Brake Light Issues - Looking for Options
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Brake Light Issues - Looking for Options
hello all - I'm a recent evo owner (1988 FLHS) and have a couple of brake light issues I'm trying to address: 1) brake light doesn't activate when applying front brake 2) to activate the brake light using the rear brake pedal, I almost need to stand on the pedal and push it almost all the way down 3) when the brake light comes on, it's really not bright enough to be effective. Any thoughts about how I can address all three of these issues would be appreciated. Thanks and have a blessed day. -bob
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,187
Likes: 8
From: Montgomery, AL
I know on mine when the front handle was not working I had to take apart my handlebar control and realign the switch. Watch out though it is very sensitive. 2 Brake pedal have you just tried bleeding the brake? 3 clean lense or some have swapped to led bulbs. Welcome and enjoy your new bagger.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,101
Likes: 7,629
From: Poolville
Never had the front brake issue but did experience the rear. I had to step real hard on the foot ler to activate the break lamp, I found moisture contamination in my foot brake master and the entire rear brake system, over time the top cover can warp allowing moisture in and it gets to the brake light switch. Straighten out the cover, clean the seal, replace the brake like switch and totally flush the system. Make sure you use the right fluid. Even though my ride it's a 98 still called for DOT 5. For the light, once the system is flushed and switch replaced, check voltage in and out of your brake light switch and at your light, if all are good check for a poor ground. I believe the wiring to feed the light go from under the seat and inside the fender well.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
I agree with 98hotrodfatboy, the dim intensity is most likely a dirty or corroded ground wire. Corrosion adds resistance and battery current going through resistance causes the voltage to drop. Check both your wiring and the lamp socket itself. Contacts on the bulb can be freshened up with a bit of sandpaper. Mating contacts inside the socket can be cleaned also, just a tad more difficult.
On a 88 model, you're due to completely flush and replace the brake fluids, front and rear. That and bleeding should fix the rear pressure problem.
On a 88 model, you're due to completely flush and replace the brake fluids, front and rear. That and bleeding should fix the rear pressure problem.
Last edited by SeaZund; Dec 17, 2014 at 09:59 AM.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
- defective or out of adjustment switch - possibly damaged or disconnected wire, so clean connectors etc.
- addressed in posts above, to which I will add possible dirty contacts/connectors, as 1 above.
- again addressed above, also make sure connectors are clean and making good contacts.
- with an old bike, over thirty years old, expect things like this. Inspect wires to the rear light for any damage, as corrosion can get in and degrade conductivity.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,199
Likes: 3,087
From: NW AR
It is also normal for the rear brake not to turn the light on without a good amount of brake pedal. It is a hydraulically operated switch, not mechanical like a car or the front brake. The hydraulic switches do get dirty or go out, so you can consider replacing the switch. Mine went out once. As mentioned, use only DoT5 fluid, not DoT5.1 or anything else.
The rear brake light in a properly working system is plenty bright. So, if your grounds are OK, if the switch is OK and the bulb is OK, the light should be OK. Oh, and the 30 electrical connections between the battery and the bulb. That too. After you check the obvious stuff, take a volt meter and start at the bulb socket and work your way towards the battery, looking for points where the voltage drops. You may have to do that under load (bulb in place).
You also probably need a new front brake switch, unless someone has been in there and mucked it up, or the wires are broke.
Uh, it's also normal for oil to puke out the breather if you let it sit for a month or more. And see the thread on The Dreaded Click. You'll be there eventually anyway.
The rear brake light in a properly working system is plenty bright. So, if your grounds are OK, if the switch is OK and the bulb is OK, the light should be OK. Oh, and the 30 electrical connections between the battery and the bulb. That too. After you check the obvious stuff, take a volt meter and start at the bulb socket and work your way towards the battery, looking for points where the voltage drops. You may have to do that under load (bulb in place).
You also probably need a new front brake switch, unless someone has been in there and mucked it up, or the wires are broke.
Uh, it's also normal for oil to puke out the breather if you let it sit for a month or more. And see the thread on The Dreaded Click. You'll be there eventually anyway.
Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,959
Likes: 2
From: Florida
It is also normal for the rear brake not to turn the light on without a good amount of brake pedal. It is a hydraulically operated switch, not mechanical like a car or the front brake. The hydraulic switches do get dirty or go out, so you can consider replacing the switch. Mine went out once. As mentioned, use only DoT5 fluid, not DoT5.1 or anything else.
The rear brake light in a properly working system is plenty bright. So, if your grounds are OK, if the switch is OK and the bulb is OK, the light should be OK. Oh, and the 30 electrical connections between the battery and the bulb. That too. After you check the obvious stuff, take a volt meter and start at the bulb socket and work your way towards the battery, looking for points where the voltage drops. You may have to do that under load (bulb in place).
You also probably need a new front brake switch, unless someone has been in there and mucked it up, or the wires are broke.
Uh, it's also normal for oil to puke out the breather if you let it sit for a month or more. And see the thread on The Dreaded Click. You'll be there eventually anyway.
The rear brake light in a properly working system is plenty bright. So, if your grounds are OK, if the switch is OK and the bulb is OK, the light should be OK. Oh, and the 30 electrical connections between the battery and the bulb. That too. After you check the obvious stuff, take a volt meter and start at the bulb socket and work your way towards the battery, looking for points where the voltage drops. You may have to do that under load (bulb in place).
You also probably need a new front brake switch, unless someone has been in there and mucked it up, or the wires are broke.
Uh, it's also normal for oil to puke out the breather if you let it sit for a month or more. And see the thread on The Dreaded Click. You'll be there eventually anyway.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
Likes: 5,449
From: la la land jerzey
the front mechanical switch is broken or dirty try cleaning it first
the rear brake switch is shot replace it
the rear brake switch is shot replace it
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
She is now nearly 30 years old and maint/repair of electrical connectors , switches , wires etc. are something you will be dealing with.
Suggestions...
1) identify all switches and clean them out with contact cleaner spray ., follow the directions on the can.
2) look for wire connections that are discolored from heat. These will be obvious as the wires will appear darkened at the connections and the connector blocks themselves will also show a darkened area were heat has occured. Dont try to resurect any heat damaged connectors , you must replace them as a unit and they and there respective parts can be found at any auto parts store.
3) Wires on older bikes ! they can be a bitch as they tend to frey/disconnect inside there outer plastic covering at the harness pivot point at your front end.
The constant turning left/right weakens the harness wires at this pivot point location.
The only test for this is called a " pull test " .
To do this you remove the harness covering at the area were the harness pivots as you turn left/right. Give yourself about a foot of clear wiring at this pivot point.
Use two needle nose pliers , grasp one end of one wire and grasp the other end of same wire and try to pull them apart, if you notice anything other than a solid resistance to your pulling you need to replace that section of wire.
PM me if you have questions .
Suggestions...
1) identify all switches and clean them out with contact cleaner spray ., follow the directions on the can.
2) look for wire connections that are discolored from heat. These will be obvious as the wires will appear darkened at the connections and the connector blocks themselves will also show a darkened area were heat has occured. Dont try to resurect any heat damaged connectors , you must replace them as a unit and they and there respective parts can be found at any auto parts store.
3) Wires on older bikes ! they can be a bitch as they tend to frey/disconnect inside there outer plastic covering at the harness pivot point at your front end.
The constant turning left/right weakens the harness wires at this pivot point location.
The only test for this is called a " pull test " .
To do this you remove the harness covering at the area were the harness pivots as you turn left/right. Give yourself about a foot of clear wiring at this pivot point.
Use two needle nose pliers , grasp one end of one wire and grasp the other end of same wire and try to pull them apart, if you notice anything other than a solid resistance to your pulling you need to replace that section of wire.
PM me if you have questions .
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