When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
Hello , I'm new to the HD. Purchased my first HD 3 weeks ago. 2007 Ultra Classic. I have been doing a bit of reading. The service manual calls for using a Loctite Anti-Seize when changing the spark plugs. Think they are refering to the Stick # 37616 Copper. Any thoughts on this ? And what do you use ?
Anytime you have two dissimilar metals attaching to one another you open the door to corrosion. Now I've never noticed a good chrome ever do that, but usually even with those types of parts the threads are not coated as well and thats the point of contact to worry about. Might as well get at least a large container of silver Anti-Seize for general applications. For electrical connections like battery terminals I use the copper type. Stops corrosion, but if overused can be very messy. For small electrical connections I use dielectric grease. Either application helps keep water and moisture out, and with today's electronics, thats a big plus.
With either product remember, a little goes a lonngg way.
I use the silver....I never used anything before but a slight coat of oil but I noticed some serious resistance when I yanked the plugs last time and I was praying I didnt have a problem getting it out. Since then I used the silver.
So whats the differance between the copper and the silver besides the obvious?
I use a lot anti-seize on bolts over the years, but never have used it on spark plugs. I was concerned about the graphite content in some of the Loctite products. Thanks for all the input ! Clem
I have always just coated the plug threads with oil, and never had a problem. I use grease on the wheel axles also, instead of anti seize. Never had a problem with those either. That was standard procedure in my old 84 Sporty manual, but I realize we are talking about steel to alloy on the later engines, as far as spark plugs go. If I ever have a problem with just oil on the threads, I will probably change to anti seize.
I am an old drop-of-oil-on-the-plug-threads guy too. Never have had one seize. I am not opposed to the anti-seize either and if I could ever think about it while I am in the parts house...I'd probably purchase some, but so far the oil has worked for me.
The anti sceze is a good preventive measure so you don't damage the threads in the head. Use it on the first few threads and don't apply excessive amounts.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.