Engine isolators
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls TX
Engine isolators
I have a 2002 road king, I replaced the front engine isolator mount about 500-700 miles ago. My question is, why does my engine not "rock" or "bounce" in the frame anymore. It will bounce upon start up, but is pretty much still on idle. It feels like it's transferring more vibration to my bars. I replaced it with a bike master isolator. I lifted engine. Removed old isolator and installed new one. LOOSLEY put all fasteners back in, and fired up engine to let the isolator find it's own center. Then shut off engine. Can someone help please. Is it just a crappy bike master isolator, or does it sound like something is in a bind.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls TX
I went aftermarket. It's Bike Master brand. I wasn't paying 90 bucks for a piece of plate steel with rubber on it. The old one was blown out. Engine was hitting frame. It sounds weird, but I really like the look of my engine dancing around in the frame at the stop light or idle. I can deal with the extra vibration transferr, but I've noticed I've had fasteners all over the bike vibrating loose. Mainly my highway peg mounts. Something just dosent "feel" rite with it. It's hard to explain. I've comtimated installing the volva ride isolators, but those suckers are REALLY expensive.
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 288
Likes: 3
From: UK
May be too stiff. I have a Drag Specialities moung that i pulled off an FXR that had bad vibes and its 3 times the stiffness of the OEM version B mount that should be on.
If its a clone of the Harley mount one worthwhile check is to probe the rubber with pen or pencil. Apply the same pressure to both the old and new one and it should indent the same. You will be able to tell if its a harder rubber.
If its a clone of the Harley mount one worthwhile check is to probe the rubber with pen or pencil. Apply the same pressure to both the old and new one and it should indent the same. You will be able to tell if its a harder rubber.
Thread Starter
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4th Gear
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls TX
I can tell it's a harder rubber, but shouldn't it have broken in already. I've got about 500-700 miles on it. It's starting to get where I've got to switch on the cruise and get the feeling back in my left hand on a moderate ride. Like maybe 40 miles or so. I want it to do its job. Isolate... Lol. Any suggestions for replacement mounts?
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,610
From: san antonio
Replace it with the Glide Pro front motor mount. I go through at least one front motor support a year on my 107" '02 FLHT. Finally replace it with the Glide Pro mount and really like it. $100, plus shipping but worth it. If you let the price hold you back, your missing out on the solution to your problem. 
http://www.glide-pro.com/glide-pro.html
http://www.glide-pro.com/glide-pro.html
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 288
Likes: 3
From: UK
I can tell it's a harder rubber, but shouldn't it have broken in already. I've got about 500-700 miles on it. It's starting to get where I've got to switch on the cruise and get the feeling back in my left hand on a moderate ride. Like maybe 40 miles or so. I want it to do its job. Isolate... Lol. Any suggestions for replacement mounts?
If they are copies of the HD parts they have been moulded in the wrong rubber compound.
Last edited by 4_stroke; Aug 24, 2014 at 05:10 PM.
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Tourer
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,782
Likes: 2,610
From: san antonio
If the motor is making contact with the frame, you may have installed the mount incorrectly. As others have pointed out, rubber could be to stiff, etc. None of that matters. Replace the mount with the Glide Pro mount, follow instructions and the problem is solved. Jake has an install video on his website so you can't screw up the install. It is a urethane mount with a 1/2" bolt that fits tight to the bushing in the mount; all stainless and high quality; it works.
