120R: High Performance Mods
I just purchased a new 2014 Electra Glide Ultra Classic. Upon delivery, had them yank the 103 and install the 120R along with all the necessary upgrades that this motor needs, cluth, throttle body, etc., even purchased the over sized oil pan to keep it cool as well as Jims USA "Force Flow" for additional cooling.
Has anyone else used a 2014 120R and made performance modifications to the factory crate motor before or after installation? Not interested in hearing about ProCharger or blowers, turbos, bold ons. etc., but actual engine work? I'm also not interested in going 190mph, just want more torque on the low end of gears.
Thank you in advance to the guys that chime in...
God Bless,
Sean
Has anyone else used a 2014 120R and made performance modifications to the factory crate motor before or after installation? Not interested in hearing about ProCharger or blowers, turbos, bold ons. etc., but actual engine work? I'm also not interested in going 190mph, just want more torque on the low end of gears.
Thank you in advance to the guys that chime in...
God Bless,
Sean
Throw whatever lifters that are in there in the trash. Buy S&S, Gatermans, Black Ops.
Cam is more related to top end. LOTS of guys like TMans 662-2s. I am going to try a set of Fueling 590s and will report back later.
Get rid of the lifters!!!!! Also, don't bother with Woods lifters either. I, myself, have had excellent luck with Gatermans.
Stock, the compression is around 10.2:1. CCP with the 662s will be right at 174.
If... you are willing to do a proper upgrade and eliminate known issues? Bore it .010 over and buy pistons from GMR performance that increase the comp a bit. Those 662s simply shine with more comp.
Mine is 100% stock. (except for lifters)
The key to this, and I cannot stress it enough, is to have a very good spot on tune. NO PV autotune crap. A real live TTS dyno tune by someone GOOD. I think Dave works at Pocono HD, in PA. Wherever he works, now THAT would be where I would get a tune if I was living in NJ.
You will simply love this, as I do... I am sure.
Oh, do NOT use a SE clutch, that will kill you. Pro Clutch is kind of chintzy. Get a Bandit Sportsman.
PS... on a big block, those fans don't do much except blow hot air back over the jugs and heads... right at the temp sensor. They cool the sensor more than they cool the engine. Pan upgrade is good, and ditch the MOCO oil cooler and get a decent Jagg cooler instead.
I have had my 120r for a couple years now. Lifters ARE a big issue with this, everything else is either decent or good enough to start out with. Later engines have been reported with out of round cylinders. With the 58mm throttle body, get a MINIMUM of 5.3 injectors too.
Decent exhaust will play into this. more than anything. Get a V&H set of x pipes and some Crusher mellows from Kury. Or... go loud with a set of D&Ds or an older thunder header. Shorty pipes (that is ALL the rage) will NOT help, nor do they make any power where you will be riding.
Cam is more related to top end. LOTS of guys like TMans 662-2s. I am going to try a set of Fueling 590s and will report back later.
Get rid of the lifters!!!!! Also, don't bother with Woods lifters either. I, myself, have had excellent luck with Gatermans.
Stock, the compression is around 10.2:1. CCP with the 662s will be right at 174.
If... you are willing to do a proper upgrade and eliminate known issues? Bore it .010 over and buy pistons from GMR performance that increase the comp a bit. Those 662s simply shine with more comp.
Mine is 100% stock. (except for lifters)
The key to this, and I cannot stress it enough, is to have a very good spot on tune. NO PV autotune crap. A real live TTS dyno tune by someone GOOD. I think Dave works at Pocono HD, in PA. Wherever he works, now THAT would be where I would get a tune if I was living in NJ.
You will simply love this, as I do... I am sure.
Oh, do NOT use a SE clutch, that will kill you. Pro Clutch is kind of chintzy. Get a Bandit Sportsman.
PS... on a big block, those fans don't do much except blow hot air back over the jugs and heads... right at the temp sensor. They cool the sensor more than they cool the engine. Pan upgrade is good, and ditch the MOCO oil cooler and get a decent Jagg cooler instead.
I have had my 120r for a couple years now. Lifters ARE a big issue with this, everything else is either decent or good enough to start out with. Later engines have been reported with out of round cylinders. With the 58mm throttle body, get a MINIMUM of 5.3 injectors too.
Decent exhaust will play into this. more than anything. Get a V&H set of x pipes and some Crusher mellows from Kury. Or... go loud with a set of D&Ds or an older thunder header. Shorty pipes (that is ALL the rage) will NOT help, nor do they make any power where you will be riding.
Last edited by wurk_truk; Mar 11, 2014 at 04:04 PM.
Our go-to set up for those 120R in touring trim have been a Wood 9F cam, re-work the heads, attend to the crank(or the owner can ship it out), and a 66mm S&S Throttle Hog with a Borezilla exhaust.
Once tuned, point it straight and pull the trigger.
Scott
Once tuned, point it straight and pull the trigger.
Scott
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Seems the newer motors may have somewhat of a crank issue? I cannot speak to that directly. I am going to give the Fueling 590s a go first, then I could try the 598s?
Too busy at Honda to do much of anything right now.
Too busy at Honda to do much of anything right now.
Hope you don't mind, I'd like to jump in on your bandwagon! I just took delivery of a 2014 Street Glide 120r, sounds like the same deal as yours, but mine was pre-installed. I need to find out what all is in this motor, I don't know if they did anything extra to it, but I assume it's stock; I have V&H Stainless HO 2-1-2 Duals; dealer put 300 miles on it and did a rough Dyno, while I'm still learning about all this stuff, my power is mostly in the mid to top end. It's been snowing since I got the bike, so haven't rode it yet. Just trying to learn everything I can. Glad to see someone else is at the same place I am. Nice!!


