1986 flht
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 8,557
Likes: 3,313
From: Cental, MI
Now might be too late, but, nothing wrong with the '86 Ka-sneeze carb...they work well until the throttle shaft begins to wear...then...not worth the hassel.
My Son has been running his '86 with the stock carb , but Not the stock manifold, and crappy adapters, for a long time now...no problem at all...We will change it when the Need Arises.
My Son has been running his '86 with the stock carb , but Not the stock manifold, and crappy adapters, for a long time now...no problem at all...We will change it when the Need Arises.
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Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 209
Likes: 8
From: Northern Wisconsin
A worn throttle shaft is easy to fix. I own a machine shop and it's nothing to bore and bush the body to fix a worn shaft bore.
The only reason I bought the Super E carb is because one day I was at the Harley dealer to get a carb kit for the Keihin carb on our '89 and the parts man says what you need is a S&S carb - call Ronnie, he's got one. And he gave me Ronnie's phone number. So I called Ronnie and went and bought it, then looked at it and figured out the air cleaner wouldn't fit anyway. So I never bothered putting it on and fixed the Keihin.
There's actually nothing wrong with those so-called compliance fittings either. Lots of engines other than Evo's have used them for years with no problems. If you pay attention to the torque spec and don't over-tighten them so they warp, they last until the rubber ages and starts to crack and creates leaks. And you can replace 'em for like $15 bucks. They're no more problematic in my experience than those o-rings and flanges they used on the later engines. I've seen plenty of those leak too.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,896
From: Bedford UK
That's a great idea! Lovely bike, lovely thought.
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,059
Likes: 4,534
From: Haslet Texas
Oh, I agree. Our '89 FLHTC has 90,000 miles on it. It has a Keihin butterfly carb on it and runs fine. The only problem with the Keihin carb is that the accelerator pump don't have enough volume right off idle so they tend to go lean with a quick throttle opening from fully closed. It amazes me nobody ever made a different cam for the accelerator pump rod to increase its volume during the first part of the throttle opening to fix that.
A worn throttle shaft is easy to fix. I own a machine shop and it's nothing to bore and bush the body to fix a worn shaft bore.
The only reason I bought the Super E carb is because one day I was at the Harley dealer to get a carb kit for the Keihin carb on our '89 and the parts man says what you need is a S&S carb - call Ronnie, he's got one. And he gave me Ronnie's phone number. So I called Ronnie and went and bought it, then looked at it and figured out the air cleaner wouldn't fit anyway. So I never bothered putting it on and fixed the Keihin.
There's actually nothing wrong with those so-called compliance fittings either. Lots of engines other than Evo's have used them for years with no problems. If you pay attention to the torque spec and don't over-tighten them so they warp, they last until the rubber ages and starts to crack and creates leaks. And you can replace 'em for like $15 bucks. They're no more problematic in my experience than those o-rings and flanges they used on the later engines. I've seen plenty of those leak too.
A worn throttle shaft is easy to fix. I own a machine shop and it's nothing to bore and bush the body to fix a worn shaft bore.
The only reason I bought the Super E carb is because one day I was at the Harley dealer to get a carb kit for the Keihin carb on our '89 and the parts man says what you need is a S&S carb - call Ronnie, he's got one. And he gave me Ronnie's phone number. So I called Ronnie and went and bought it, then looked at it and figured out the air cleaner wouldn't fit anyway. So I never bothered putting it on and fixed the Keihin.
There's actually nothing wrong with those so-called compliance fittings either. Lots of engines other than Evo's have used them for years with no problems. If you pay attention to the torque spec and don't over-tighten them so they warp, they last until the rubber ages and starts to crack and creates leaks. And you can replace 'em for like $15 bucks. They're no more problematic in my experience than those o-rings and flanges they used on the later engines. I've seen plenty of those leak too.
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