Checking camshaft and breather end play with new gasket?
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 92
From: out there
I have re-used MLS head gaskets after checking V to P clearance many times. The head does not need to be torqued to spec to check V to P clearance. Unless the TDC lift is .200" or greater and heads haven't been decked, V to P clearance is most likely not an issue but should always be checked. The OP has a couple of options but there is an option that is a little more time consuming but prevents the risk of bending a valve and can be used with or without the head gasket and is now my preferred way to measure V to P. clearance when running cams with lifts > .600" and TDC lifts > .200".
Remove the valve springs and with the valves firmly seated measure and mark (magic marker) the TCD lift plus .060" or whatever he uses as the minimum acceptable clearance. Attach the head to the cylinder and open the valve up to the mark; the seal should hold the valve. Gently rotate the crank to push the piston up to TDC and if no contact; your golden. However, if there is contact, mark the distance the valve is pushed up. The distance between the new mark and the original mark at TDC plus .060" will tell you how big of a problem you have and you won't have bent a valve. You still have the thickness of head gasket to consider as well.
If the OP chooses the clay route the head gasket can be installed and the head snugged down but not torqued to spec so it can be reused after checking V to P clearance. This route does require converting a couple of lifters to solids and does present the risk of bending a valve; doesn't take much. However, as previously said, if TDC lift is less than .200", that risk is minimized. I am assuming that the OP knows how to use the clay method and will not use solder.
Remove the valve springs and with the valves firmly seated measure and mark (magic marker) the TCD lift plus .060" or whatever he uses as the minimum acceptable clearance. Attach the head to the cylinder and open the valve up to the mark; the seal should hold the valve. Gently rotate the crank to push the piston up to TDC and if no contact; your golden. However, if there is contact, mark the distance the valve is pushed up. The distance between the new mark and the original mark at TDC plus .060" will tell you how big of a problem you have and you won't have bent a valve. You still have the thickness of head gasket to consider as well.
If the OP chooses the clay route the head gasket can be installed and the head snugged down but not torqued to spec so it can be reused after checking V to P clearance. This route does require converting a couple of lifters to solids and does present the risk of bending a valve; doesn't take much. However, as previously said, if TDC lift is less than .200", that risk is minimized. I am assuming that the OP knows how to use the clay method and will not use solder.
Otherwise, I will have to use the old clay method.... snug the heads down only, and then use the copper gasket sealant for final install that 98hotrod suggested?
Thanks again. 👍
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,050
Likes: 92
From: out there
I trust it....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...SABEgLLpvD_BwE
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...SABEgLLpvD_BwE
So you are not joking, you are actually recommending this product?
Thanks. 👍
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,064
Likes: 7,591
From: Poolville
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