My build: 98 FLHRCI
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,066
Likes: 4,567
From: Haslet Texas
If you get one for the down tube it will cool much better as more wind will get to it than the one you are looking at.
The other day I went out in the high 50's to low 60's and when I got home my oil temp was 125 F.
On the hottest day I can get the oil temp up to about 170 F. (unless I'm stuck in traffic).
The other day I went out in the high 50's to low 60's and when I got home my oil temp was 125 F.
On the hottest day I can get the oil temp up to about 170 F. (unless I'm stuck in traffic).
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
so my tuner seems to think the 42mm mikuni is gonna be a restriction. (luckily i have a 45hsr at the ready, borrowed from a buddy in case its needed). upside: he's looking forward to working on an evo again (with a carb!), downside: hes flat out for 3 more weeks.
(i know the vertical oil coolers would probably work better, i just wish they werent so ugly lol)
(i know the vertical oil coolers would probably work better, i just wish they werent so ugly lol)
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 82
Likes: 0
From: The Wet Side of WA
Hey question for ya japser,
In those pics up posted of the fender, Its hard to tell, but does the rear fender bolts mount to the frame or the black bracket that comes off the frame? For the life of me I cant figure out why my fender isnt lining back up right...
In those pics up posted of the fender, Its hard to tell, but does the rear fender bolts mount to the frame or the black bracket that comes off the frame? For the life of me I cant figure out why my fender isnt lining back up right...
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
I'll post dyno sheets once she's tuned. Don't forget a bumped compression almost 2 full points above stock....so I don't know how it would feel without that.....so far tho? She's a beast.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 2,159
From: Ohio
Clatter tamed with the W6?
For referance, got a few more ponies than a 80" but believe it or not a modded CV fed it with no problems and the Mikuni 45 I installed helped slightly in some areas. Point is that if a CV40 can feed a warmed up engine with monitored AFR's, the Mikuni 42 shouldn't be a bottle neck. Let us know how it turns out and would like to know numbers between the 42 and 45
For referance, got a few more ponies than a 80" but believe it or not a modded CV fed it with no problems and the Mikuni 45 I installed helped slightly in some areas. Point is that if a CV40 can feed a warmed up engine with monitored AFR's, the Mikuni 42 shouldn't be a bottle neck. Let us know how it turns out and would like to know numbers between the 42 and 45
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
yea man, valvetrain is quiet as a mouse, except for a bit off gear whine (expected that, pinion gear wasnt replaced (only had 5k miles on it at the time). setting the rivera pushrods .150" (vs .100") in did the trick.
So: electrical gremlin question (note: havent torn into it yet, mostly just reviewing wiring diagrams to figure out where to start)
the dakota digital was functioning perfectly until last week. one day, (assuming during a ride, i didnt notice it until I had stopped for gas), my oil pressure light is on. so is the neutral light (mechanical gauge confirmed 20-25psi OP, and was most definitely in first gear)...on top of that, gas gauge stopped functioning.
now, everything was working, and now these 3 have ceased to function.
the turn signals still function (as well as their respective indicator lights), so I dont *think* i lost a ground...but for the life of me, I cant find a common link between the neutral switch, OP light, and fuel level gauge/lamp
any ideas?
So: electrical gremlin question (note: havent torn into it yet, mostly just reviewing wiring diagrams to figure out where to start)
the dakota digital was functioning perfectly until last week. one day, (assuming during a ride, i didnt notice it until I had stopped for gas), my oil pressure light is on. so is the neutral light (mechanical gauge confirmed 20-25psi OP, and was most definitely in first gear)...on top of that, gas gauge stopped functioning.
now, everything was working, and now these 3 have ceased to function.
the turn signals still function (as well as their respective indicator lights), so I dont *think* i lost a ground...but for the life of me, I cant find a common link between the neutral switch, OP light, and fuel level gauge/lamp
any ideas?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,081
Likes: 2,159
From: Ohio
Strange, each sendor is a dedicated ground with OP being a NC switch and Nuetral a NO switch, fuel gauge is a ground within the float sendor so no way they are tied together. The sendors have to have another ground source which would possibly be a melted wire connector body under the seat and sendor grounds touching a common ground, same connector feeds the dash which could be the 12 volt signal that heated up from a bad connection and melted the connector body and causing the Dakota problem.
Something has to have the different signal grounds joined together, a shorted 12v source can't light the lights because of the light grounds come from the sendors. It is common for a 12v source to search for a ground thru bulbs when losing it's dedicated ground but the senders are not able to go to a ground while running and in gear. Good Luck
Something has to have the different signal grounds joined together, a shorted 12v source can't light the lights because of the light grounds come from the sendors. It is common for a 12v source to search for a ground thru bulbs when losing it's dedicated ground but the senders are not able to go to a ground while running and in gear. Good Luck
Last edited by 1997bagger; Feb 1, 2013 at 07:29 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 675
Likes: 32
From: Massachusetts
Well I might as well give ya the update.
I ran out of time (working too much), so I dropped the bike off with my indy (I trust him) to do my chain conversion, and gave the go ahead for 2 hours labor for diagnostic (or fix?) for my electrical gremlins.
the gas gauge/oil light/neutral light was a combo of things.
gas gauge connector was damaged (my doing, im sure), and vibration caused the connectors to just barely touch, causing a short (a la, no gas gauge). that short back fed through the neutral light (apparently they share a ground)
oil light was simply. Dakota Digital's instructions are utter garbage. with the MCL2002, you can have the OP idiot light, OR the digital pressure readout....not both. I was using a digital sender, so the light was on because of the settings. I decided to keep the idiot light on the dash over a specific pressure reading, since I have a mechanical gauge anyways (I might try to figure out how to get both working, although that'd require using 2 senders (one for the DD, and one for the OEM idiot light), and I dont know where i'd be able to hide the second sender without it looking like crap.
upside: he did it all in less than 2 hours, so i'm getting my bike back tomorrow or wednesday (whenever i have time to pick it up) ready to rock once this weather breaks
now, all I need it a tune
I ran out of time (working too much), so I dropped the bike off with my indy (I trust him) to do my chain conversion, and gave the go ahead for 2 hours labor for diagnostic (or fix?) for my electrical gremlins.
the gas gauge/oil light/neutral light was a combo of things.
gas gauge connector was damaged (my doing, im sure), and vibration caused the connectors to just barely touch, causing a short (a la, no gas gauge). that short back fed through the neutral light (apparently they share a ground)
oil light was simply. Dakota Digital's instructions are utter garbage. with the MCL2002, you can have the OP idiot light, OR the digital pressure readout....not both. I was using a digital sender, so the light was on because of the settings. I decided to keep the idiot light on the dash over a specific pressure reading, since I have a mechanical gauge anyways (I might try to figure out how to get both working, although that'd require using 2 senders (one for the DD, and one for the OEM idiot light), and I dont know where i'd be able to hide the second sender without it looking like crap.
upside: he did it all in less than 2 hours, so i'm getting my bike back tomorrow or wednesday (whenever i have time to pick it up) ready to rock once this weather breaks
now, all I need it a tune
Stage II
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: texas
Well this will likely be a bit long winded. I got my first harley 3 months ago, a 98 FLHRCI (MM efi) that was non-running (knew it had oil pressure issues).
Long story short, I never got the MM efi running quite right (did fix the oil pressure problems though), and made the decision to do a carb conversion. Started small, Dyna2000P ignition module, Mikuni HSR42 carb, a borrowed intake. Installed everything, wired up the new ignition module (I have a hand drawn schematic of the harness I made, if anyone wants it **seeing as the carb harness is obsolete from HD, and hard to find**), and fired her up. All was well with the world again.
Put ~ 1500 miles on the bike over the next few weeks, but always felt that the bike felt a bit anemic (i was spoiled from the get go)...and seeing as it was getting cold, I decided it was time to build my *dream* bike (note: actual dream bike would have been a 100+" S&S, but that was WAY out of the budget...plus I have a thing for taking small engines and making them into monsters... (I had an 05 WRX with a 2.0L engine, putting down almost 450hp @ the wheels *AWD too*)
I'll write up a mod list (to date), and try to put up pictures (when I remember to take them lol).
Harley mod list
98 RKC, converted to carb
Mikuni HSR42 carb, 165main / stock slow jet
D&M Custom Cycle Ultimate Flow Air Cleaner
jugs bored over 0.005" (matches to pistons)
wiseco 10:1 dome top forged pistons
James top end gasket kit
.030" head gaskets
headwork by Bean @ BigBoyzCycles in Augusta, ME. Port/valve job, heads CC'd and matched, manual compression releases
new valve springs (HD Screamin' Eagle, set up for a .585" lift)
Jims lifters
Woods W6 cam
Dyna 2000p ignition module with single fire coil (relocated to motor mount, running FXR wires)
Supertrapp SuperMeg 2:1 exhaust
S.E. Race Brace
barnett extra-plate clutch
barnett heavy-duty clutch spring
S&S reed breather
Dakota Digital MCL2002 gauge (wanted a tach)
Dakota Digital oil pressure and oil temperature senders
WildOne's "Chubby" bagger bars (14")
Memphis Shades batwing fairing
TruckZone Phase7 LED headlight upgrade
(i'll add more, because I'm sure I forgot a bunch up until this point)
The heads should be back in my posession by monday or tuesday, and then i'll start reassembly. Bikes probably going to be trailered up to HighOctane Harley in Billerica, MA (John is gonna do my tuning). I'm hoping for high 80's/low 90's for horsepower, and low to mid 90's for torque (which is definitely achievable)...I've done my best to this point to make this a *bad *** bagger*
a few pictures
the bike, as I got it (sitting in a shed for 5 years)
all cleaned up
heads off to Maine for port work, partial disassembly
the bike as it sits now (although now with bagger bars...found out the regular chubby apes would NOT clear the MS fairing without being rocked back so far that they were uncomfortable)...i'll snap a new pic tomorrow of the new bars...the new brake and clutch lines came in today, so I'll likely be fitting them too
Long story short, I never got the MM efi running quite right (did fix the oil pressure problems though), and made the decision to do a carb conversion. Started small, Dyna2000P ignition module, Mikuni HSR42 carb, a borrowed intake. Installed everything, wired up the new ignition module (I have a hand drawn schematic of the harness I made, if anyone wants it **seeing as the carb harness is obsolete from HD, and hard to find**), and fired her up. All was well with the world again.
Put ~ 1500 miles on the bike over the next few weeks, but always felt that the bike felt a bit anemic (i was spoiled from the get go)...and seeing as it was getting cold, I decided it was time to build my *dream* bike (note: actual dream bike would have been a 100+" S&S, but that was WAY out of the budget...plus I have a thing for taking small engines and making them into monsters... (I had an 05 WRX with a 2.0L engine, putting down almost 450hp @ the wheels *AWD too*)
I'll write up a mod list (to date), and try to put up pictures (when I remember to take them lol).
Harley mod list
98 RKC, converted to carb
Mikuni HSR42 carb, 165main / stock slow jet
D&M Custom Cycle Ultimate Flow Air Cleaner
jugs bored over 0.005" (matches to pistons)
wiseco 10:1 dome top forged pistons
James top end gasket kit
.030" head gaskets
headwork by Bean @ BigBoyzCycles in Augusta, ME. Port/valve job, heads CC'd and matched, manual compression releases
new valve springs (HD Screamin' Eagle, set up for a .585" lift)
Jims lifters
Woods W6 cam
Dyna 2000p ignition module with single fire coil (relocated to motor mount, running FXR wires)
Supertrapp SuperMeg 2:1 exhaust
S.E. Race Brace
barnett extra-plate clutch
barnett heavy-duty clutch spring
S&S reed breather
Dakota Digital MCL2002 gauge (wanted a tach)
Dakota Digital oil pressure and oil temperature senders
WildOne's "Chubby" bagger bars (14")
Memphis Shades batwing fairing
TruckZone Phase7 LED headlight upgrade
(i'll add more, because I'm sure I forgot a bunch up until this point)
The heads should be back in my posession by monday or tuesday, and then i'll start reassembly. Bikes probably going to be trailered up to HighOctane Harley in Billerica, MA (John is gonna do my tuning). I'm hoping for high 80's/low 90's for horsepower, and low to mid 90's for torque (which is definitely achievable)...I've done my best to this point to make this a *bad *** bagger*
a few pictures
the bike, as I got it (sitting in a shed for 5 years)
all cleaned up
heads off to Maine for port work, partial disassembly
the bike as it sits now (although now with bagger bars...found out the regular chubby apes would NOT clear the MS fairing without being rocked back so far that they were uncomfortable)...i'll snap a new pic tomorrow of the new bars...the new brake and clutch lines came in today, so I'll likely be fitting them too
do i need to do anything with the efi harness I just converted from efi to carb and I have the stand alone ignition kit from ultima I can't get it to fire up just keeps turning over🤬