
- Pistons and cilinders looked good, although the pistons were a little wet. Probably because of a rich mixture (190 main jet with stock pipes)
- Cilinders have not been pulled as far as I know
- Gearbox was checked, piece of metal was found in the oil. It came of the 6th gear (Screamin Eagle gearbox), the sprocket has been replaced
- Primary has been completely disassembled and checked
- The bearing of the rear shaft has been replaced
- The specialist said that the lifters were stuck? It's not sure if he freed them up, or just closed the engine again (at that moment we got into an argument about the time).
- Spark plugs have been replaced
- The stock pipes have been replaced by 4,5" open pipes
- The engine does not use excessive amounts of oil
- The belt rubs against the rear tire when I reverse the bike. Forward it runs freely.
Here's a clip of the noise:
As I said, the specialist and I got into an argument (it wasn't pretty) and he just quit. Right now I am just riding it, as I am happy to have it back finally after 3 months. It runs great, but the sound has been bugging me every time I stop riding. Few options I was thinking of:
- Replace the 190 main jet with a 180 (because of the wet pistons)
- Check the lifters, maybe even replace them
- Something with the ignition timing?
Hope you guys can enlighten me, thanks
Last edited by Daylights; Sep 30, 2019 at 03:54 PM.
Unless the lifters have been changed, they are the original "B" lifters; Delphi and the best the MoCo produced. The crank is a hot forged unit secured by a Timken left side crank bearing that makes the lower unit near bullet proof. The bike is carbed like my '02 so no EFI to mess with. Unfortunately, the ignition timing cannot be adusted unless you replace the OEM ignition module with a programmable ignition like the Daytona Twin Tec TC88 unit but if the cams are stock, ignition timing should not be an issue.
Like I said, I don't hear any alarming noise; the motor is an air cooled vtwin and it will not purr like a Honda; just the nature of the beast.
I don't recall off hand what the stock jetting for that carb is but if mileage is suffering, you might try a 185 main. I would also check the needle to see if it has been raised with shims. The idle does seem a little rough, like the A/F idle screw might need some adjustment. Check to see if the metal plug that covers that screw has been removed. Idle rpms should be about 1100, some say 900 but IMHO, that is too low.
It this point, I would suggest a compression and leak down test to confirm the condition of the top end. If that checks out, I think I would just ride the bike.
Forgot to mention that it is normal for the drive belt to track in toward the rear tire.
Last edited by djl; Oct 1, 2019 at 01:05 PM.
I do expect the exhaust to be not fully air tight, it does puff and bang quite a bit when I release the throttle. Making the main jet smaller will probably make it worse?
The list so far:
- Check exhaust for leaks
- Some carb adjustments, idle (main jet?)
- Compression test
- Lifter check, maybe replacement
The motor should start with enrichener (choke) but should run without choke within the first few minutes of startup. Full choke on start, gradually push choke in and by the time the cylinder heads are warm to the touch, the motor should run without choke. It still might hesitate a bit to quick throttle action but not for long. The motor should not "puff and bang" at all. The A/F idle mixture screw is not the screw used to adjust idle speed. The A/F screw is accessed from the underside of the carb and, in stock configuration, it is concealed by a small aluminum plug that must be removed.
Carb jetting can be frustrating but once one gets the hang of it and one understands the effect of making jetting changes, it does become less frustrating. The important thing is starting with a fully functional carb and know jetting baseline. Tuning then requires riding and making one adjustment at a time until satisfactory results are achieved. At the point, checking mileage and plug conditions will confirm that jetting is OK.
I have attached an article that should help understand carb jetting/tuning and a diagram for setting float level. Good luck.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
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the torque values where too low for this bolt (to the point that the rotor wobbles and wears out also) ...and the harley techs knew it too !!!
good luck ...
Last edited by springers4ever; Oct 7, 2019 at 04:26 PM.











