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Twincam no oil to top end / rockers.

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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:07 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by f4dennis
So, million dollar question .. would this prevent oil from getting to the top end?

I would think a stuck valve that is closed and 40+ psi should be pumping oil into the lifters and up the push rods into the rockers with out problems.

I appreciate the responses guys. Been racking my head over this.
Agree. See my previous. How long have you let the motor run waiting to see oil up top?
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Takes more time than folks suspect, to have the oil upstairs
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
Agree. See my previous. How long have you let the motor run waiting to see oil up top?
I have started it 4 times for a minute or 2. First time doing this type of work so I have been a little gun shy just letting it run while hearing the top end chatter so bad.

I spoke to a mechanic yesterday, and he thinks it just needs more time to get up there. He also said to bring the RPM up a little till the oil gets up there and the noise goes away.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by f4dennis
I have started it 4 times for a minute or 2. First time doing this type of work so I have been a little gun shy just letting it run while hearing the top end chatter so bad.

I spoke to a mechanic yesterday, and he thinks it just needs more time to get up there. He also said to bring the RPM up a little till the oil gets up there and the noise goes away.
Bingo! That shoud have been the first question I asked but got off on the PRV tangent. I agree with the tech. Of the noise does not go away completely once the oil is up top, lifters might want more preload. Those heavier springs will also add to the symphony.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:29 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by djl
Bingo! That shoud have been the first question I asked but got off on the PRV tangent. I agree with the tech. Of the noise does not go away completely once the oil is up top, lifters might want more preload. Those heavier springs will also add to the symphony.
Right on, I will give it a try this weekend. Readjusting the push rods was the first thing I did. SE push rods, 2 1/2 full turns was recommended in the instructions. I went a head and went 3 full turns so I should be around .140 preload.

Thanks for the help.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 12:58 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by f4dennis
Right on, I will give it a try this weekend. Readjusting the push rods was the first thing I did. SE push rods, 2 1/2 full turns was recommended in the instructions. I went a head and went 3 full turns so I should be around .140 preload.

Thanks for the help.
Not sure which SE pushrods you have but if the tapered quick installs, IIRC, those are 24TPI so 3 turns would set preload at .125". Most go to 3.5 turns on those pushrods but if quiet at 3; no worries. Good luck.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 01:30 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by djl
If the valve is open, oil pressure should read +/-35psi; the valve is designed to open at 35psi and excess oil bypasses and flows back to the feed side of the pump. However, if the valve is stuck closed, there is no way for the excess oil flow to bypass and return to the feed side of the pump. Remember that the OP has installed the SE plate with the high capacity pump so the pressure reading could show 40psi if the valve is stuck closed.
True, at 35psi the prv starts to crack open but on start up the pressure will never get up at all with a wide open prv. In my case, I was never able to get the oil pressure light to extinguish when I was trying to prime my engine before starting. That oil pressure light goes out at about 2 psi IIRC, and it never went out for me until that Axtell bypass plunger was pulled out and treated like you mentioned, then the light went out and I was ready to roll. That prv needs to be closed on start up and idle or there is just an open loop and no pressure to be had.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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The short answer is located in post #12.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 03:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by alansummrs
True, at 35psi the prv starts to crack open but on start up the pressure will never get up at all with a wide open prv. In my case, I was never able to get the oil pressure light to extinguish when I was trying to prime my engine before starting. That oil pressure light goes out at about 2 psi IIRC, and it never went out for me until that Axtell bypass plunger was pulled out and treated like you mentioned, then the light went out and I was ready to roll. That prv needs to be closed on start up and idle or there is just an open loop and no pressure to be had.
We do not have a disagreement on the function of the PRV. However, to clarify, I have never suggested that the PRV was stuck open.
 
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Old May 15, 2014 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by djl
We do not have a disagreement on the function of the PRV. However, to clarify, I have never suggested that the PRV was stuck open.
It's all good, you are one of my favorite sources for good info - just making sure I have it right too, always learning!
 
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