Speedometer
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Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 69
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From: Alaska
I have no personal experience with them, but my factoid database says:
http://www.scottspeedometer.com/ repairs HD speedos.
However, any speedo repair place should be able to do it. It is a plain mechanical unit.
http://www.scottspeedometer.com/ repairs HD speedos.
However, any speedo repair place should be able to do it. It is a plain mechanical unit.
Here is Carl's reply,
"No sorry it cannot be repaired, Japan made and no parts
were ever available to purchase, designed to be replaced
and not repaired."
Dirt don't hurt
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 21,059
Likes: 4,534
From: Haslet Texas
Damn that sucks!!!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 3,016
From: Brighton, MI
I have taken about 4 of them apart in the past. There are a few threads on how to do it, but you basically slowly with a small flat blade screwdriver bend or in other words "lift" the stainless steel ring (from the back) away from the housing in multiple stages or degrees of lifting. Gradually lifting more and more.
It is a long process and you do it in stages, lifting the pressed portion of the ring from the back only a little, going completely around, then repeat lifting a little more, then switch to a little larger of a flat blade screwdriver lifting even more completely around etc. Repeat and repeat again and again, around and around.
Do this multiple times till the ring is lifted away enough to be able to eventually pull it off the housing. Again, it is a long process and you need to go in slow steps not trying to lift to much of the metal ring at once or you will tear the stainless steel. You also do not want to push the screwdriver in too far or you will put dimples or raised nubs in the stainless ring where it can be seen. Watch your hands because the stainless is thin and can cut you, and it is not uncommon for the screwdriver to "slip" and stab you in the other hand (fun, fun). Once you think it is lifted or "open" enough, try to wiggle the ring back and forth and pushing the ring to one side till you can lift it off on one side. It is not uncommon to think it is pryed open enough to remove the ring, only to discover you need to pry around the entire ring a few more times.
I like to wrap some electrical tape around the gauge housing where the shaft of the screwdriver rubs while prying on the lip so you don't scuff up the housing and accidently scratch/remove the plating.
Once the ring is off you can pull things apart and see what is going on. I had one that I took apart to clean the glass (those old gauges always get water spots on the inside of the glass) and a week later the trip odometer mechanism started acting up. The screw that attaches it to the speedo internals came out. So I had to do it all over again, and Loctite is now on that screw.
Crimping the ring back on is pretty easy. After you have made repairs or cleaned your glass of water spots, you put it all back together by hand being careful not to get fingerprints on the inside of the glass, then I lay the gauge on a piece of rubber, cloth, or leather face down (so I don't scratch the trim ring face) and bend back the stainless ring. I bend it at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00, then 9:00 using a 1/4 inch wood dowel. You are bending it back from the outside edge towards the housing of the gauge, trying to tighten the ring up against the housing itself. In other words, you want some tension to pinch or squeeze everything back together (you have a rubber gasket between the glass and the lip on the housing that forms a seal). You want to pinch it somewhat tight.
I then use a drill press with about a 5/16 inch bit put in backwards in the drill press chuck, and again with a piece of leather on my drill press table to protect the face of the gauge, I use the press feed handle to lower the backwards bit and "press" the lip back down. I do this again at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00 and 9:00 spreading out further and further around the ring till it is all pressed down flat and flush like before I took it apart.
Probably takes about 3 hours start to finish to remove, clean lens (or repair whatever), and reassemble. After the stainless ring is installed and back in place I brush on a little silver paint where the stainless ring meets the housing to help seal it and prevent any rust from where using the screwdriver to pry the ring multiple times has removed the zinc chromate plating (or whatever plating it is on the outside of the gauge housing).
Also there is one or two "vent" holes in the back of the gauge. I guess to let any condensation evaporate. It is also a nice access point for spiders so tape a little fine screen or something to prevent spiders from crawling in the gauge. Don't seal the hole, you need to let the gauge breath.
Don't touch the face of the gauge (the printed part of the gauge) as your finger prints will remain and the paint on the gauge is very sensitive to cleaners (it can lift the paint if you try to clean it). A fine artists brush will work for dust and debris.
The same process works for the same era tachs as well.
Again, they can be taken apart if you want to take the time to do it. May be easier to just fleabay another one. Good luck, YD
It is a long process and you do it in stages, lifting the pressed portion of the ring from the back only a little, going completely around, then repeat lifting a little more, then switch to a little larger of a flat blade screwdriver lifting even more completely around etc. Repeat and repeat again and again, around and around.
Do this multiple times till the ring is lifted away enough to be able to eventually pull it off the housing. Again, it is a long process and you need to go in slow steps not trying to lift to much of the metal ring at once or you will tear the stainless steel. You also do not want to push the screwdriver in too far or you will put dimples or raised nubs in the stainless ring where it can be seen. Watch your hands because the stainless is thin and can cut you, and it is not uncommon for the screwdriver to "slip" and stab you in the other hand (fun, fun). Once you think it is lifted or "open" enough, try to wiggle the ring back and forth and pushing the ring to one side till you can lift it off on one side. It is not uncommon to think it is pryed open enough to remove the ring, only to discover you need to pry around the entire ring a few more times.
I like to wrap some electrical tape around the gauge housing where the shaft of the screwdriver rubs while prying on the lip so you don't scuff up the housing and accidently scratch/remove the plating.
Once the ring is off you can pull things apart and see what is going on. I had one that I took apart to clean the glass (those old gauges always get water spots on the inside of the glass) and a week later the trip odometer mechanism started acting up. The screw that attaches it to the speedo internals came out. So I had to do it all over again, and Loctite is now on that screw.
Crimping the ring back on is pretty easy. After you have made repairs or cleaned your glass of water spots, you put it all back together by hand being careful not to get fingerprints on the inside of the glass, then I lay the gauge on a piece of rubber, cloth, or leather face down (so I don't scratch the trim ring face) and bend back the stainless ring. I bend it at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00, then 9:00 using a 1/4 inch wood dowel. You are bending it back from the outside edge towards the housing of the gauge, trying to tighten the ring up against the housing itself. In other words, you want some tension to pinch or squeeze everything back together (you have a rubber gasket between the glass and the lip on the housing that forms a seal). You want to pinch it somewhat tight.
I then use a drill press with about a 5/16 inch bit put in backwards in the drill press chuck, and again with a piece of leather on my drill press table to protect the face of the gauge, I use the press feed handle to lower the backwards bit and "press" the lip back down. I do this again at 12:00, 6:00, 3:00 and 9:00 spreading out further and further around the ring till it is all pressed down flat and flush like before I took it apart.
Probably takes about 3 hours start to finish to remove, clean lens (or repair whatever), and reassemble. After the stainless ring is installed and back in place I brush on a little silver paint where the stainless ring meets the housing to help seal it and prevent any rust from where using the screwdriver to pry the ring multiple times has removed the zinc chromate plating (or whatever plating it is on the outside of the gauge housing).
Also there is one or two "vent" holes in the back of the gauge. I guess to let any condensation evaporate. It is also a nice access point for spiders so tape a little fine screen or something to prevent spiders from crawling in the gauge. Don't seal the hole, you need to let the gauge breath.
Don't touch the face of the gauge (the printed part of the gauge) as your finger prints will remain and the paint on the gauge is very sensitive to cleaners (it can lift the paint if you try to clean it). A fine artists brush will work for dust and debris.
The same process works for the same era tachs as well.
Again, they can be taken apart if you want to take the time to do it. May be easier to just fleabay another one. Good luck, YD
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