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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Bike runs great. '05 Heritage TC88 with stage one setup, #48 pilot, other jets stock, idle mix plug removed and screw is about 3 or so turns out for it to finally quit popping back or stalling at lights. (still does now and then)
Today she acted like a partially fouled plug, missing at idle, low throttle and lower rpms on one cylinder. She'd done this once before for about 2 miles until I stopped and never again for the last 1000 or so miles, but did again today.
I had an autolite 4813 I think (crossover number, whatever it was) in the bag, and pulling plug wires found the bad cylinder and the new plug had it running again.
What is odd to me is that she felt ...funny...for maybe 10 miles, but then began running more assured; stronger in a way, and had low rpm torque return. It was sort of like she was trying to foul off the other plug or didn't like the new one all that well...but she only has 5000 miles on her, total. It wasn't real bad, but something just wasn't right.
I'm leaning toward plug wires, but what do you guys think? I just can't stand anything short of perfection and don't want to spend runtime on the side of the road spinning cold wrenches.
New plugs for sure. A quick trick to check the wires, take a test lead, hook one clip to a good ground, attach the other clip to a skinny screw driver with a good handle, run the blade near each wire, you will see a spark jump if you have a bad wire. have a look inside the boot also, if you see any corrosion on the metal plug retainer taus the wires. Good luck.
Thanx. I'll probably get a new set anyway. Hey, I put Autolite plugs in...they don't make a plug socket for them (11/16")! So I bent an old wrench, cut off the open end and smoothed it, now it takes less space and weighs less than the sockets.
I have the wires covered in plastic chrome covers from Pep Boys. I'll check for conductivity in that too, now that you've given me some direction. I guess that didn't occur to me since it was running great before.
For sure new plugs,wires are cheap enough.I did the Sportster needle trick on mine with stock jets,idle screw out about three turns,all the popping and crap went away.Runs like a stripped *** ape! Joe Minton was right on the money.
On the carburetor side you may want to go up one more on the pilot and may be one notch on the needle, A lean condition can also cause a misfire and those 2 adjustments center on the idle and midrange fuel flow.
You're probably right about his pilot, but the sportster needle I bought has no notches to go up with. My pilot is a 48 and I actually peened out the tower holes with a vise and a sewing machine needle - and it's still a bit lean at idle with the adj. screw 3-4 turns out.
I talked to 2 shops and they said they've never had to put a 50 in for anyone with just SE pipes and stage 1 cleaners. I can't find a vacuum leak anywhere, so I've left it as is. Just pops now and then, stalls once in a while at idle. Irritating but livable.
I'm thinking when the weather gets warm it'll be just right.
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