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All metals warp when heated and cooled and over time they can twist (warp) which can move the top of the cylinder off its true center line. When it is said, that the bottom of the jugs surface need to be trued a machinist will square the bottom mating surface of the jugs to the center line of the cylinder so the piston and rod will travel in a parallel line to the cylinder and crank which will decrease any excessive side load In the rod bearings, positions and rings. Applying an equal force around the circumference of the piston. Which in turn will lower the friction and decrease abnormal wear.
Originally Posted by grbrown
I don't accept that! Skimming a few thou off the bottom of a cylinder isn't going to materially alter the geometry or the action of those components. Scott himself suggested it on a similar thread to this, that using better base gaskets wasn't always the solution, as the cylinder base needed to be made flat. Need-less-to-say I can't find the other thread!
All metals warp when heated and cooled and over time they can twist (warp) which can move the top of the cylinder off its true center line. When it is said, that the bottom of the jugs surface need to be trued a machinist will square the bottom mating surface of the jugs to the center line of the cylinder so the piston and rod will travel in a parallel line to the cylinder and crank which will decrease any excessive side load In the rod bearings, positions and rings. Applying an equal force around the circumference of the piston. Which in turn will lower the friction and decrease abnormal wear.
Sounds like more reason for me to get rid of my evo.
When I had mine apart I was told to stay away from paper base gaskets. The gaskat set I ordered came with metal base gaskets. About 2 years now __ no leaks yet. Not sure I'd go to the trouble if just the base is leaking, I had mine apart for other reasons.
If you use synthetic oil, you can reduce or eliminate it by going with conventional dino oil.
Mine did the same thing when I bought it used, I switched to conventional oil and let the cylinders "grow" from the heat (translation: let the engine warm up till the heads are uncomfortably warm" and no more bubbles.
I every reason to believe I have the stock cylinder base gaskets. YD
Synthetic oil is great stuff but it will find its way through even a very
slightly worn o ring , gasket or oil seal.
If i understand correctly you have noticed oil bubbles at the base gaskets as described , you should check the engine breather system for correct operation as leaks are one thing but air pressure at the base gaskets is not normal .
All metals warp when heated and cooled and over time they can twist (warp) which can move the top of the cylinder off its true center line. When it is said, that the bottom of the jugs surface need to be trued a machinist will square the bottom mating surface of the jugs to the center line of the cylinder so the piston and rod will travel in a parallel line to the cylinder and crank which will decrease any excessive side load In the rod bearings, positions and rings. Applying an equal force around the circumference of the piston. Which in turn will lower the friction and decrease abnormal wear.
I think you guys are saying the same thing... When my engine was rebuilt, the bases of the cylinder jugs were machined as well. This was done when the engine was at 65k miles. Now at 77k and going strong with no leaks...
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