twin cam sumping?
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: memphis
twin cam sumping?
does sumping cause overheating. i have low oil pressure at idle and my head temps are reaching a max of 290*.
i'm going to pull the cam plate and check the pump orientation and check the oil pump orings. i know i installed the oring inside the cam chest and not on the actual pump. do you guys install the oring in the chest or on the pump.
2012 flhx
thanks
i'm going to pull the cam plate and check the pump orientation and check the oil pump orings. i know i installed the oring inside the cam chest and not on the actual pump. do you guys install the oring in the chest or on the pump.
2012 flhx
thanks
Banned
Joined: Jun 2022
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does sumping cause overheating. i have low oil pressure at idle and my head temps are reaching a max of 290*.
i'm going to pull the cam plate and check the pump orientation and check the oil pump orings. i know i installed the oring inside the cam chest and not on the actual pump. do you guys install the oring in the chest or on the pump.
2012 flhx
thanks
i'm going to pull the cam plate and check the pump orientation and check the oil pump orings. i know i installed the oring inside the cam chest and not on the actual pump. do you guys install the oring in the chest or on the pump.
2012 flhx
thanks
Also check the internals of the oil pump, sometimes excessive crank runout will cause wear or even breaking of the rotors. And check that the bypass valve in the cam plate is not stuck.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
Sumping will definitely result in higher operating temps and the bike should feel like you are dragging an anchor; sluggish perfromance. JMHO but 290* head temp would not keep me awake at night; have seen 350*. Why not check for sumping before opening up the cam chest so you know is the motor is sumping or not? I install the oring on the "snout" of the pump; to easy to displace or otherwise damage the o-ring if installed in the crank case when you can't see what you are doing. For extra sealing at that port, I also install the same oring used on the oil pan drain plug on top of the thicker oring; have been doing that for years.
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Just my 2 cents, I might be completely wrong, would not be the first time
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: memphis
Sumping will definitely result in higher operating temps and the bike should feel like you are dragging an anchor; sluggish perfromance. JMHO but 290* head temp would not keep me awake at night; have seen 350*. Why not check for sumping before opening up the cam chest so you know is the motor is sumping or not? I install the oring on the "snout" of the pump; to easy to displace or otherwise damage the o-ring if installed in the crank case when you can't see what you are doing. For extra sealing at that port, I also install the same oring used on the oil pan drain plug on top of the thicker oring; have been doing that for years.
yeah..the 290* is with my mighty mites running and while moving and the bike normally runs a max of 264* and thats in slow moving traffic. and the bike it definitely low on power. i already drained the oil and removed the cam cover but not the cam plate.
also, there is a very distinct smell like gear oil burning and the only difference in the oils i'm using is the walmart 20w 50w oil i'm using for breakin. plugs look great and no sign of anything burning. i normally use castrol for oil and redline in the tranny and redline shock proof in the primary.
i can smell it even with everything buttoned up. it stinks something awful.
thanks
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Joined: Aug 2019
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From: Unreconstructed
You'll know as soon as you crack the cam case if it's sumprng or not by the amount of oil trapped there. I had the same issue when I did my cams a year or so ago, I picked the wrong O-ring from the kit for the pump "snout". The ID matched and fit perfect, but the OD was too small and caused a gap. I never saw it because I immediately put the ring on the pump, never trying it in the engine case. My suggestion is to fit the O-ring in the case opening first to make sure it's correct, then for install leave it on the pump during insertion to avoid pinching.
I agree on what's been said, the bike had no power. It started to climb in revs but then hit a wall. It stank like oil, and it was running hotter than normal.
I agree on what's been said, the bike had no power. It started to climb in revs but then hit a wall. It stank like oil, and it was running hotter than normal.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
so, you install the smaller oring after installing the oil pump oring on the snout.
yeah..the 290* is with my mighty mites running and while moving and the bike normally runs a max of 264* and thats in slow moving traffic. and the bike it definitely low on power. i already drained the oil and removed the cam cover but not the cam plate. also, there is a very distinct smell like gear oil burning and the only difference in the oils i'm using is the walmart 20w 50w oil i'm using for breakin. plugs look great and no sign of anything burning. i normally use castrol for oil and redline in the tranny and redline shock proof in the primary. i can smell it even with everything buttoned up. it stinks something awful.
thanks
yeah..the 290* is with my mighty mites running and while moving and the bike normally runs a max of 264* and thats in slow moving traffic. and the bike it definitely low on power. i already drained the oil and removed the cam cover but not the cam plate. also, there is a very distinct smell like gear oil burning and the only difference in the oils i'm using is the walmart 20w 50w oil i'm using for breakin. plugs look great and no sign of anything burning. i normally use castrol for oil and redline in the tranny and redline shock proof in the primary. i can smell it even with everything buttoned up. it stinks something awful.
thanks
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Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
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From: memphis
You'll know as soon as you crack the cam case if it's sumprng or not by the amount of oil trapped there. I had the same issue when I did my cams a year or so ago, I picked the wrong O-ring from the kit for the pump "snout". The ID matched and fit perfect, but the OD was too small and caused a gap. I never saw it because I immediately put the ring on the pump, never trying it in the engine case. My suggestion is to fit the O-ring in the case opening first to make sure it's correct, then for install leave it on the pump during insertion to avoid pinching.
I agree on what's been said, the bike had no power. It started to climb in revs but then hit a wall. It stank like oil, and it was running hotter than normal.
I agree on what's been said, the bike had no power. It started to climb in revs but then hit a wall. It stank like oil, and it was running hotter than normal.
@djl , when i opened the cam chest there was clearly more than 6-8oz. it was more like 16oz or more drained from the cam chest.
Last edited by djl; Mar 18, 2024 at 03:55 PM.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: san antonio
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
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From: memphis
i'll be pulling the cam plate this week and checking the pump and plate as well as the oring. is there anything else that could cause it other than the oring.