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When should the crank be upgraded

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Old May 15, 2021 | 07:01 PM
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Default When should the crank be upgraded

I’m thinking of going to a 107 or 110 with head work etc on my 2010 FXDF

At what HP & torque level should the standard crank be upgraded?

Thanks
 
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Old May 16, 2021 | 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Brad24
I’m thinking of going to a 107 or 110 with head work etc on my 2010 FXDF

At what HP & torque level should the standard crank be upgraded?

Thanks

there is no "written in stone" rule on this,i tell our customers its a good idea on any buid & not to do so is a crap shoot at best.
 
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Old May 16, 2021 | 07:39 AM
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When you're going to increase the stroke.

Honestly, make sure yours is true and run it. Unless you're making a drag racer engine for bracket racing you don't need a crank for a 110ci build.
 
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Old May 16, 2021 | 08:17 AM
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What happens when the cranks fails typically?

I drag race a SBF sedan we turn to 8K
so I’m used to carnage lol
 
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Old May 16, 2021 | 09:13 AM
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All it took my stock 06 TC crank to fail was 551 cams & a Power commander V. I never run my bike hard, in fact it's rather pampered. I wish HD would be proud and spend an ounce more energy on their whimpey cranks.
 
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Old May 16, 2021 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by skills
All it took my stock 06 TC crank to fail was 551 cams & a Power commander V. I never run my bike hard, in fact it's rather pampered. I wish HD would be proud and spend an ounce more energy on their whimpey cranks.
I mean it's like they cut every possible corner to save money and then still charge premium prices for their bikes. Lol!
I guess it's just like anything else, guns, cars, airplanes etc., good enough is never good enough for a lot of us.
Remember what Vinny Gambini said.........................
 
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Old May 17, 2021 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Brad24
What happens when the cranks fails typically?

I drag race a SBF sedan we turn to 8K
so I’m used to carnage lol

we`ve seen way more cranks loose the rod bearings than going out of true to where its actually a problem,this is one of the reasons we recomend going to a S&S crank over just rebuilding & plugging a OEM crank.the OEM rods without races are a very poor idea that dosnt work very well
 
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Old May 17, 2021 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
we`ve seen way more cranks loose the rod bearings than going out of true to where its actually a problem,this is one of the reasons we recomend going to a S&S crank over just rebuilding & plugging a OEM crank.the OEM rods without races are a very poor idea that dosnt work very well
Thanks mate
 
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Old May 17, 2021 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
we`ve seen way more cranks loose the rod bearings than going out of true to where its actually a problem,this is one of the reasons we recomend going to a S&S crank over just rebuilding & plugging a OEM crank.the OEM rods without races are a very poor idea that dosnt work very well

I thought the later TC SnS cranks don't have races. It was only the ones with the 1.5 inch crank pin that had the races. IMO they weren't very good cranks.
 
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Old May 17, 2021 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320
we`ve seen way more cranks loose the rod bearings than going out of true to where its actually a problem,this is one of the reasons we recomend going to a S&S crank over just rebuilding & plugging a OEM crank.the OEM rods without races are a very poor idea that dosnt work very well
Yup,I went to a 4 3/8 stroke S&S. I don't have many miles of proving it but I do anticipate much better results
 
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