More EVO tps setting
When making the adjustments to the TPS I unplugged the IAC and then powered bike on.
I set TPS fully closed at .275v
I set the cold idle screw at .655v
I powered the bike off, plugged IAC back in, and then disconnected battery for hours. Didn't mess with fuses.
Should this help the ECM reset its minimum throttle position memory?
The first time i did this it worked wonders, this time after EV13 cam install (and assorted cam side parts) it wouldnt start without a bit of throttle and
I had warm idle issues after adjusting on the fly (starting 2nd time during ride and lingering high throttle for most of a minute)
TPS setting were pretty much where i left them but checked it anyway while
dealing with bent Quickie pushrod touching the tube (annoying)
I set TPS fully closed at .275v
I set the cold idle screw at .655v
I powered the bike off, plugged IAC back in, and then disconnected battery for hours. Didn't mess with fuses.
Should this help the ECM reset its minimum throttle position memory?
The first time i did this it worked wonders, this time after EV13 cam install (and assorted cam side parts) it wouldnt start without a bit of throttle and
I had warm idle issues after adjusting on the fly (starting 2nd time during ride and lingering high throttle for most of a minute)
TPS setting were pretty much where i left them but checked it anyway while
dealing with bent Quickie pushrod touching the tube (annoying)
You need to set hot idle setting before disconnecting power. I did not see that step listed above.
When you set base TPS to .275 that was with throttle plate completely closed - no cables or screws acting on it correct?
When you set base TPS to .275 that was with throttle plate completely closed - no cables or screws acting on it correct?
correct. fully closed. I read a bunch of old threads but couldn't decide about the power.
The part about warming the bike up and stabilizing the warm idle, raising the warm idle, clearing the memory, then warming the bike and bringing warm idle back down
is the part I cant seem to grasp.
Right now I have just verified the fully closed voltage, then immediately set the cold idle voltage (from fully closed position)
then turned my warm idle screw back to where it started, and disconnected power.
I must have ready every thread from the past and I am not quite clear on it.
I sure wish the '98 EPA would have trusted us to make tuning changes and the service info was available.
The part about warming the bike up and stabilizing the warm idle, raising the warm idle, clearing the memory, then warming the bike and bringing warm idle back down
is the part I cant seem to grasp.
Right now I have just verified the fully closed voltage, then immediately set the cold idle voltage (from fully closed position)
then turned my warm idle screw back to where it started, and disconnected power.
I must have ready every thread from the past and I am not quite clear on it.
I sure wish the '98 EPA would have trusted us to make tuning changes and the service info was available.
That may be, but I am sick in the head, and I want to see if I can make it work, I've learned a lot, just don't have a handle on this aspect.
My love is OBSOLETE! Ha.
If the input is good, the output should be good. Right?
Swapping crooked S&S Quickie rods now, May have it ready to run again soon, to continue tuning idle.
I can always swap to carb when I fail!
My love is OBSOLETE! Ha.
If the input is good, the output should be good. Right?
Swapping crooked S&S Quickie rods now, May have it ready to run again soon, to continue tuning idle.
I can always swap to carb when I fail!
in a nutshell, disconnecting the power allows the ECM to know the hot idle tps setting when you first power it up after the disconnection.
You could get the bike totally hot, and while it's running, disconnect the ISC connector. This takes cold idle out of the equation for setting the base TPS.
Then you can set a hot idle and disconnect the power. Recheck the hot idle and redo if necessary - always disconnecting power if RAISING the TP voltage.
If the bike is stock, there are Harley procedures for setting it all at one time.
One note of caution, the ET sensors on EVOs are known for going bad. If that sensor is on the fritz, you will never get it right trying to set the idle.
You could get the bike totally hot, and while it's running, disconnect the ISC connector. This takes cold idle out of the equation for setting the base TPS.
Then you can set a hot idle and disconnect the power. Recheck the hot idle and redo if necessary - always disconnecting power if RAISING the TP voltage.
If the bike is stock, there are Harley procedures for setting it all at one time.
One note of caution, the ET sensors on EVOs are known for going bad. If that sensor is on the fritz, you will never get it right trying to set the idle.
in a nutshell, disconnecting the power allows the ECM to know the hot idle tps setting when you first power it up after the disconnection.
You could get the bike totally hot, and while it's running, disconnect the ISC connector. This takes cold idle out of the equation for setting the base TPS.
Then you can set a hot idle and disconnect the power. Recheck the hot idle and redo if necessary - always disconnecting power if RAISING the TP voltage.
If the bike is stock, there are Harley procedures for setting it all at one time.
One note of caution, the ET sensors on EVOs are known for going bad. If that sensor is on the fritz, you will never get it right trying to set the idle.
You could get the bike totally hot, and while it's running, disconnect the ISC connector. This takes cold idle out of the equation for setting the base TPS.
Then you can set a hot idle and disconnect the power. Recheck the hot idle and redo if necessary - always disconnecting power if RAISING the TP voltage.
If the bike is stock, there are Harley procedures for setting it all at one time.
One note of caution, the ET sensors on EVOs are known for going bad. If that sensor is on the fritz, you will never get it right trying to set the idle.
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