88" Bone Stock - What do the Experts say?
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3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 7
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From: Illinois
88" Bone Stock - What do the Experts say?
2003 FLHR
88" TC bone stock except ac and exhaust
S&S Stealth ac
Rinehart True Duals full exhaust 4"
17K on the clock
I'm a big guy, 99% of my riding is solo, wife stays home with the 3 little kids
Looking to upgrade and get more so I can keep up with the upgraded M8's some of the guys I ride with have. Most of my riding is highway and open country roads. Go to the mountains and hill country on longer distance rides. I'll probably scoop up a 2019 or 2020 road glide special this winter, but want to keep my road king too.
I thought the 100" S&S kit would be the easiest route, but I've seen enough from guys that know their stuff on here to tell me to do something different.
How can I get the most bang for my buck and do this once vs. going back in every year for incremental upgrades?
There's an old school engine builder not far from me, but I wanted to see what you guys thought and if you have any recommendations. Maybe there is already a build listed out on here that speaks exactly to what I am asking and I haven't found it thru search yet? Can you break it down simple for me? I have done my own basic work but have never torn into an engine past the carb and rocker boxes. Love to learn though! I am in Illinois, 60 miles west of Chicago.
88" TC bone stock except ac and exhaust
S&S Stealth ac
Rinehart True Duals full exhaust 4"
17K on the clock
I'm a big guy, 99% of my riding is solo, wife stays home with the 3 little kids
Looking to upgrade and get more so I can keep up with the upgraded M8's some of the guys I ride with have. Most of my riding is highway and open country roads. Go to the mountains and hill country on longer distance rides. I'll probably scoop up a 2019 or 2020 road glide special this winter, but want to keep my road king too.
I thought the 100" S&S kit would be the easiest route, but I've seen enough from guys that know their stuff on here to tell me to do something different.
How can I get the most bang for my buck and do this once vs. going back in every year for incremental upgrades?
There's an old school engine builder not far from me, but I wanted to see what you guys thought and if you have any recommendations. Maybe there is already a build listed out on here that speaks exactly to what I am asking and I haven't found it thru search yet? Can you break it down simple for me? I have done my own basic work but have never torn into an engine past the carb and rocker boxes. Love to learn though! I am in Illinois, 60 miles west of Chicago.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 5,315
Likes: 4,272
From: Granville New York
Step one determine a budget...thatll dictate what kind of a build people can recommend. Before you do anything I'd pull the cam cover and check your runout...03 is the first year HD went away from the forged crank with the timken bearing. If you have too much runout...more than .004 i think most people would suggest not building a powerhouse on top of that. Again budget will dictate what you do next.
You say you dont want to go back in year after year so split the cases, get a stroker crank and build a 124 and be done with it....thats my uneducated, unprofessional opinion lol.
You say you dont want to go back in year after year so split the cases, get a stroker crank and build a 124 and be done with it....thats my uneducated, unprofessional opinion lol.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,779
Likes: 2,609
From: san antonio
First, I don't put myself in the "expert" category but Screaming Beagle is right; how much can you/do you want to spend. 98" is as big as you can go on the 88" motor which, IMHO, is preferable to the 100" drop in kit.
If keeping up with the M8s guys is your goal, I think you might do it with 98" built right; 110/115 numbers are achievable and the M8s are speced at about 110TQ/80HP IIRC so it would be close considering they are running a six speed with lower final drive ratios 1st thru 5th but you could keep up with them.
Beagle also makes a point about the crank. If you want to run hard, it would be wise to pull the lower unit and send it off for machine work to make the Timken left side bearng conversion or at least have the HD "Lefty" bearing installed and address the crank. Once the cases are split the final displacement of the motor should be decided and the options are to address the OEM crank and stick with 98" or you could go all the way to 124". If funds are available that is exactly what most of us would do but it's easy to spend someone else's money.
My '02 FLHT running a carbed all bore 107" motor at 110HP/124TQ runs away from the M8s; not even a contest. I also have the advantage of the Twist Gear setup that makes the first four gears of the five speed a close ratio four speed with 10% lower ratios in the first four gears but maintains the 1:1 3.15 final drive for the highway. The M8 guys are totally confused as I usually let them take off first but once in third gear all they see is tail lights getting smaller and smaller.
If keeping up with the M8s guys is your goal, I think you might do it with 98" built right; 110/115 numbers are achievable and the M8s are speced at about 110TQ/80HP IIRC so it would be close considering they are running a six speed with lower final drive ratios 1st thru 5th but you could keep up with them.
Beagle also makes a point about the crank. If you want to run hard, it would be wise to pull the lower unit and send it off for machine work to make the Timken left side bearng conversion or at least have the HD "Lefty" bearing installed and address the crank. Once the cases are split the final displacement of the motor should be decided and the options are to address the OEM crank and stick with 98" or you could go all the way to 124". If funds are available that is exactly what most of us would do but it's easy to spend someone else's money.
My '02 FLHT running a carbed all bore 107" motor at 110HP/124TQ runs away from the M8s; not even a contest. I also have the advantage of the Twist Gear setup that makes the first four gears of the five speed a close ratio four speed with 10% lower ratios in the first four gears but maintains the 1:1 3.15 final drive for the highway. The M8 guys are totally confused as I usually let them take off first but once in third gear all they see is tail lights getting smaller and smaller.
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 7
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From: Illinois
$
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 28,842
Likes: 16,583
From: Wisconsin, USA
I would listen to these two. Theyre skilled professionals. Check their other posts.
Last edited by Ron750; Aug 19, 2020 at 07:38 AM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2014
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From: Lititz Pa
I would just keep it stock its been good to you and will be a good bar hopper when you get your new bike. I have went that route before its fun but always something going wrong. As far as M8 goes I have a 114 ya it has power but sounds like a singer sowing machine on steroids LOL. I have even put headers, RCX mufflers and tuner with a/c. I miss my 103 so if you like sound and power, buy a used low millage 103 and start with that. It will blow them M8's away with some essay upgrades and sound good too.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: Dubuque, IA
I would just keep it stock its been good to you and will be a good bar hopper when you get your new bike. I have went that route before its fun but always something going wrong. As far as M8 goes I have a 114 ya it has power but sounds like a singer sowing machine on steroids LOL. I have even put headers, RCX mufflers and tuner with a/c. I miss my 103 so if you like sound and power, buy a used low millage 103 and start with that. It will blow them M8's away with some essay upgrades and sound good too.
I'm far from an expert but I sure wouldn't go thru all that and leave that CV carb on. Do yourself a big favor and put a Mikuni HSR 42 on. Maybe even a 45 depending on the rest if the build.
Exhaust is a key component but is also a personal preference thing when it comes to sound and appearance. There's several good options in both 2in1s and 212s.
I'd do my research and choose accordingly because all the power in the world wouldn't matter if I couldn't stand listening to it run. Also depends on where you want your power. Some of best exhausts for peak hp suck at low end and vice versa. No exhaust is best at both ends. Period.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Aug 19, 2020 at 06:33 PM.