98 Heritage Springer
#1
04-24-2014, 11:35 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
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98 Heritage Springer
Fly-n-Ride (home) San Diego-San Jose on a '98 Heritage Springer that had 14.1K miles when I headed back. Now at about 14.7K
This has been a California bike its whole life. The original evap canister was disconnectred and carb backing plate, filter and hoses were changed out. Solenoid unit was obviously disconnected as well and the female end is just 'hanging'.
Pics of what the carb backing plate looks like...
The two banjo fittings running off the top of each head are connected behind the backing plate to a mesh breather. It is good for misting oil on the rear exhaust
This has been a California bike its whole life. The original evap canister was disconnectred and carb backing plate, filter and hoses were changed out. Solenoid unit was obviously disconnected as well and the female end is just 'hanging'.
Pics of what the carb backing plate looks like...
The two banjo fittings running off the top of each head are connected behind the backing plate to a mesh breather. It is good for misting oil on the rear exhaust
Last edited by panz4ever; 04-25-2014 at 12:08 AM.
#2
04-24-2014, 11:46 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
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Modification...brass T-fitting with a single hose running to?
Do I run the hose on the bottom of the T down the front of the motor or down the rear between the motor and tranny?
This is what the backing plate assembly looks like.
Anyone tell me where it came from?
The shims are steel. Should I be using brass instead for a better seal. I have brass shim stock that I can use to make the shims if it means creating a better seal.
This bike is a cold running beast. Manual says CA jetting is 175/42 and everyone else is 170/42. Since the evap crap is disabled should I change jets?
Do I run the hose on the bottom of the T down the front of the motor or down the rear between the motor and tranny?
This is what the backing plate assembly looks like.
Anyone tell me where it came from?
The shims are steel. Should I be using brass instead for a better seal. I have brass shim stock that I can use to make the shims if it means creating a better seal.
This bike is a cold running beast. Manual says CA jetting is 175/42 and everyone else is 170/42. Since the evap crap is disabled should I change jets?
#3
04-24-2014, 11:53 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Posts: 7,274
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Next question...
The choke will not stay out when I go to start it. Acts like a spring pull in. This obvously does not help on cold starts and makes it difficult to keep running. Once the bike is warmed up staring is no problem. I looked at the factory manual and there is nothing that addresses the issue. Input as to why this is occurring?
And final question (for now). What is the purpose of the vacumn operated fuel valve. The manual talks about theory of operation. Still doesn't say why it is used over the early types and IMHO it just seems like one more part that can fail and leave you stranded by the side of the road half way from nowhere. Have a Pingel on another bike and like it a lot. Thinking about adding one to this. Any issues/problems if I do it since Pingel does not incorporate the vacumn design.
The choke will not stay out when I go to start it. Acts like a spring pull in. This obvously does not help on cold starts and makes it difficult to keep running. Once the bike is warmed up staring is no problem. I looked at the factory manual and there is nothing that addresses the issue. Input as to why this is occurring?
And final question (for now). What is the purpose of the vacumn operated fuel valve. The manual talks about theory of operation. Still doesn't say why it is used over the early types and IMHO it just seems like one more part that can fail and leave you stranded by the side of the road half way from nowhere. Have a Pingel on another bike and like it a lot. Thinking about adding one to this. Any issues/problems if I do it since Pingel does not incorporate the vacumn design.
Last edited by panz4ever; 04-25-2014 at 12:08 AM.
#4
04-25-2014, 06:33 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Safety device for people too dumb to operate a manual valve. I will not run one. They can fail and cause the bike not to run...they can partially fail and cause the bike to run like crap, if the bike has been in storage for long enough for the fuel to evaporate out of the carb...it makes it a pain to start...you have to run the starter long enough to fill the carb...and it makes it a PIA to drain the tank if you do not have a vacuum pump handy. Pingel makes one if you really want it.
#5
04-25-2014, 07:08 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
ok the fuel on off - is vacuum so you cant leave it on, it defaults to off not running
the choke assembly is plastic and if you loose the 11/16 wrench steel nut and screw the center of the out side piece the choke **** sits against clock wise, it tightens it on the shaft of the choke pull -caution the nut will snap the plastic assembly easy so just snug it
jetting - lots of info about jetting and carb mods on the site this will give you some info
http://www.shovelhead.us/pics/sheets/tech_cv_carb.PDF
i install and have for 20 years the Kinsler kit its easy and does a great job - you could put a 45 low speed in the carb it will fix the cold running - some use the 88 sporty pointy needle N 65 C and yes it works, than turn the bottom mix screw out hot running to best idle, together those two mods at a CV carb guru will cost you over a 100 bucks - every thng you do to a CV works as it is a real good unit respons to cam and lifter changes and cam bearing replacement if you do anything that cam bearing should be on a short list of doing they fail and cause all kinds of drama
the air filter you have is not stock it is a 90s thing we seen come and go - the new ones today are internal they let the motor blow directly into the engine as it was in the design - for normal driving like you will be doing your fine with one of those - incresed compression and big cams wants something different --
you could like most just put a hose on the T fitting and run it down and away like an old shovel if you want to for now - letting the oil air vapor spraying on the motor makes a mess and smells --
re looking at your pictures i see some one has replaced the acc pump sprayer with a different one soo mods might be in the carb, picture whats in the top and bottom insides of the carb what they look like, with a drill bit measure the side small hole in the slide, next to the needle and is the spring silver or gold colored might be hard to tell -- jz
the choke assembly is plastic and if you loose the 11/16 wrench steel nut and screw the center of the out side piece the choke **** sits against clock wise, it tightens it on the shaft of the choke pull -caution the nut will snap the plastic assembly easy so just snug it
jetting - lots of info about jetting and carb mods on the site this will give you some info
http://www.shovelhead.us/pics/sheets/tech_cv_carb.PDF
i install and have for 20 years the Kinsler kit its easy and does a great job - you could put a 45 low speed in the carb it will fix the cold running - some use the 88 sporty pointy needle N 65 C and yes it works, than turn the bottom mix screw out hot running to best idle, together those two mods at a CV carb guru will cost you over a 100 bucks - every thng you do to a CV works as it is a real good unit respons to cam and lifter changes and cam bearing replacement if you do anything that cam bearing should be on a short list of doing they fail and cause all kinds of drama
the air filter you have is not stock it is a 90s thing we seen come and go - the new ones today are internal they let the motor blow directly into the engine as it was in the design - for normal driving like you will be doing your fine with one of those - incresed compression and big cams wants something different --
you could like most just put a hose on the T fitting and run it down and away like an old shovel if you want to for now - letting the oil air vapor spraying on the motor makes a mess and smells --
re looking at your pictures i see some one has replaced the acc pump sprayer with a different one soo mods might be in the carb, picture whats in the top and bottom insides of the carb what they look like, with a drill bit measure the side small hole in the slide, next to the needle and is the spring silver or gold colored might be hard to tell -- jz
Last edited by johnjzjz; 04-25-2014 at 07:23 AM.
#6
04-25-2014, 09:03 AM
I have a very similar breather setup on my 94, you don't need brass as there is not that much presure. I know this is a no-no but I drilled a hole in the backing plate and ran the t into the air cleaner.... I have zero mess anywhere, notice no difference in performance and my carb has 25K on it since I touched it, works good and not real dirty.. Loctite the screws, if one comes loose and gets sucked in it's fatal...
You can turn the diaphragm around on that petcock and defeat the vacuum feature...You probably should take it out anyway to check the screen for dirt.
If the exhaust is stock and you have 400bucks, try some Samson slip-ons, huge difference in performance and noise if that's important too ya.. Then rejet and ride...
Nice bike, good luck with it...
Ds,
You can turn the diaphragm around on that petcock and defeat the vacuum feature...You probably should take it out anyway to check the screen for dirt.
If the exhaust is stock and you have 400bucks, try some Samson slip-ons, huge difference in performance and noise if that's important too ya.. Then rejet and ride...
Nice bike, good luck with it...
Ds,
#7
04-25-2014, 09:54 AM
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#9
05-02-2014, 02:19 PM
For the fuel valve you can do this. LIGHTLY loosen the fuel valve so you can turn it around enough to get to the 4 screws. Remove the 4 screws. There will be a diaphram and spring that comes out. Swap these around and this will cause the diaphram to stay open ALL the time. Therefore the valve works like it should. ON/OFF/RES. And the fuel flows freely even when the bike does not run. You must then run a single vacuum line from the intake to the VOES. I then plugged the fitting on the fuel valve with a peice of rubber and epoxy (not needed but I did this anyway). I had the same problem Tom mentioned. Mine had a slight vacuum leak and would sputter when I got on the gas. Been running for years and works like a champ.
There is actually a good write up on this somewhere if you search on it.
Also for the vent question I ran a line behind the motor and it keeps the motor nice and clean. I also did the same on my tranny vent.
There is actually a good write up on this somewhere if you search on it.
Also for the vent question I ran a line behind the motor and it keeps the motor nice and clean. I also did the same on my tranny vent.
Last edited by 2006FLST; 05-02-2014 at 02:23 PM.
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