What to do before spring......
What to do before spring......
Hey all, for once the 86 is running well for the most part. Starts and goes but doesnt like to idle in cold weather even after she is warm! Just wondering what I should look for (carb) or do a complete rebuild since I dont know the history on the maintinance on the carb and it has been about three years of riding (about 5 to 6 K a year). it is an S&S Super E.
I have been reading some posts about break downs and the thinking that maybe you should get rid of the old EVO.. Here is what I have done to mine so far:
Redundant Relay starter MOD (thanks to this forum)
Replaced Speedometer
Replaced 3 Speedo sending units (issue was gummy speedo)
Replaced two radios due to electrical gremlins (mostly sorted)
Replaced all bulbs in instrument cluster due to faulty Volt. Reg.
Replaced two clutch baskets (cracked
Rebuilt tranmission with new seals, bearings and upgraded mainshaft (splined)
Replaced starter
Replaced starter clutch bearing
That is not including tires, and cosmetic upgrades I made by choice or wear.
I can turn my own wrenches for the most part so that definitly saves cash. 1986 FHTC 80" 86K miles.
I have been reading some posts about break downs and the thinking that maybe you should get rid of the old EVO.. Here is what I have done to mine so far:
Redundant Relay starter MOD (thanks to this forum)
Replaced Speedometer
Replaced 3 Speedo sending units (issue was gummy speedo)
Replaced two radios due to electrical gremlins (mostly sorted)
Replaced all bulbs in instrument cluster due to faulty Volt. Reg.
Replaced two clutch baskets (cracked
Rebuilt tranmission with new seals, bearings and upgraded mainshaft (splined)
Replaced starter
Replaced starter clutch bearing
That is not including tires, and cosmetic upgrades I made by choice or wear.
I can turn my own wrenches for the most part so that definitly saves cash. 1986 FHTC 80" 86K miles.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
Hey all, for once the 86 is running well for the most part. Starts and goes but doesnt like to idle in cold weather even after she is warm! Just wondering what I should look for (carb) or do a complete rebuild since I dont know the history on the maintinance on the carb and it has been about three years of riding (about 5 to 6 K a year). it is an S&S Super E.
I have been reading some posts about break downs and the thinking that maybe you should get rid of the old EVO.. Here is what I have done to mine so far:
Redundant Relay starter MOD (thanks to this forum)
Replaced Speedometer
Replaced 3 Speedo sending units (issue was gummy speedo)
Replaced two radios due to electrical gremlins (mostly sorted)
Replaced all bulbs in instrument cluster due to faulty Volt. Reg.
Replaced two clutch baskets (cracked
Rebuilt tranmission with new seals, bearings and upgraded mainshaft (splined)
Replaced starter
Replaced starter clutch bearing
That is not including tires, and cosmetic upgrades I made by choice or wear.
I can turn my own wrenches for the most part so that definitly saves cash. 1986 FHTC 80" 86K miles.
I have been reading some posts about break downs and the thinking that maybe you should get rid of the old EVO.. Here is what I have done to mine so far:
Redundant Relay starter MOD (thanks to this forum)
Replaced Speedometer
Replaced 3 Speedo sending units (issue was gummy speedo)
Replaced two radios due to electrical gremlins (mostly sorted)
Replaced all bulbs in instrument cluster due to faulty Volt. Reg.
Replaced two clutch baskets (cracked
Rebuilt tranmission with new seals, bearings and upgraded mainshaft (splined)
Replaced starter
Replaced starter clutch bearing
That is not including tires, and cosmetic upgrades I made by choice or wear.
I can turn my own wrenches for the most part so that definitly saves cash. 1986 FHTC 80" 86K miles.
a carb. rebuild for sure as it is way past due. I would also advise a complete motor check/tuneup including all tests advised in your service manual such as compression test etc. intake manifold gasket leaks etc. etc. The old girl sounds like a stout performer and with a little of the above TLC she should keep on keeping on if all is well.
The age and miles dont really matter to a motor as long as it has been maintaned proplerly.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
As well as overhauling your carb I suggest going over the gas tank as well. Drain the fuel then remove the gas tap, to remove any accumulated junk, clean the tap and refit. Inspect the fuel pipe and replace if old, to prevent tiny pieces of rubber getting into the carb.
You may be surprised at what you find in the carb float bowl! It's difficult to believe that it will be clean, that's for sure, so well worth checking. An overhaul kit will come with all the parts you need to do a thorough job when rebuilding it.
You may be surprised at what you find in the carb float bowl! It's difficult to believe that it will be clean, that's for sure, so well worth checking. An overhaul kit will come with all the parts you need to do a thorough job when rebuilding it.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
If not mentioned, manifold o-ring/intake seals also...
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,091
Likes: 7,611
From: Poolville
rebuild kit
If you do decide to rebuild the carburetor make sure you get a kit that had the brass needle and seat the aluminum ones can and will Lead to poor seating problems and overflowing when parked.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 2
From: Carlsbad Springs Ontario
12 points
If not mentioned, manifold o-ring/intake seals also...
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,065
Likes: 4,561
From: Haslet Texas
If not mentioned, manifold o-ring/intake seals also...
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
Switch out those manifold bolts to 12 point. Makes life easier in the long run. This is one example, but a good hardware store will have them. YD
https://www.denniskirk.com/diamond-e...prd/271383.sku
What about these makes life easier?
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Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,725
Likes: 3,070
From: Brighton, MI
With the allen head, (at least on my dyna) I could not turn the bolt enough to allow me to reset the allen wrench for another throw. I did not have enough clearance to basically complete the movement of one flat at a time on the 6 sided internal socket of the allen headed bolt.
With the 12 point, it did not matter, I could keep the bolt moving without having to use a ball end allen at a funky angle and hoping it would work, or cutting a short piece of an allen wrench to fit in a 5/16 box end (because not enough clearance for a ratchet/socket combo).
It was just a PIA getting them off as a socket cap bolt. Would rather spend my time coming up with something that will make my job easier the next time I have to do it.
With the 12 point, the bolt is always turning with each new reset of the wrench. Even if it is a short throw, it is still turning and no "running out of room". One wrench and one movement. No stopping and switching tools to move it a half of a turn and then going back to another style tool to get another half of a flat of movement, then back to the other, etc.
I think I paid 10 bucks at the hardware for my bolts. Well worth it while apart for the first time to switch them out, and especially for the next time they have to come out. YD
With the 12 point, it did not matter, I could keep the bolt moving without having to use a ball end allen at a funky angle and hoping it would work, or cutting a short piece of an allen wrench to fit in a 5/16 box end (because not enough clearance for a ratchet/socket combo).
It was just a PIA getting them off as a socket cap bolt. Would rather spend my time coming up with something that will make my job easier the next time I have to do it.
With the 12 point, the bolt is always turning with each new reset of the wrench. Even if it is a short throw, it is still turning and no "running out of room". One wrench and one movement. No stopping and switching tools to move it a half of a turn and then going back to another style tool to get another half of a flat of movement, then back to the other, etc.
I think I paid 10 bucks at the hardware for my bolts. Well worth it while apart for the first time to switch them out, and especially for the next time they have to come out. YD
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,583
Likes: 115
From: Boston, MA
With the allen head, (at least on my dyna) I could not turn the bolt enough to allow me to reset the allen wrench for another throw. I did not have enough clearance to basically complete the movement of one flat at a time on the 6 sided internal socket of the allen headed bolt.
With the 12 point, it did not matter, I could keep the bolt moving without having to use a ball end allen at a funky angle and hoping it would work, or cutting a short piece of an allen wrench to fit in a 5/16 box end (because not enough clearance for a ratchet/socket combo).
It was just a PIA getting them off as a socket cap bolt. Would rather spend my time coming up with something that will make my job easier the next time I have to do it.
With the 12 point, the bolt is always turning with each new reset of the wrench. Even if it is a short throw, it is still turning and no "running out of room". One wrench and one movement. No stopping and switching tools to move it a half of a turn and then going back to another style tool to get another half of a flat of movement, then back to the other, etc.
I think I paid 10 bucks at the hardware for my bolts. Well worth it while apart for the first time to switch them out, and especially for the next time they have to come out. YD
With the 12 point, it did not matter, I could keep the bolt moving without having to use a ball end allen at a funky angle and hoping it would work, or cutting a short piece of an allen wrench to fit in a 5/16 box end (because not enough clearance for a ratchet/socket combo).
It was just a PIA getting them off as a socket cap bolt. Would rather spend my time coming up with something that will make my job easier the next time I have to do it.
With the 12 point, the bolt is always turning with each new reset of the wrench. Even if it is a short throw, it is still turning and no "running out of room". One wrench and one movement. No stopping and switching tools to move it a half of a turn and then going back to another style tool to get another half of a flat of movement, then back to the other, etc.
I think I paid 10 bucks at the hardware for my bolts. Well worth it while apart for the first time to switch them out, and especially for the next time they have to come out. YD
Tom
I definitly want to do a rebuild, I was also thinking about replacing the intake while I was at it with a non-stock unit. Any suggestions? Motor may have a cam in it but not sure, I am not looking to break the bank either. She already overflows if I leave th fuel on, has since I got her I just shut the fuel off. Rebuild kit is ordered.
Intake ideas (part numbers are great again 1986 FLHTC)?
Intake ideas (part numbers are great again 1986 FLHTC)?
