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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
I am, at best, a shade tree mechanic, but always trying to improve. I've adjusted the pushrods in my 1994 Nostalgia quite a few times and haven't had a problem until this last time. I seem to be getting a lot of top end noise. I watched a YouTube video from S&S to see if I've been doing something wrong. I've never waited for the lifter to bleed down before adjusting the other rod (on the same cylinder, of course. For instance, adjust the intake and then the exhaust.). It was unclear on the video if you need to wait for one lifter to bleed down before adjusting its opposite rod (Again, same cylinder, of course.). It doesn't seem like this would be necessary, but is it? Thanks to all.
They should both be bottomed out at the same time if you do it right. My 97 heritage always sounds like an industrial sewing machine no matter how you adjust it.
Right. What I meant to say is that once I've adjusted, say, the intake pushrod on the front cylinder I don't need for the lifter to bleed down before adjusting the exhaust pushrod, right?
I guess I have to expect some clatter out of an HD engine with 90+M miles on it. Thanks for clearing up the ambiguity in the S&S video.
Sometimes the clatter is caused by excess gear backlash between the pinion gear and the cam gear. This can be due to wear on the outer cam bushing.
It will sound like valve clatter.
My `89 has over 140k on it and it is very quiet (EV27 cam and OEM pushrods). I replaced the bushing (actually the entire cam cover) at about 90k, I didn`t really notice how much clatter there was, until it was gone.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Mar 17, 2012 at 07:19 AM.
Thanks for the informative, although unwelcome (after looking at the pricing at JP Cycle) information. I have a tech manual and will check the tolerances and replace if necessary.
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