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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
After going back and forth about doing this, I finally pulled my top end. My question is do I need to get whole new breather assemblies if I remove them or are the gaskets and umbrella valves included in the cometic top end kit all I need? I just see in the fsm anytime it's disassembled it my must be replaced.
This is on a 2013 103. I'd like to replace the umbrellas while I'm doing this since I have them even tho I wasn't having any issues with them...yet.
I'm pulling the heads just to replace the gaskets with the .030 to tighten the squish. It will also bump my CCP from 190 to 197/198ish according to the BB calculator.
I have tinkeritis and this top end kit has been sitting here since I did cams just calling my name. With my CCP at 190, raising compression wasn't really all that necessary.
Also, if I'm right in my thinking, I would need to back my S&S quickies off by 3 flats to make up for the .015 difference in gaskets correct? Each flat being .00583. Or should I just go 2 flats back preloading the lifters slightly more than .140?
You can reuse the stamped steel housing components, with the new umbrellas and gaskets in the kit. Just make sure you get all the old gasket material off. The complete assembly from HD isn't that expensive, though, if you prefer to go that route.
For the pushrods, I would just go through the preload setting procedure as though I was installing them for the first time. That way, you know exactly what you're setting the preload to, without any guessing.
That makes sense on the pushrods and I figured as much on the breathers but wasn't sure since I haven't had one apart yet.
This was another reason I decided to do this. For those that think it's acceptable to keep breathing into the intake. The original owner of my bike did so for 29,000 miles. This is what your pistons will look like. Keep tell8ng yourself the EPA mandated internal crankcase breathing is ok. Obviously it is NOT.
The good news is I have zero deck height. Actually slightly above with the carbon. lol
The original owner of my bike did so for 29,000 miles. This is what your pistons will look like. Keep tell8ng yourself the EPA mandated internal crankcase breathing is ok. Obviously it is NOT
I know this is one of your frequent "talking points" and is close to your heart but FWIW: I ran the stock system for 30K and while there were indeed combustion deposits , I could still read the part numbers etched into the piston crowns.
I did vent to atmosphere upon reassembly just because "it couldn`t hurt and costs almost nothing"
I've been breathing to atmosphere the past 3000 miles now and running sea foam in my fuel because I knew it would be carboned up from previously. It's coming off fairly easily but is time consuming. That sh!+ will glow red and pre-ignite.
I've seen worse but there's no way breathing hot oily air can be deemed harmless and the power loss has been well documented on a dyno...repeatedly.
One more thing...what's up with drilling out the oil drain in the support plate? Good idea?
I've been breathing to atmosphere the past 3000 miles now and running sea foam in my fuel because I knew it would be carboned up from previously. It's coming off fairly easily but is time consuming. That sh!+ will glow red and pre-ignite.
I've seen worse but there's no way breathing hot oily air can be deemed harmless and the power loss has been well documented on a dyno...repeatedly.
One more thing...what's up with drilling out the oil drain in the support plate? Good idea?
Yes, it's a good idea. Use an 1/8" drill bit on the oil return holes in the rocker plates.
I've been breathing to atmosphere the past 3000 miles now and running sea foam in my fuel because I knew it would be carboned up from previously. It's coming off fairly easily but is time consuming. That sh!+ will glow red and pre-ignite.
I've seen worse but there's no way breathing hot oily air can be deemed harmless and the power loss has been well documented on a dyno...repeatedly.
One more thing...what's up with drilling out the oil drain in the support plate? Good idea?
Agreed, and yes do drill the oil return hole in the support plate. I drilled mine to 0.130" (a little over 1/8"). I have my heads vented to atmosphere using DK Custom's Outlaw Breather Bolts. When I first installed the breather bolts, I was getting a lot of oil coming out, and coating the back of the air cleaner mount, etc... once I drilled the return holes, that disappeared until the rings wore out, and the oil spray came back worse. Since rebuilding Reaper's top end, there hasn't been a drop of oil out of them in almost 6000 miles.
Good deal. Thanks guys. It was worth the effort just to get that carbon cleaned up. I'll run it like she is now for another year or 2 if I can go that long without getting bit by the power bug.
This should be a slight increase in power with the .030 head gasket tightening the squish. My pistons are only .003 in the hole. Should put my CCP around 197ish.
After spending nearly an extra day at this cleaning up the carbon deposits from the previous owner's stupidity running the stock breather system, got this project done and all is well. Well almost. Seems I messed up an o2 sensor in tbe process but no biggie.
Compression is better than I thought at 200psi on the nuts. Figured I might lose some after cleaning up the carbon deposits but nope.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Oct 11, 2020 at 06:00 PM.
Yes, it's a good idea. Use an 1/8" drill bit on the oil return holes in the rocker plates.
Gentlemen, I have read about this a few times on these forums. Can anyone spell this process out in layman terms, and explain what it accomplishes? Is there a YouTube video or write-up on this?
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