Adjusting Pushrods PITA
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 16
From: Texas
Adjusting Pushrods PITA
I just completed a stage 2 upgrade on my 2010 streetglide. Went with Compcams lifters, s&s adjustable pushrods (NOT quickies) and Andrews 48 cams.
The upgrade was smooth sailing up until the pushrod installation. What a pita it was getting the rear cylinder intake in. Finally get them install and moved onto adjusting. Speaking with s&s rep they said back out 4 turns from 0 lash.
Allow hours for bleed down and button everything up and start her up and have a rather loud clanking noise. I collapse pushrods and start the adjustment process all over. jack up, 6th gear, rotate tire by hand, exhaust lifts, drops down, intake lifts, drops down, then I make adjustment. 0 lash, no up and down movement then turn out 3 turns 2 flats this time. Let rear cylinder pushrods bleed down until you can turn each rod with fingers. Then move onto front cylinder.
Did I miss anything here? Any easier or sure fire way to nail adjustment first time around?
Second go around I just collapsed pushrods and didnt remove one set while adjusting the other. I figured collapsed should not interfere. Your thoughts?
The upgrade was smooth sailing up until the pushrod installation. What a pita it was getting the rear cylinder intake in. Finally get them install and moved onto adjusting. Speaking with s&s rep they said back out 4 turns from 0 lash.
Allow hours for bleed down and button everything up and start her up and have a rather loud clanking noise. I collapse pushrods and start the adjustment process all over. jack up, 6th gear, rotate tire by hand, exhaust lifts, drops down, intake lifts, drops down, then I make adjustment. 0 lash, no up and down movement then turn out 3 turns 2 flats this time. Let rear cylinder pushrods bleed down until you can turn each rod with fingers. Then move onto front cylinder.
Did I miss anything here? Any easier or sure fire way to nail adjustment first time around?
Second go around I just collapsed pushrods and didnt remove one set while adjusting the other. I figured collapsed should not interfere. Your thoughts?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
Not sure I follow "back out" or "turn out", sounds like you are going the wrong way but I assume you are not and you are turning to extend the pushrod and set the lifter pre load.
You could be adjusting with the cams in the overlap position, i.e., piston not at TDC on the compression stroke. Start over, collapse all pushrods, remove spark plugs and ground them. Rotate rear wheel until you have a cylinder on the compression stroke (hold your finger over the spark plug hole or close it with a shop rag. When you feel the pressure or the rag gets blown out, slowly rotate the rear wheel until the piston is at, or near, TDC. You can use a plastic straw to watch the piston travel. When at TDC, adjust the pushrods for that cylinder. If S&S says 4 turns, use 4 turns, not 3 turns and 2 flats. Let the lifters bleed down. Rinse and repeat for the second cylinder.
You could be adjusting with the cams in the overlap position, i.e., piston not at TDC on the compression stroke. Start over, collapse all pushrods, remove spark plugs and ground them. Rotate rear wheel until you have a cylinder on the compression stroke (hold your finger over the spark plug hole or close it with a shop rag. When you feel the pressure or the rag gets blown out, slowly rotate the rear wheel until the piston is at, or near, TDC. You can use a plastic straw to watch the piston travel. When at TDC, adjust the pushrods for that cylinder. If S&S says 4 turns, use 4 turns, not 3 turns and 2 flats. Let the lifters bleed down. Rinse and repeat for the second cylinder.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
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From: san antonio
TPI Flats Distance Per Turn Per Flat
24 15 .1042" .0417" .0069"
28 17 .1011" .0357" .0059"
32 18 .0937" .0313" .0052"
36 21 .0965" .0275" .0045"
40 24 .100" .025" .0042"
52 30 .0962" .0192" .0032"
So, do the math and set lifter preload at about .120"-.130" by following the procedure outlined in my previous post.
Scott makes a good point. In initial startup, you will get some clatter as the lifters pump up and push oil to the rockers, even if properly adusted. You may have had the pushrods adjusted properly but just didn't let the motor run long enough for the oil to reach the rockers and stop the clatter; shouldn't take more than a minute or so though.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 9,741
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From: Danbury CT
When I first did mine I got a lot of ticking which is normal for cams but I adjusted them an extra 2-4 flats (don't exactly remember) & they really quieted down. That was 2 years ago. Running fine since.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 16
From: Texas
The first adjustment was pretty loud and I let it idle for quite a bit. The second adjustment was much better, but still light tapping. According to your info above, I should be turning out 3 turns only, as the pr's are 32 tpi. Im going to see if I can dial that in either tonight or tomorrow and see if that helps any.
I appreciate the feedback and patience. Ill get it, hopefully sooner than later.
I appreciate the feedback and patience. Ill get it, hopefully sooner than later.
The preload on the lifter is a direct function of the number of turns and the number of turns to achieve a specific preload is a direct function of the threads per inch (TPI) of the pushrod.
TPI Flats Distance Per Turn Per Flat
24 15 .1042" .0417" .0069"
28 17 .1011" .0357" .0059"
32 18 .0937" .0313" .0052"
36 21 .0965" .0275" .0045"
40 24 .100" .025" .0042"
52 30 .0962" .0192" .0032"
So, do the math and set lifter preload at about .120"-.130" by following the procedure outlined in my previous post.
Scott makes a good point. In initial startup, you will get some clatter as the lifters pump up and push oil to the rockers, even if properly adusted. You may have had the pushrods adjusted properly but just didn't let the motor run long enough for the oil to reach the rockers and stop the clatter; shouldn't take more than a minute or so though.
TPI Flats Distance Per Turn Per Flat
24 15 .1042" .0417" .0069"
28 17 .1011" .0357" .0059"
32 18 .0937" .0313" .0052"
36 21 .0965" .0275" .0045"
40 24 .100" .025" .0042"
52 30 .0962" .0192" .0032"
So, do the math and set lifter preload at about .120"-.130" by following the procedure outlined in my previous post.
Scott makes a good point. In initial startup, you will get some clatter as the lifters pump up and push oil to the rockers, even if properly adusted. You may have had the pushrods adjusted properly but just didn't let the motor run long enough for the oil to reach the rockers and stop the clatter; shouldn't take more than a minute or so though.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,774
Likes: 2,606
From: san antonio
The first adjustment was pretty loud and I let it idle for quite a bit. The second adjustment was much better, but still light tapping. According to your info above, I should be turning out 3 turns only, as the pr's are 32 tpi. Im going to see if I can dial that in either tonight or tomorrow and see if that helps any.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,317
Likes: 16
From: Texas
Now being I had bike out to test ride this morning and have about 30 miles on it do I still need to wait for bleed down between cylinder pr adjustments? or will the lifters already be filled? Does this change anything in regards to number of turns etc? Thanks again.