I've heard alot of talk about how there are problems with the early MM fuel injection and recommendation to convert to carb.

My question, what are the problems ? Or what symptoms do you see and when did they start showing up ?

I have a 98 RKC with 56,000 miles. Stock except for seat and bars.
It runs flawless to date. I've only rebuilt the brake master cylinders.

I ride alot of 1700 mi round trips from Ky to FL to visit family.
After reading here about evo EFI now I'm getting paranoid about break downs,
The one thing that does get to me is the fuel pump humming away for those 24 hr round trips. If that goes out I'm dead in the water.

Thanks

 

Mine runs great , dont look for problems where there aren't any , motorcycle, car , boat if its EFI and it breaks your stranded but im not converting my car to carb or my bike

Let the bashing begin

LOL

Dave

 

So what you are saying is that it ain't broke but you want to fix it????


Man I wouldn't sweat it if I were you.
Sure you could be broke down if the fuel pump went down but there are many things that can leave you on the side of the road.
What are you gonna do if you blow a head gasket?
What are you gonna do if your drive belt brakes?
I could go on and on but why?????


If I remember right the change over is about a grand.

 

Al, stop reading depressing internet websites, there's a good chap, ride on and enjoy! I suspect the vast majority of MM EFI Harley owners don't realise they should be having problems. Also recognise that many cars also have the same brand and no, they ain't breaking down and jamming up the highways either. We have experts in here in the event that you do have problems.

 

By the way, that 95th Anniversary colour scheme is just ace!

 

Yeah. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Thanks ! I'm just going to leave it alone.

 

I'd leave it alone! I have just recently converted my '98 Ultra to carb, but only because the ECM went bad. If the ECM would not have started acting up, I would have left it alone.

 

My 1996 Ultra Classic FI with 83,000 miles still runs great...
Good looking 98 RKC

 

1-COMMON...Two fuel hoses under tank leak after 10 years. Harley $$$$$$$, Goodridge HDFL005 under $160 USA dollars or LESS total for BOTH if you check google .
The Goodridge lines are less than half the price of the Harley parts and are of good quality.
2-COMMON..speedometer LCD (odometer screen bleed). requires replacement when unable to read miles ridden. Requires cutting about 12 wires. NOT PLUG AND PLAY LIKE NEWER ONES. A retrofit kit is available to make it plug and play but you still need to cut about 12 wires.
It is a different manufacturer from the newer ones. If you use another speedometer other than 97-98 then it will need to be a 2003 or older. From 1999 to 2003 it will be a plug style and require splicing to convert. The mileage is not retained in the ECU. Odometers do not re-calibrate.
3-COMMON..Cam position sensor...very difficult starting, lots of cranking but does not catch. A lot of cranking and no start then you wait a second and a quick tap to start button and it starts with very little cranking…look for visible goo (beige) leak under timer cone (right foot) at black wire exit from bottom of cone…You will have plenty of warning…dozens and dozens of difficult starts.
4-CRANK position sensor by oil filter (RARE) but if you use a power commander the signal must be 100%..This is very rare.
5-(MEDIUM COMMON)Tank liner releases at middle section near fuel pump..blocks flow of fuel..loss of power, slow down and piece moves from fuel inlet so bike is OK but then becomes trapped again so cycle repeats.. FREE REPAIR..open gas tank access lid, drain fuel and clean piece out..I would carry the little bit required to remove screw..The book says you need to replace the one time use screws but if you are careful and replace in the same location it will be re-usable at least one time..
6- VERY COMMON...ENGINE TEMPERATURE SENSOR...very common, general rough riding as bike bucks from cold to hot rapidly..$100 part…I have studied this situation and it seems like a cheap resistor with 150 ohm rating could have its leads pushed into the connector plug ends in order to trick the bike into thinking it was warm (emergency bypass).
7- Bikes that are pressure washed or in snow conditions with salt roads or people that added a power commander and destroyed the rubber boot at ECM..GROUNDING PIN ON ECM becomes corroded and requires cleaning.
8-The little chrome cover cap thing with the allen bolt on the starter end will get loose one time and you will chase the rattle a long time until you figure out that under the cover is two 0.15 cent nuts and one is lost.
***-The shift linkage ends SUCK on all harleys and you need to change those yesterday to heim joints look on ebay if on a budget for: Heim Joint Rod End 5/16" with bolts for Harley Davidson as they should be about $10-$15 delivered for both.
****VERY IMPORTANT...THE CAM POSITION SENSOR USES AN INSERT TWIST AND LOCK CONNECTION. MAKE 100% sure it is tight, zip tied and secure and then tie it one more time.. Located at throttle side of frame behind the PAINTED plastic side cover by seat (remove cover) and hidden by the triangle portion of frame..connector is black and about 2 or 3 inches long and the thickness of a fat pencil.
That thing had me scratching my head for a long time trying to chase an intermittant cut-off over bumps. Side of the road frustration thing..Many shops are unable to identify the simple problem while others waste your money by replacing it when it was only loose.
THE PARTS ARE READILY AVAILABLE for this bike with the exception of the gas tank from either the dealer or aftermarket.
I would imagine you have the service book or will get the service book for this bike from Harley for about $50 99483-98 . Finally if needed you get the book read chapter 9. You can review check engine codes with no tools by following a simple sequence.
I would review the fuel lines. If you do NOT have the goodridge lines HDFL005 then I would consider carrying some in your saddle bag. Rarely does a dealer stock the Harley ones.
Consider using regular Dyno oil as the synthetics are too good at locating leaks.
Check the allen bolt at the transmission shift lever. The shift lever that attaches to the transmission spline/shaft. People forget to check that allen/hex bolt and then the splines on the lever get chewed.
Shaft is harder than lever so the lever will strip. But if not serviced then the shaft can become stripped..The lever itself is major labor to remove the outer primary, inner primary, and clutch hub just to replace the lever on that year of bike just because someone did not inspect that allen/hex bolt. A stripped shaft is worse.

 

Forgot...consider avoiding the use of lowering blocks on the rear.
There have been reports of the rear fork/swingarm developing a crack just in front of the axle bolt.
The square metal axle developed a full depth crack.
Each time it was reported, it seemed like lowering blocks were used at some time.