M8 cams EPA compliant?
I'm not chasing numbers just looking for the best all around tune possible. I don't mind shelling out the $$ but if the consensus is that it's wasted money then I'll keep the SE cam.
thanks
Last edited by luckiestiff; Aug 30, 2021 at 06:30 PM.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/milwa...m-testing.html
I don't know if it's worth it to change cams to you. If you're doing your own install it'd be a pretty simple swap. If you're having someone do it you're gonna pay for it lol. From what I know the TTS 100 is an easier cam to tune relatively speaking. Have you used the TTS 100 at all or do you just have one?
I thought the EPA references were mostly related to using the SE canned tunes? I know that the 447 is a pretty mild cam based on the specs, but I don’t think the EPA mandates the specific tolerances for lift, duration and timing, do they?
IMHO, if you’re going through the expense of having it dyno tuned, I’d do the cam swap as I’d expect you’ll get much better results.
I'm not chasing numbers just looking for the best all around tune possible. I don't mind shelling out the $$ but if the consensus is that it's wasted money then I'll keep the SE cam.
thanks
Ditch the SE stuff. Go aftermarket. That TTS 100 is super rider-friendly, with gobs of torque. You just need to couple it with the right tuner.
Every SE cam, when tuned with the SE tuner, will be EPA compliant.
Every SE cam, if tuned with a non-SE tuner module, will most probably get your factory warranty canceled if your dealer finds out about it.
Any non-SE cam cannot be made compliant with the SE tuner, and any non-SE cam cannot be made EPA-compliant when tuned with an aftermarket tuner module.
A well-designed aftermarket cam, plus an aftermarket tuner module, with the bike dyno-tuned by a qualified professional tuner, will make WAY more power than any EPA-compliant cam and tune. WAY.
But, if your bike is still under the factory warranty, well...now it isn't.
So, if keeping your factory warranty intact for the full 24 months is important to you, then stay SE all the way.
If you want both your warranty and performance, wait 24 months and then go aftermarket.
If performance is more important to you than your factory warranty then go aftermarket now.
If "good enough" performance is good enough, then go SE.
It all boils down to what are the most important things to you: Protecting your 24 month factory warrant, performance, not having to wait 'til the warranty expires, or some combination.
Ain't never simple, is it.













