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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I suppose you're right. Put the piston on the compression stroke towards the bottom, and when you're done rig up a small hose onto a vacuum to suck any metal bits out of the cylinder that may have gotten by.
I use a sticky bees wax on the tap when I do plug repairs, lubes and holds what little chip come off tapping. Poke a blow gun down the hole, blow it out and your done. Lost count of the plug holes I've repaired on the bike over the years this way.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; Jan 20, 2020 at 10:53 PM.
Thanks guys for all the non hysterical response's, "YOU HAVE TO PULL THE HEAD!" like some people like to give. Yea maybe but I'll try easy stuff first. Like Max suggested, maybe not enough anti-seize, I listened to the wrong group that said never use it. Like Twisted suggested I'll use some lube and let it soak first. Then I'll use a big breaker bar and take it real easy so I don't have to jerk it. I had already thought of the vacuum out the hole after too but thanks. I bought a Jims thread chaser after putting the plug in anticipating the problem when I take it out and then read about a Power Built Back Tap and bought one. It goes all the way into the cylinder then you tighten it up and back it out. You can tighten it to whatever you want to make the first backups a lose fit then tighten a little more etc.
The problem with anti-seize is that some want you to use it everywhere. Even HD recommends axles and swingarm pivot. IMO the only place it's really needed is on items that see high temps like the spark plug, compression release, exhaust flange nuts, and O2 sensors. Axles should get (surprise) , axle grease.
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