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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
So, I have a 2008 CVO Dyna and I'm looking to start gathering the parts for an engine build. I've been looking at the S&S cylinder and piston kits in the new granite color to match my engine. They offer it in both a 117" and a 124", the price is the same for either one. So, what if any extra work would need to be done if I opted to go for the 124" as opposed to the 117"? The bottom end is going to be sent off to Darkhorse so the crank can be worked and to also have the Timken setup installed, so that part is taken care of. With that being said, is there anything else that would need to be addressed if I was going to go with the 124" setup? Is the installed height of the engine the same as the current 110? Just want to make sure it would actually fit, this would be my first venture into building a V-twin engine. Is there anything to be gained by having my stock 110 SE heads worked over, or would I be wasting money at that point? I've heard and read that they flow pretty well as it is. I know I'll have to address the clutch (any recommendations are greatly appreciated) and probably a new throttle body and injectors.
This bike is a toy that gets ridden when I'm home from overseas, not much into touring, but will go for a few hundred miles on occasion. It spends the majority of the time blasting around town and generally just having a good time on it. The current engine is making a bunch of noise, it runs hot and of course runs out of steam after 4K rpm (from my understanding the SE255 cams are the culprit here). I'm of the mind that if I'm going to open it up to address the noise and heat issues, I'm going to just do a build.
Alright scratch the 124" motor, I just finished reading the info on the S&S page and it mentions the 4 5/8" crank to make that work since it runs a 4 1/8" bore as well. Looks like the 117" will be the ticket so I can stick with my crank (after it gets fixed).
So does anyone have any input on the heads? Is it worth the money to have the SE heads worked over? The bike only has 2700 miles on it, so I'm not sure if there's anything that needs to be addressed like a valve job, port work etc. I've read that these heads already have decent flow numbers, so I'm not sure if it's worth it to have them done. If there's power to be had and reliability, then I don't have a problem spending the money.
It's worth getting those 110 done up there is more to be had in them. contact Scott @ Hillside cycle they have had great results with those heads. and the stroke of the 117& 124 though was the same I would go for the 124!!! That's what I should have done!!
Last edited by target64; Jul 28, 2014 at 07:21 PM.
we use a lot of 110 heads on different builds (pretty much on all our 124" builds).just remember,they have larger combustion chambers than most other heads,so you`ll either need a good size domed pistons or they need to be milled to get decent compression ratio`s
It's worth getting those 110 done up there is more to be had in them. contact Scott @ Hillside cycle they have had great results with those heads. and the stroke of the 117& 124 are the same 4.375 cost the same to do go for the 124!!! That's what I should have done!!
On the S&S website, it shows the 117 and 124 with the same bore size and different strokes. Could be a typo, but that's what it shows (117 4 1/8" bore and 4 3/8" stroke, 124 4 1/8" bore and 4/58" stroke).
I'll give Hillside a call when I get back from this deployment, trying to gather all the info and parts I can before I get home.
we use a lot of 110 heads on different builds (pretty much on all our 124" builds).just remember,they have larger combustion chambers than most other heads,so you`ll either need a good size domed pistons or they need to be milled to get decent compression ratio`s
Yeah, I read that in a few places. So, it looks like I'll just run the S&S cylinders and look into a different piston since the S&S kit shows a 10:1 compression with the 95cc SE heads using the pistons in their kit, would prefer something in 10.5 to 11:1 compression range.
Either going with a 117" or 124" it wouldn't be a bad idea to look into having your cases and crank set up for Timken tapered bearing. Either way it should be fun. I'm in the middle of installing a S&S 124 build in my bike.
By the time you have the crank balanced, welded/plugged, with an H-Beam rod, vs the taper-top rod, the price is almost the same as the S&S 4 5/8" crank.
We've built many of those 124"ers using 110" heads.
A good t/body such as one from Horsepower Inc, and say a D&D Borezilla, or Rush 2/1 will bring it all togather.
A Barnett clutch spring and a VPV 92T lock-up hat will cover the clutch needs.
Scott
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