I have another question. When I align both timing marks on the crank and cam sprocket to get TDC on the rear cylinder, should both lifters for that cylinder be at their lowest point? When I looked inside the lifter cover, it looked like one lifter was slightly higher than the other one (which seemed to be at it's lowest point).

 

Yes they both should be on the base circles, can you push it down?

 

Easiest way for me is to watch or feel intake lifter open then close turn a few more degrees and then install the pushrods, doesn't have to be exactly on TDC as stated before

 

Wow! A perfect example of Occam's razor.
Yes! I guess when I installed the lifter (I coated it with oil), it didn't fall all the way into the passageway. Now, with the timing marks on the crank and cam sprocket aligned, the lifters are at their lowest point and on the base circle of the cam. Thank you!

 

this is how i do it:
remove the plugs
place in 6th gear
place a straw in the cylinder you are working on
turn the rear tire until straw shoots out of the cylinder
retrieve straw from the other side of the garage
insert straw into the cylinder and feel for the piston
rock rear wheel to bring the piston back to the top
repeat on other cylinder

 

Whatever happened to just watching the rear cylinder intake and exhaust lifters going to overlap, which would be spin the motor over with the rear wheel in 6th gear watch the intake lifter come up and go down. continue spinning the rear wheel to watch the exhaust lifter go up an them start to go down.. as the exhaust lifter on the rear cylinder starts to go down you will see the intake lifter starting to come up at the same time, This would be the overlap.. stop spinning the rear wheels when the two lifters are even in the lifter bores stop turning the wheel and at this point you can install an adjust the front push rods to their desired preload any wears from 0.125" to 0.140".... To do the rear cylinder you would put the front cylinder in overlap the same way and then install an adjust the rear cylinder pushrods.. no guessing..

 

@memphisharley
I'm not understanding how this above procedure ensures that TDC is on the compression stroke.

It's just a lack of confidence on my ability since I have very little experience in this area. The fear of adjusting the pushrods while the piston isn't at TDC on the compression stroke is rather large. Also, working with the bike on a motorcycle jack, I'm on the floor, trying to spin the rear wheel and place my fingers inside the lifters is a job for a contortionist. If I had a helper, this would be much easier.
Anyways, I got it done.

I'd like to thank everyone for their help!

 

When I do go by the TDC method I use a straw in the cylinder to verify the piston is up.. just make sure you also watch the intake lifter go up the down, once down and the straw full up and mostly out of the spark plug hole you know you're very close.. It doesn't have to be exact.. After putting the preload on the lifter make sure you wait till you can freely spin the pushrod. After tht you can move on to the other cylinder without worry.. .125" of preload works very well.

 

the compression is what throws the straw out of the spark plug hole to the other side of the garage.

 

What are you running a diesel?

When tearing an engine down i stick my finger in hole to feel pressure. Also do straw. I then feel pushrods spin freely with no tension

They use to make something that would screw in spark plug hole and rise and fall . Waste of money to some. But would be cool gizmo