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88" upgrade

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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 12:45 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by hell hound
I don't know enough about this to know what an unacceptable amount is. It just seemed like something worth knowing before putti g a couple thousand dollars on top of it. If it is pointless to check it if I'm going to use chain drive cams anyway then I don't want to waste my time or money thinking about it and I will just start shop in for 98" parts.
It is not pointless to check; poor choice of words in my previous. It would be good to have a runout baseline for future reference regardless of whether or not you go with gear or chain drive cams. Sorry for the confusing comment in my last post.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2014 | 01:58 PM
  #12  
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We're doing a 03 RK hear now that when we pulled the top end off and cams out at 85,000 miles he had .004" run out but the rods had zero free play which means they were stretched out of round so the crank came out for inspection. No damage to the parts, we lapped the big ends of the rods back into round which gave them .001" clearance (perfect), plugged and welded the crank, and back in the cases it went.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #13  
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You may go from a mild build which is just changing out the jugs and heads to going with polish and ported heads, larger jugs, cams, tuner, exhaust the whole deal. It is all based on your style of riding and how large of a disposable fund are at your fingers. It requires a lot of research on your part and the will to take your time and not rush into the first thing you hear about. They have some top notch builders that are on this forum. If you have an 88 and wish to keep your lower end and cases then the best bet is to use the S&S 97"build rather than boring your own jugs. The reason for that is the S&S cylinders are heavier with more and thicker cooling fins plus thicker liners. This will give you more metal to cool the motor. The stock cylinders have a tendency to run hot when bored past 95". Do your homework. Later Fairshake
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:43 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Fairshake
You may go from a mild build which is just changing out the jugs and heads to going with polish and ported heads, larger jugs, cams, tuner, exhaust the whole deal. It is all based on your style of riding and how large of a disposable fund are at your fingers. It requires a lot of research on your part and the will to take your time and not rush into the first thing you hear about. They have some top notch builders that are on this forum. If you have an 88 and wish to keep your lower end and cases then the best bet is to use the S&S 97"build rather than boring your own jugs. The reason for that is the S&S cylinders are heavier with more and thicker cooling fins plus thicker liners. This will give you more metal to cool the motor. The stock cylinders have a tendency to run hot when bored past 95". Do your homework. Later Fairshake

at this point i am leaning toward keeping cases and crank stock. i have a power commander3 and a bub 7 2-1 exhaust. i think i will just be needing to increase displacement and macth headwork to cams. i would like to reuse my 37's but it is not a big deal if i need to change cams

i had always heard that it was better to have your cylinders and heads reworked than to buy a kit. or better yet do some some of exchange program but i never really thought about the heat displacement.

one thing is for sure i have alot of time to figure it out. i have some big expenses coming up so i dont think ill be able to really do anything till next winter. in texas, that is like 2 weeks in febuary.

i know there are some great venders around here that can steer me in the right direction and hook me up with a good tried and true package
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 01:53 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by hell hound
at this point i am leaning toward keeping cases and crank stock. i have a power commander3 and a bub 7 2-1 exhaust. i think i will just be needing to increase displacement and macth headwork to cams. i would like to reuse my 37's but it is not a big deal if i need to change cams

i had always heard that it was better to have your cylinders and heads reworked than to buy a kit. or better yet do some some of exchange program but i never really thought about the heat displacement.

i know there are some great venders around here that can steer me in the right direction and hook me up with a good tried and true package
Don't worry about the additional heat generated from a set of bored cylinders. I run a hipo 107" motor in my '02 FLHT in south Texas; further south than your neck of the woods. The OEM cylinders have been re-sleeved and bored to 4.125". Does it run hotter than my 95" softail in the south Texas summer heat? Yes it does. Does it run so much hotter that I have to worry about it? No it does not. Nothing wrong with boring your OEM cylinders to 98" and the exchange deal you refer to with one of the forum vendors is a great idea. Professionals that have built/tuned probably every configuration imaginable and can help you develop a plan that will have predictable results.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 10:56 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by djl
Don't worry about the additional heat generated from a set of bored cylinders. I run a hipo 107" motor in my '02 FLHT in south Texas; further south than your neck of the woods. The OEM cylinders have been re-sleeved and bored to 4.125". Does it run hotter than my 95" softail in the south Texas summer heat? Yes it does. Does it run so much hotter that I have to worry about it? No it does not. Nothing wrong with boring your OEM cylinders to 98" and the exchange deal you refer to with one of the forum vendors is a great idea. Professionals that have built/tuned probably every configuration imaginable and can help you develop a plan that will have predictable results.

this really what i would like to do. Im not going to try and reinvent the wheel here. I have never done any sort of exchange program but in my mind it would be best if a vender could but together a package deal, cylinders, pistons,heads, cams, etc. based on how i will be riding and what i want out of the motor. Do they just charge some sort of core charge untill i do the work and then i could send them my stock parts.

what other components should i be looking at replaceing/updateing while im in there?

im ready to come up with a real plan so i have something to work towards.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by hell hound
this really what i would like to do. Im not going to try and reinvent the wheel here. I have never done any sort of exchange program but in my mind it would be best if a vender could but together a package deal, cylinders, pistons,heads, cams, etc. based on how i will be riding and what i want out of the motor. Do they just charge some sort of core charge untill i do the work and then i could send them my stock parts.

what other components should i be looking at replaceing/updateing while im in there?

im ready to come up with a real plan so i have something to work towards.
Yes on the core charge; the vendor will refund the core charge as soon as they receive and inspect your cores to confirm that they are in good condition.

Gear drive cams woud be worth the time and effort but not a must have. The '06 Dynas have the hydraulic tensioner/roller chain setup but if you don't want install gear drives, upgrade the cam plate/pump to the 25282-11 billet plate and pump; a little cheaper than gears and a nice upgrade.

You have already upgrade the inner cam bearings but I would probably plan on replacing them as part of the plan.

Replace the head breathers with the '10 up stamped breathers; PN26500002.

Replace valve lifters; many options depending on budget. CompCams VThunder 850-1 lifters will run about $60 a set; Gaterman, Woods and new S&S Premium lifters will run more, up to $275 or thereabouts.

You already have the SE Quick Adjust Tapered are decent; they shoud be fine.

Have compression setup based on .0030" head gasket.

Not a must do but I would consider replacing the PC3 with the TTS Mastertune.

I don't know much about the Bub exhaust but at least it is a 2:1 system.

We are talking top end upgrade, so other than the vendor's packag, cam plate upgrade, lifters, head breathers, gaskets and oil, I can't think of much else.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 08:04 AM
  #18  
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the cam plate and oil pump upgrade that you listed, i assume the actually tensioners dont come with it,. Are all tensioners equal? Are the stock replace ment the best option?

I have heard from a few people that know about exhausts that the bub 7 2-1 is "not bad" and wouldn't be there first choice but will be fine. So i think i will plan on sticking with it for this. I bought it a few years ago when JP was having a closeout for $350 shipped

Last time i had my bike tuned at the Aprilla dealership in New Braunfels and he did a good job. He keep it for a few days and put about 80 miles on the odometer tuning it. plus i am moving to NB (actually this week) and it is less than a mile from the house. I think he charged $300. if i remember right he said he was happy working with the pc3.

http://www.parts4powertoys.com/en/products/details/8--7
These are the lifters i put in 30,000 miles ago when i installed the andrews 37's. the v-2313s. Should i replace these?

I did not see much info on the head breather. Just did a quicky search , so i will look more into it later

Seems to make since to replace inner cams bearings at this point, like you recommended. Last time i had a ggod friend at an HD dealerdhip that loned me the inner cam bearing tool and some other goodies. no longer have that hook up so will have to find other ways of getting it done. when i rebuilt my tranny i bought some specilty tools from Heartland for really cheap and they seems pretty nice for the do it yourselfer. It was the mainshaft race puller/installer and pully nut socket. they were a fraction of the price HD asked so maybe they have some stuff to help me out here too
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:14 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by hell hound
the cam plate and oil pump upgrade that you listed, i assume the actually tensioners dont come with it,. Are all tensioners equal? Are the stock replace ment the best option?
All the hardware from your cam plate will interchange. The only option to the OEM tensioners is the one from Zippers.

Originally Posted by hell hound
I have heard from a few people that know about exhausts that the bub 7 2-1 is "not bad" and wouldn't be there first choice but will be fine. So i think i will plan on sticking with it for this. I bought it a few years ago when JP was having a closeout for $350 shipped.
I did the same on Python 3 set back in '07. Replaced it with a Propipe just to see if any gain and nada; put the Python back on and will be selling the Propipe.


Last time i had my bike tuned at the Aprilla dealership in New Braunfels and he did a good job. He keep it for a few days and put about 80 miles on the odometer tuning it. plus i am moving to NB (actually this week) and it is less than a mile from the house. I think he charged $300. if i remember right he said he was happy working with the pc3.
You should think about taking the bike over to Lozano Brothers just outside NB for tuning. Mike Lozano tunes for Gruene HD, Javelina HD and Cowboys/Alamo HD. Mike is one of the best tuners in the country. He has a dyno day every second Saturday of the month where he will do a couple of pulls on your bike to see the tune; he doesn't tune that day but owners can see the TQ/HP numbers. Burgers and soft drinks; metrics and Harleys; not a bad place to waste a couple of hours on a Saturday.

Originally Posted by hell hound
http://www.parts4powertoys.com/en/products/details/8--7
These are the lifters i put in 30,000 miles ago when i installed the andrews 37's. the v-2313s. Should i replace these?
Don't know anything about those lifters but, like inner cam bearings, why not replace? However, if your valve train is quiet and the lifters are performing, replacement is optional and your call.

Originally Posted by hell hound
I did not see much info on the head breather. Just did a quicky search , so i will look more into it later
Trust me on this one; they are cheap and worth the $15 or so that it will cost to replace.

Seems to make since to replace inner cams bearings at this point, like you recommended. Last time i had a ggod friend at an HD dealerdhip that loned me the inner cam bearing tool and some other goodies. no longer have that hook up so will have to find other ways of getting it done. when i rebuilt my tranny i bought some specilty tools from Heartland for really cheap and they seems pretty nice for the do it yourselfer. It was the mainshaft race puller/installer and pully nut socket. they were a fraction of the price HD asked so maybe they have some stuff to help me out here too
You can use the "caveman" method to R/R inner cam bearings if you can't get your hands on tools. You could use mine but both my bikes are early models and my tool won't work on later models. Auto Zone will rent a blind hole puller; just make sure the right size collet is in the kit. You can install the inner bearings using an old cam shaft. Freeze the bearings over night, use assembly lube in the bearing boss and on the bearing cage, tap them in with numbers facing out.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 05:45 AM
  #20  
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I am all done with the move and ready to start thinkin about this again. I am thinkin of going to Lazano to check it out. If they still do the second saterday on the month that would be may 10. I will try to go that day.

Maybe Lazano is the way to go for the whole deal? Seems worth takin to them to see what they offer and i do like dealin local so that would be nice

I dont really want to jump on the first deal someone offers, so i probobly be getting some options
 
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