Crazy Engine question
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: PA
Crazy Engine question
So for the long story,
I have a friend who has a 2003 Heritage. When he first got it about 6 years ago he had a friend of ours, who is a Harley Mater Tech, do a complete cam chest upgrade SE cam plate kit, Andrews Cams, new lifters and bearings. Long story short when the tech was doing the work he had an inner cam bearing explode, he thought he got all the pieces but didn't so after 2 oil pumps he pulled and split the cases........My friend always thought something was wrong.....
Last year on the way to OCMD Bike week, he had an oil light come on and a lifter start clacking. The lifters were replaced and the bike ran fine until this spring. again the oil light came on and loud clacking again.
So another friend who is a tech, took a look at the bike he pulled the motor again and split the cases, nothing looked bad or worn. Lifters and cams were ok. He even put on a set of Rocker Lockers.
We were out on a ride Saturday and and about 1 hour in, the oil light came on and the clacking came back.
So while waiting for a trailer the bike cooled down and the oil light stayed out and there was no clacking.
Everyone is at a loss as to what is causing this. I know Harleys run more on oil flow then pressure.
Just looking to pick some brains on where to go with this bike at this point
I have a friend who has a 2003 Heritage. When he first got it about 6 years ago he had a friend of ours, who is a Harley Mater Tech, do a complete cam chest upgrade SE cam plate kit, Andrews Cams, new lifters and bearings. Long story short when the tech was doing the work he had an inner cam bearing explode, he thought he got all the pieces but didn't so after 2 oil pumps he pulled and split the cases........My friend always thought something was wrong.....
Last year on the way to OCMD Bike week, he had an oil light come on and a lifter start clacking. The lifters were replaced and the bike ran fine until this spring. again the oil light came on and loud clacking again.
So another friend who is a tech, took a look at the bike he pulled the motor again and split the cases, nothing looked bad or worn. Lifters and cams were ok. He even put on a set of Rocker Lockers.
We were out on a ride Saturday and and about 1 hour in, the oil light came on and the clacking came back.
So while waiting for a trailer the bike cooled down and the oil light stayed out and there was no clacking.
Everyone is at a loss as to what is causing this. I know Harleys run more on oil flow then pressure.
Just looking to pick some brains on where to go with this bike at this point
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 7,811
From: SE Louisiana
Seems like the clacking is a result of low oil pressure, the oil pressure relief valve may be sticking, and the piston jets may be open as well.
If the oil tank and lines, and oil cooler if it has one, was not thoroughly cleaned, it'll be an on going problem.
If the oil tank and lines, and oil cooler if it has one, was not thoroughly cleaned, it'll be an on going problem.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: PA
Oil tank and lines were removed and flushed. How can I check the others? Not really sure
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: PA
Just heard back from my friend who had the motor out and split 3 weeks ago, he replaced the pressure relief valve and the oilers
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5,776
Likes: 7,811
From: SE Louisiana
I wonder if something in the engine is still producing metal in the oil, like a rod bearing peeling the hardened surface.
All this started after running with cam bearing coming apart deal, the rod bearings are feed oil though the pinion shaft, and there's no way to really clean trash from the rod bearings unless the crank is rebuilt.
I'm guessing the oil pressure is not up to par and when the oil gets hot and thin, it's too low, it may be sumping somewhat and adding to the oil temp..
He's going to have to go in the cam chest and look around again, see if trash went through the oil pump, check crank runout.
Does the drain plug magnet have metal? also cut the oil filter open to inspect, cut the element top and bottom with a serrated knife, peel it off and stretch it out.
I'm guessing when the tech inserted the cam bearing removal tool, the needles were knocked out into the case.
Tip: I use a hose clamp to compress the removal tool before inserting in the bearing, it doesn't touch the rollers when inserted until the hose clamp is removed.
All this started after running with cam bearing coming apart deal, the rod bearings are feed oil though the pinion shaft, and there's no way to really clean trash from the rod bearings unless the crank is rebuilt.
I'm guessing the oil pressure is not up to par and when the oil gets hot and thin, it's too low, it may be sumping somewhat and adding to the oil temp..
He's going to have to go in the cam chest and look around again, see if trash went through the oil pump, check crank runout.
Does the drain plug magnet have metal? also cut the oil filter open to inspect, cut the element top and bottom with a serrated knife, peel it off and stretch it out.
I'm guessing when the tech inserted the cam bearing removal tool, the needles were knocked out into the case.
Tip: I use a hose clamp to compress the removal tool before inserting in the bearing, it doesn't touch the rollers when inserted until the hose clamp is removed.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
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From: College Station, TX
I'd be sure they check runout on the pinion shaft. Excessigve runout is hard on oil pumps and causes premature wear between the gears and pump body, and makes if difficult or impossible to get them aligned correctly. I'd also be curious about the condition of the lifter bores, scoring and wear.
Paul
Paul
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
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From: PA
I'd be sure they check runout on the pinion shaft. Excessigve runout is hard on oil pumps and causes premature wear between the gears and pump body, and makes if difficult or impossible to get them aligned correctly. I'd also be curious about the condition of the lifter bores, scoring and wear.
Paul
Paul
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From: poway
While the relief have has been replaced, it might be worthwhile to replace the cam plate or at the very least, run a 7/16 chucking reamer through the relief have hole then lap the hole with an old releif valve on a stick and some non imbedding lapping compound. There may be a problem with the plate... I know that early SE plates had the issue of the valve sticking. Some of it may be from anodizing inside the relief valve hole.